creyc

A friend has some subs that suffered a poor recone job by their previous owner. There are gaps (air leaks) around the surround that I want to seal. It looks easy enough to do from the back, just peeling back the surround and dropping a bead of glue in. The question is what kind of glue do I use, and possibly more important, where can I find it? The only glues I actually have already are CA-based "super glue", various "goop" products, and 2-part epoxy glues. I want to buy the right glue for the job however if there's something better I can use. I also need to glue the dustcover, which is peeling off.

To whomever said 25 feet is a fairly long distance away, I promise you it is not. I even know people who have been ticketed for this with complete bone-stock audio system of their cars! It's amazingly easy, actually. Take 25 steps away from you car and see if you can hear your music at normal listening levels. Especially with the florida heat and a broken air conditioner... I hate hearing other peoples nasty music so on this side I agree with the law. I just think it's quite a bit too harsh, it's unreasonable and gives cops way too much power. They're no longer looking out for the publics best interest, they're just inventing new ways to make it legal for a cop to pull you over for another BS reason.

kinda exciting, actually! I hope you guys get some dealers in the Tampa FL area

NVM, I found it! Stereo Integrity, of course!

Who makes the BM's?

If your battery bank is in the back by your amplifiers (I'm assuming) then why 3 runs of 1/0 to the front? Just for charging? Seems silly to run so much wire to the front since your amps and batts are all in the back. At any rate, one run of 1/0 power wire should be sufficient to carry the current from your alt to charge the bank in the back. I wouldn't fuse this at 500A, since even under full load your amps should be pulling power from your (closer) battery bank in the back. Now with a H/O, or multiple alternators or multiple batteries up front, this all changes. I would personally leave the front battery almost alone, for the rest of the cars electrical needs.

No such thing, as long as it's tuned correctly. I would say it's "too big" when its so long it can no longer fit in your application/car.

After trying, I must say its very very hard trying to fit 10's up front! On the positive side, these things would probably sound wonderful in my truck if I can fit them. I have a few frankenstien-ish ideas

From what i understand, localization wouldnt be any worse, assuming you leave your 8 playing only as high as it does now. (albeit w/ a highpass in place where you mentioned) Woulnd't you just extend the low bass performance? I suppose it depends how well you blend them...

I have an RE SE12 sub that needs a recone. How much would a recone be and who do I get in contact with? Shipping zipcode is 34695

If you get good ring crimps, and correctly crimp them onto the wire i would NOT suggest soldering. Copper on copper is actually a better conductor than solder, not to mention it's silly to rely on solder for structural/mechanical purposes. (it's not meant to!) So if it conducts worse than copper crimps, and shouldn't be relied on for mechanically holding the terminal to the wire, what is the use? It's a somewhat controversial topic (though I don't know why) but when you add in the fact that most people will solder it incorrectly anyways, it's actually a no-brainer. But DO find a good solid place for your ground, and get to bare metal. Use one bolt, as large as will fit through the hole in your ring terminal and make sure it's tight. Just remember if your ground fails, your amp fry. That should motivate you.

I suggest trying a new set of RCA's. With the head deck pulled out, just plug into the back of the deck then into the amps and see if it's any different. You changed the amp, you changed the head deck. Anything beyond the signal side (electrical, etc.) won't affect where the gains are set to, so you can rule that out. The only thing it doesn't sound like you've changed are the RCAs. Also try pulling power from the head deck, or just resetting it to factory defaults. Sometimes settings will get wacked and you'll have mute or some strange EQ'ing. Finally make sure the amp settings are correct. A subsonic filter set too high will cause a similar problem, likewise a LPF set too low. Good luck

I dug up a pair of old (but perfectly functional!) Peerless 831759 drivers today. They're 10", 4 ohms and fairly shallow. I'm going to build a dummy box for them to see if I should consider using them. Fs: 22.4Hz Qts: 0.27 Vas: 121.9 L Pe: 220 W Sens: 91.5 (@ ??) Xmax: (+/-)7.5 mm I noticed this driver, although discontinued, is popular among bass guitar cabinet DIY projects. Well they're free and I have two so I'll experiment!

Using some paper-napkin calculations, here's why: Assume you're getting 3000 Watts, and assume it's about 80% efficient. That means with power loss through heat, we're talking about 3800 W, or 280 Amps at 13.5 Volts. As JimJ said, fuses are by no means accurate, not to mention they type we use (if I remember correctly) are slow-blow type. Periodic current draw of 280A might make it through your 250A fuse, but give it some time and it will fatigue and blow. Larger fuse needed. 1/0 awg wire can be fused up to around 325A

12" midbasses in doors! Would sounds in the 50-90Hz range necessarily be directional? I'm hoping my new subwoofer box design will take care of this range at least to 80, but if not I'll need to plan accordingly with the midbasses. Any reason you question their performance in an IB, JimJ? What would the ideal enclosure be? I'm trying to get creative here as far as where and how to modify my truck to accommodate.

A true "subwoofer" by terms of which frequencies it's responsible for reproducing gets fairly inefficient when you go that small. Midbass drivers are a different story and depending on how space available, you can sometimes fit larger midbass drivers than subs because the lack of a massive motor structure or deep mounting depth commonly found on subs.

Friends don't let friends buy CCA!

What makes those drivers capable of playing so high? The T/S properties don't look to different from many 'smaller' subs I've looked at before. I suppose personal experience is difficult to argue though! As far as pro audio drivers, if I were looking in the 10-12" space what should I be looking for to narrow down my choices? Higher Fs around 30+? Low Qts? Something different altogether? Thanks!

From the first post in this thread I was going to ask if you're sure its actually bottoming and not distorting or clipping by any chance? Setting gains with a multimeter can get you in the ballpark, but because you have no idea how much any specific amp puts out without benching it, I find it better to just go by ear when adjusting gains.

Too much midbass? Not in a car. I'm much more familiar in the pro-audio/hi-fi/headphone territory and midbass must just be easier to achieve. Obviously running subs up to 120Hz would sound terrible. This isn't my intention at all. I like what ANeonRider mentioned, but instead of a full-on SQ setup I am willing to trade some overall fidelity for increased output. I want to get as close as possible with the speakers/enclosure but I will probably pass on the crazy EQ'ing, at least for now. 8" peerless SLS sounds interesting, but with the intentions of keeping up with two 15's Havocs, and starting at 36Hz, I wonder if I should be looking at something larger.

Wow you get all the cool wrecks huh! No wimpy "fire lane" parked accords for you That looks like a very interesting job. The mustang story was pretty chilling..

I'm wondering if anyone has positive experience or success running or a two-way subwoofer for the task of LSQ. I know two-way subwoofer systems aren't popular, at least today, but with enough planning I don't see why someone couldn't take advantage of multiple drivers to split the task of subwoofer duties and make tremendous gains in output without investing in a power plant of amplifiers to drive a single woofer to frequencies it simply isn't efficient at. Putting it into practice, achieving low bass (lets say 45-80Hz) is fairly difficult to achieve with my equipment in my car. But getting sub-bass, 15-40Hz isn't much trouble for me. Now rather than sacrifice on the 15-40Hz sub-bass region to gain some "upper" bass, why not find equipment which performs best in the area lacking? Perhaps something with a higher Fs and suitable Qts, maybe a pro-audio (sub)woofer? Now some will say it's all in the midbass drivers but I disagree. There is a distinct lack in output above 40Hz, far below the range most midbass drivers should work at. Heck, in the realm of pro sound this is where most subwoofers begin, not end as in my case. Of course to manage 100-200Hz proper midbass selection is crucial, thats really another topic in itself.

Please don't wall it. Especially if you're uncomfortable with the procedure, which you admitted yourself. 110v is a lot of power, and it you're not careful it could be the last burp you hear. Audio-Neon had a good recommendation on a much safer way to break the sub in.

Pretty cool deal, although $175 is what I paid for my HC1800 new locally anyways. Shipping will always be a bummer on heavy batteries!

I'm cheap and subscribe to the line of thinking that if you know what you're doing, wire is wire. I refuse to pay a premium for a fancy color or insulation material on an otherwise normal chunk of welding cable. To this end, I went down to my local welding supply shop and picked up enough 1/0 awg silver plated copper welding cable to run both amps in my truck for $30 out the door. Sure, it's 'ugly' black and wouldn't win in the show department, but it carries a LOT of current, is actually quite flexible, and was cheap. Make sure if you go the welding cable route you look at the cable first before buying. Silver plated copper is best, solid copper second best. Don't buy aluminum conductor power wire. Also pay attention to how many strands and how flexible the wire is. The more the strands, the more flexible and easier it will be to install. Also, welding cables sometimes have nifty chemical resistant insulations which are probably a fair bit safer than those candy-coloured decorative insulations used on CA wire, especially if you're running the wire underneath the vehicle or exposed to the elements in any way.