hiloracerboy84

holy crap - 400 a month for insurance on a 2k truck?

i'd imagine since you're onboard, jake would take care of you, or you'd send it in to db-r. why not run multiple 100.4's?

you could just go w/ 2 4ch amps i guess..or go active up front, and run a small amp for passive in the rear...idk

i dont see why not, but you'd lose a lot of the adjustability fading/balance wise to get good imaging, which is part of the reason to go active in the first place

whats the total dimensions on the box? port size/area? port length? i thought i could fit 18's but i want to be totally sure before i buy. (i dont have the vehicle with me at the moment)

why wouldn't they be around 40lbs? you asked a question and people gave an answer. my bl 12's were pretty heavy (around 40 i think), so i could imagine the ib3 15's would possibly be in that range also (i dont know a whole lot about the motor) running 2 15's IB wouldn't be too much of a weight issue i think ...and if you think they weight 20lbs each anyway, why are you concerned about weight...thats like a load of groceries.

reg clamps and 90 degree clamps. you gotta wait for the glue to dry before messing with the other panels so like spy said, be patient. you could use brad nails since they're not as obvious as screws, and fill in the holes w/ wood patch/bondo. whats the reason for the screwless box?

???. all the hifonics amps i've owned had fuses on em. the bxi1606 i have sitting on the floor next to me has 2 80a maxi's on it. i dont think my saz3000d is "dumb" for not having a fuse on it

all those hifonics are overrated. i'd rather buy an underrated amp with top notch build quality and excellent customer service than an overrated cheap-o amp w/ high thd and crappy power i think a bl 15d2 and sae1200 would make you happy

the bl has the potential to get louder, but i would go w/ at least a 1200 sundown if going the bl route

if you're fused at the front batt, then i dont see a need for the fuse back there. you just need a fuse before the amp because its not internally fused. the 12" thing close to the amp is more for if youre running an extra batt in the back and wire straight from it to the amp.

i think a sundown sub/amp combo should suit you. is this mainly for comp or daily? mid-high 140's at 50hz is totally different from similar numbers at <40hz.

fi recommends 5-10ft^3. go somewhere in there. tuning will depend on what you want out of it. port displacement cant be figured out w/o tuning, box size, or port area...so go figure those out first. how much space do you have/are willing to give up?

alright! when im home in march, i definitely want to hear this thing! (i knew your sn looked familiar, and sky just confirmed a lil while ago on hca)

inverted mount?

as for the "glowing" look, im not totally sure, but etching, or even going to a sign shop, and asking for etch type vinyl should refract the light and make that part stand out...just shoot the light from the side, and it should show up while the rest stays clear.

haha, it took me a bunch of tries and fiddling w/ the table saw to be able to bend the mdf nicely...still haven't used it on a box yet though. thumperr - what's the inside/outside measurements of the kerf? - so i can figure out cuts/inch to get that sort of look

i think he was talking about he sexxx's that are for sale...they're se motor/xxx coil subs that were all the rage like...4 or so years ago maybe..

200 or more id say

haha! i read through this whole thread and was thinking "this has gotta be the sundown section....NOBODY has ONCE questioned the 100.4" though the sundowns are pure quality, there's always a chance of something going wrong. ...maybe it had a loose screw rolling around in it, like my 3000d, and something shorted haha just playin' jake

is this another one of your "stupid" questions that bassahaulic already yelled at you about?! idk man..just buy a fudgeing amp like you said you would do. youre contradicting yourself w/ all these posts about what subs and amps to get...YOU said, buy the amp first, then decide on the subs, so why dont you do that, instead of sending members on wild goose chases for systems you probably wont even end up buying. in regards to your first post, both combos (subs fully loaded) should do well on those amps. BUY ONE, though i dont see either combo costing anywhere near $400

haha, you just got pwned. make up your mind though...first you said you wanted sq and ssd's, now you want bl's....BUT to answer your question, the 3kd will push the bl's nicely, but you fail again, because the 3k's have been discontinued and will be replaced by the 3500d. IF you decide on a 3kd, your best bet would be db-r or buying used when people upgrade

well in all of my experiences, if the amp is rated to do 1ohm, it should be good to go. all of my amps never got beyond warm at the most, and imho, running two amps to do the same thing/power is just a waste of money...if anything, buy 1 nice amp, and use the saved money to get an extra batt, or something to help relieve some "stress" on it

..i know some cars are like that, or its more comfortable for some people..but i was referring to people like my old roommate who used to practically be lying down in their seat while driving...

well i cant see your diagram, but by the sound of it, its good to go... you can either parallel then series, or series then parallel...doesn't matter.