master_jbb3

Also did you put the use of wire into consideration? Wiring 3 amps vs Wiring 1 amp

Good detective logic there. But again I think it's the wrong way to approach the problem. Why get 3 amps when you can get one to put power to all 3 subs? (Like a Sundown 3000D) I would have to agree with that. Your best bet would be to buy a refurbed sundown 3000d instead of buyin 3 amps for 900. I would hold out and get the money up to buy an amp to power all 3 instead of buyin 1 and buyin the rest later. You'll appreciate it more

lol damn looks like you did what I did when i ordered my Q 15. He'll respond and change it for you cause I contacted him asking him to change mines from dual 1 to dual 2 and it was 3 day's into processing. He replied after like 2 more days and said he could change it. More then likely though the expected shipping date that was provided will change because I got mines like a week later then what the original said due to last minute changes

ok thanks

ok thanks just needed a second opinion b4 I act on it. Yea I'm make sure I have my gains set right

it's about a 60 dollar price difference.

Yea I've looked at the sundown amps. Don't have the money for them at the moment. I may consider them later on down the line for and upgrade

o and pezza I just re-read your post. The 1400opti only produces 1000w rms at 1ohm, and the 2000opti produces like 1600w rms at 1ohm. So basically it's either picking 1000w (1400opti) or 1300w-1500w (2000opti)

thanks for replying pezza. Yea thats what I was thinking but I know I have stock electrical right now. And I don't think the 2000 will be pushing the 1600 rms that they state it produces at 1ohm maybe like 1500 or less. And the 1400 will be about 900watts

Ok I'm picking between the lanzer opti 2000 or 1400. Based on the specs at a 1ohm load with the 2000 I would be getting around 1600 watts "give or take" running to the sub right? With the 1400 the max is about 1300 but I would expect like 1000 or a little around 1000 like 900 something at 1ohm. Which one would u guys pick between the 2? Just for reminder I have the Fi Q 15 with bp option Man reason I'm asking is I don't wanna over power my sub.

make sure you get the bp option if your gonna do 1ohm with that amp

it's kinda hard to describe. It will sound like the subwoofer is bottoming out and the bass won't be clean or normal

1. turn gain all the way down 2. turn radio up to about 75% 3. slowly raise gain till the sub starts clipping 4. then back off of the gain until the clipping stops

are you talkin bout this? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/in...-box-calculator

Got the sub switched to dual 2 and have it at the house.

ok I emailed fi about trying to change to dual 2 instead of 1. I might be too late though being thats it's like 3 days into process and its expected to be here around the 3rd. The price range I'm working with is around 400.

Hey finally making some progress and decided to get the Q instead of BTL which will be here on the 3rd. Just wondering whats a good amp to power it at around 1000w-1500w at a 2ohm load. Also what are some good .5ohm stable amps out there and about how many watts would I be looking at running it at .5 instead of 2ohm Plan on going with around a 3cu ported box tuned at around 32hz to go in a 03 honda civic coupe. (If this information helps)

lol must be busy. I've not only not recieve one here but I tried poundthatsound.com's email and didn't get anything yet

what up. I sent you a message thumpper and I went to the site and emailed get back to me when your able to

What ever fits in your car dude get it, I on the other hand I have to get the 15 because my trunk is a b!tch. But I would definitely spend the extra 30 bucks to get the 18''. Have fun I still have to pay off a ticket, new registration, and get some new 600 dollar rotors.(costly labor work) until I get my sub. Enjoy! lol damn we sound like we're in the same boat wit different situations. My damn right upper engine mount has cracked which I believe it's been cracked since I bought it and just got worst so now I gotta replace that. But it still shouldn't hold me back too much

well I'm happy as hell that their finally here. But damn I was plannin on gettin the 15 fully loaded but as much as that chit cost now I mines well get the 18 cause it's only a few more dollars now

lol must sucks havin some of the best subs out there lot of pressure. I can't wait till the site is updated

ok trying new tweaks that I did. Let me know if this is right for a fully loaded 15" btl. I'm gonna just do a print screen of what they have:

can someone tweak these settings for me so I can send this out plz?

ok. I was wanting to get a box built and shipped from woodlawn cabinetry. Here's the exact info that I have filled in and based on what you see what should I change to get the right box built for my car. I mean I'm walkin into this pretty much blind so I don't know what to look for at all. Install Area ( Maximum Dimensions W x H x D ) - 35" x 16" x 16" Subwoofer Name, Model and Size - Fi BTL 15 Fully Loaded Number of Subwoofers - 1 Separate or Common Chamber - Common Chamber Enclosure Type ( Sealed or Ported ) - Ported Cu.ft. Volume Per Sub (s) - Port Type ( Round or Slot ) - Slot Port Size Required ( Sq.In. Area) - 2.5" x 14.5" x 42.4375 Port Tuning Frequency - 32Hz Amp/ Wattage - Rockford Fosgate T20001BD/ 2000w Zip Code ( To Quote Shipping Cost ) - 28209 Vehicle Type, Year, Make, Model - 2003 Honda Civic Ex