bmr4life

Yes, its a 2005 mustang. I plan on doing the big three asap, but the alternator is tough to get to. It actually already has 4 gauge wire going to it so I was hoping I could get away with just doing the 2 negative cables. Anyone have any more advice? Also, what stores sell welding cable? I plan on picking some up tomorrow. Thank you

I already have an Optima Red Top and alternator was replaced last year. Will the Big 3 upgrade help my problem? System is SAX100.4 and JBL 1200.1 0 gauge for power and ground.

Are the Sub Out RCA's controlled by the subsonic filter built in the amp? Or are they purely non adjustable pass throughs? Thanks

One more time, what are the big three and is 4 gauge enough for that?

My amp is a SAX-100.4 and will be running in 2 ohm stereo so 160 watts per channel. Can 18 gauge handle that?

My HU has Front and Rear RCA outputs. If running front stage only, should I combine the front and rear outputs going to my external amp with a Y-adapter or should I just use the front RCA's alone?

It'd be nice to have a law like that here in Atlanta. I'd prefer for it to have hours of operation though. Like 10pm to 10am, you can get a ticket for it. I hate being in bed at night with some idiot either coming in or going out of my apartment complex BLASTING there stereo. Most of them sound like ass, but there are a couple that will shake the entire complex.

Yeah the more I thought about it, the less I wanted a HDD because I would then need to make a place for it to sit. And they break and generate heat. Moving parts in a moving vehicle isn't the best for a spinning harddrive.

Stick to a thumb drive. Using a actual harddrive is a bad idea. Moving parts and power requirements will be a problem. Also, I don't see why you have to have all of your 10gigs of music in the car at all times. I have well over 100GB and I only have a couple cds in my car at any given time (roughly 2gb of music).

oh ok, thanks. you still have a link to the stuff you did read?

Amp is from 2001-02. There was a mod for it put out more power. I can't find it anywhere. Thanks

# CH 1 & 2 Variable HP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB # CH 1 & 2 Variable LP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB # CH 3 & 4 Variable HP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB # CH 3 & 4 Variable LP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB # 10 Hz - 500 Hz variable subsonic filter (CH 1&2 and CH 3&4) # Subsonic filter allows for band-passed crossover configuration How can it not do bandpass? If someone wanted to run a bandpass between 60-300hz... u can do it with this amp. I plan on buying this amp because it can bandpass. I just bought a b-stock one from dbr for $250. Thanks to everyone that helped out in this thread.

Just bought a b-stock refurb SAX100.4 from dbr for $250. Thanks for posting about that.

Thanks for the response. My car came with 6x8s and 8s in the doors. I replaced the 6x8s with some Infinity 682.7's. I actually like them a lot. I guess I could just get an external 3 way cross over and a lowerend 4 channel amp. I didn't want to replace the stock 8s just to save some cash.

I'm in need of either a 2 or 4 channel amp to drive my 6x8s and 8" midbass speakers. I'm only used to mono sub amps so this question may seem silly. My concern is I want to set a High and low crossover for the midbass. A range like 80 to 250hz while the 6x8's play 250hz and up. A) Do 4 channel amps allow you to set a high and low x-over at the same time? B) Can I just use a 2 Channel amp and buy passive crossovers that will send 80-250hz to the midbass and 250hz and up to the 6x8s?

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Ite...A465&tp=115 Link to the amp. I need an 4 channel amp that is 2 ohm stable and has variable cross overs. My fronts are Infinity 682.7s with stock 8" midbass in the doors. No rear speakers. I'm actually happy with the sound using my HU to power the 6x8s, but it is starting to die since the speakers are 2 ohm and the HU is not 2 ohm stable. I also want to be able to control the cross over points of my midbass speakers better.

So where are those going to be put? In a house?

I'll take my fast and quiet mustang over a slow and loud SUV any day. But we all have our own opinions.

Alright, I've been doing measurements and hand drawings feverishly all yesterday. Some measurements are set and some can be modified. The box can be 40" wide and 15" tall. Those are the maxes. Depth is changeable, but I've been thinking of doing around 12". I am planning to do a square port, 5.5" x 5.5" pointing up out the top of the box through my open 6x8 rear deck hole. The sub will face the rear of the car. Here is a nice picture showing something similar to my idea for the square port.

I see the recommending tuning is from 27-33hz. How do those number compare? Is 27hz going to loose a lot of top end compared to 33hz? Does tuning on the lower end of the range actually gain a noticeable amount of deep bass production>

Can I get away with using a single 4 inch port for my Icon 12? I don't have enough room to get 2 ports in due to the length. Lets assume the box is 3 cubes after sub displacement. Can be made smaller if that is optimal.

I already have the box 1 inch away from the bottom of the deck. Thanks for the idea though. I didn't' realize people don't bend their ports.

what does DBR stand for?

Are 2" in ports big enough?

Total internal volume BEFORE port displacement, bracing, but including sub displacement is 2.69 cubes. Thats using 15 for X and 12 for Y. I want it tuned as low as an Icon 12 could possibly be. Some like 28-30Hz if possible.