fritosaregood

I got a little more done I cut the whole for the sub, put it some t-nuts, and put in the threaded rod. now i just have to find my small bolts to make the terminals. I used some carriage bolt with the theaded rod mainly to keep the bottom of the box close to flat so it lays down better those expensive little things. almost $4 each i had to screw that nut over 3 feet. then i had to do it again for the other one.

I had a few finals today so i didnt get much done. I got the top baffle on. i just using a single baffle because ill have threaded rod for bracing. I also sealed the edged with more fiberglass and made more 45's from resin. I didnt get to many pics of it since fiberglassin gets pretty messy. I also got some toys today..sorta ^^ wat i get for bein on ebay at 3am I found some 3in air sander disk things 25 for $20 nice deal, some rubber grommets. 150 with different sized i think it was $7. and 2 fuse blocks.. i ran into a problem with my alt to batt wire got laid on my header and came about a millimeter from melting throught the wire loom and wire jacket. so now i wanna fuse both ends just to be safe. Ill get a pic of wat the wire looks like.

i might not do a vid of this port because its tuned at 49hz for comps. but after i get the box in the car i can measure for my daily port. after that ones built ill make some vids

more pics.

thanks all of yall. I wanted one big port and i wanted it flared. the biggest aero port was 6 inches. i saw how to make kerfs, tried it, and it was pretty easy. So i decided one a big square flared port. It came out better than i thought I have more done including an inside flared part, the pics will be up soon.

i got a little more done. I got the holes drilled to mount the port and the t-nuts put in. started on the inside kerfs

thanks everyone. i had to use a hand saw(whats that??) to finished the kerf cut cuz my tables saw wouldnt cut high enough i should have more done tonight, then more pics.

I decided to build a kind of fart box for a local comp to get higher scores. and while i was designing it i thought i could make a second port for daily use and shove it through my backseat. I wanted to get a box for two 15s in the car but the most space i could get with the design i had in mind was 2.375 cubes per sub and i want more. so ill be using this box for this month then work out a new design based on this new box to get 2 15s in my trunk. this box will be a little over 4 cubes, with an external flared port, and lots of threaded rod and carriage bolts. i spent most of the day getting this far

Good eye !! Yea, about half of it only has one layer, on the other half I put a layer of 1-1/2 oz mat on top of the 1st layer. I was very careful when I pulled it off so it wouldn't break or bend, so far it looks good. Thanks for the heads up on changing shape though, I didn't know that. Tomorrow I'll test fit it to see if it changed. If it does, I'll just have to make another one. it may not change until you start stretching the fabric over it. Oh, ok. In that case I should be ok, I'm going to build up at least 3 layers on the form before I start mounting rings and fabric. Thanks again. sounds good.

Good eye !! Yea, about half of it only has one layer, on the other half I put a layer of 1-1/2 oz mat on top of the 1st layer. I was very careful when I pulled it off so it wouldn't break or bend, so far it looks good. Thanks for the heads up on changing shape though, I didn't know that. Tomorrow I'll test fit it to see if it changed. If it does, I'll just have to make another one. it may not change until you start stretching the fabric over it.

how many layers did you put on? it looks like only one. if its not enough it can change shape on you once you pull it off

trade in program for the rf amp and jump on the saz3500 presale you have till may 1st till its over. edit: saw your sig

i was about to take out my backseats for my next box, but decided against it Partsexpress. Its not a perfect match for the seats but for the vinyl on the door panes its dead on. http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searc...FTOKEN=26967993 ive got the grey and some black also

I think thats what i want to do now, get back to a stock look to my car. except for the trunk of course. redoin door panels is next up with more grill cloth to hide the speakers

Walmart FTW. quarterly bonuses to spend on subs!!

Finished up today. Its not as much bass as i would like, but after a week or so ill get use to it. Some grill cloth to hide it

Ill be working on puttin 2 15's in my trunk soon, and it may take me till the end of this summer to finish it. So for that time ill need the trunk empty to measure and test fit. so until that gets done I'm going to put 2 E8's in the center of my back seat IB. pics so far Thats all i can do for now. I'm waitin on some t-nuts to get here tomorrow

Subtract 3 db from the 2.83 volt/m rating and it equals 1w/m. Im about 95% sure

here it is. 200amp iraggi alt. kinetik 1800 up front and in back, 1 run 0 gauge. volume is 50 out of 62 in the test. the volume i set my gains at. if you look close one i get out of the car, im not reving it anymore and it drops below 14v

I doubt that, especially with YOUR electrical. I have one hell of an electrical and I'm in the low 13's high 12's on music. ill post a vid soon and its with a bass test then youll beleive me. What is your electrical

when im driving, it stays around 14.0~.5, for long bass notes it might drop to 13.5

I did it that way to show how hot it is to touch, because that is what most ppl use to compare temp for amps and subs.

Thats what i use it for mostly, it can also find the t/s parameters. It plugs in to the usb port of your computer.(after you calibrate it with the provided resistor) You just connect it to the pos and neg speaker wires with the gator clips. then hit impedence sweep.

If you don't mind me asking, how did you measure your impedence rise? I'm kind of interested to see where mine is at. Hold a DMM to the leads at the amp and play something. That way didnt work for me. I think its only dc resistance that does like that, I did it two ways, first i use a WT3 woofer tester to get an impedence plot showin were it rises to at each frequency. about 100buck. then i used a DMM to measure AC voltage and a clamp meter to find current from 20hz to 70hz, Then i put that in and excel spreadsheet, both ways were very close, my lowest actual rise after 18hz was really 1.097something. I prefer the WT3 tester, it can test from 1 to 20000hz ,but since it a sub i really only look up to 100hz, in about a second. where as the other way took a while. when i had to get readings, write them, do the math, I let excel do the math for me though