fritosaregood

ok..me feel dumb now

I notice somethin today. Before when i tried to reset the gains with out the use of a bass boost (it was set at half) i just unplugged the remote knob from the cord and went about reseting it. There is a comp today so i plugged it back in just incase i needed to use it, but once i plugged it it and adjusted it to zero. now there is no bass. then i turned it back up to half and unplugged it. and its like there bass boost has a memory of where the remote knob was at even when its unplugged? Is that right? also its making me think i may have messed up the boost. Like if i set the gain with no boost. and plug in the remote knob with it at half boost, then turn down the remote knob. so now its like i have negative boost. If you can understand my explination. edit: i played with it again and it seems to just have a memory of where it was. if i turn it down to zero with it unplugged and plug it back in it goes to zero. so no negative boost either. But should it have a memory like that

rereading this. your headunit is on, its paused. is it auxilary or a cd or radio playin(before it was paused). it might be the aux cord if your using that when the noise is there. if not that, then maybe the rcas. i had some broken rcas once and tryed to strip and reconnect them. that added a humming noise so maybe redoing the ground on the headunit or even grounding the rcas

are you touching your amp and your car when it stops humming? if so id say its the ground

where did you find an 8" aeroport? biggest ive found is a 6"

Ive already got the second axis. Ill be running the two on one for a while. untill have have more money for another amp. As for voltage. It usually doesnt go that low. But there is a comp on saturday and if i have my extra batteries I get bumped up two classes. so i replaced my stock with one of my kinetik 1800s and took the second one out. it will be back in after the comp

Thanks, i cant wait to double everything and try again

I have an audiopulse axis 15 and a saz3000. I finally got my non-blown sub in the box and in the car. I was tunin it all and saw my hair movin it the window, so i got my gf to come over for a try at a hair trick. enjoy

I decided to redo the gain setting on my saz3000 without using bass boost. Sub is audiopulse axis I started to set it using a DMM on ac volts along with an ac clamp meter first run gain was at min and i got 31.7 volts and 12.89 amps = 408 watts?? second run higher gain-- 79.8 V, 24 A = 1915 watts another higher gain-- 83.4 V, 25.3 A = 2110 watts another higher gain-- 84.8 V, 26 A = 2204 watts after that run the amp shut off. I checked how much more gain i had and i was amost max. so i turned off the amp, tried it again and i could see/hear clipping so i got confused 2204 watts and clipping, I got my WT3 woofer tester and did an impedence curve. My clamp meter has an AC current range of 50-60hz so i was testin with a 55hz tone, so i looked at the curve at 55hz and it was 3.1..ohms This got me thinking should i only be trying to get about 1200watts since its 3.1 ohms? I decided to turn the gain down below where i could see definite clipping, continued playin and i could smell a smell, not very back coil burning smell, but it was still there. The amp was still cold too. Before I got ready to post is saw a sticky about gain setting, it was saying multiply rms wattage and resistance of the sub and take the square root to get the voltage output at the speaker terminal, Sqrt(3000x1)=~55V So that way says 55V. i was getti 84.8 V. So this means definite clipping, right? all testing was done with a 200amp alt reved to 2k and 2 kinetik 1800s voltage dropped to 12.6 at lowest so now i have a few questions? Can i only use tones between 50-60hz if my clamp meter only does between that range? Should i have factored in teh 3.1 ohms into my first way of setting the gain? Should i just use the second way "Sqrt(rms x resistance)" to find set my gain?

Wow, did you follow me around for a day and write this thread about me. Ive been goin through the same thing, even down to bein 19 living at home, her sayin im a mommas boy. she wants nothin but to move out, but hates goin to work so calls in or just doesnt show up till she gets fired. she thinks im dumb for still living at home, when i have more money for myself and not many bills to pay. [more money for a system], its easier for college to stay at home to, plus all the free food. but me and her have broke up tons of times. then we both find somebody else for a week or two, then get back together. its good for a few days them back to fighting. but if you can fight and make up its a good thing.

Mounting depth for the TC 8's, well for the Audiopulse Epic versions is 5.55" i would assume the TC is the same

heres the sealed box.

Great info here... thanks. Did you seal the ported box, or build a new box for it? What cu.ft did you go with? I built a new box, it was a long while ago so im not sure on size, but i looked at a pic of it and it was maybe .35 cubes. ill get a pic up of it

I had and 8" L5 and it did great ported on 300watts. but when i sealed it i could hardly hear it. it was in the trunk of a car too,

thats how i did it. i turned off everythin but the daytons. I played it full range but I didnt like how it sounded on low stuff. so i turned the HP back on and set it to play 60hz and up.

i added some acousta stuff to the boxes in the door and got some better sound. i also looked at the amp crossovers again, it only has a 30 to 400hz selection range if i remember right. right now i have the daytons set to play 60hz and up

Surround sound is great for watching movies, but music is recorded in 2 channels. When you go to a concert, is the band in front of you or behind you? That is the type of environment you try to create in your car, so the music is staged like it is recorded, in front of you. oh, well thats a good logical reason.haha

arent o-scopes pretty expensive themselves?

Any light going in the box?

revo is mostly on the sq side. i have a axis though and it puts up good numbers. also almost 4000rms to a revo is to much

another question about rear speakers. Why not use them? Is it a highs up front bass in the back thing? I would think it would be like a surround sound and it would be better? or am i way off

How can you have found the pico fuse problem on the web but completely missed all info on active crossovers? Other than a couple really early Pio's I have not seen the pico fuse problem ever appear. Bang for the buck its the winner in my book. Yes the H701 is just a processor. I found that out because i had that problem. first i had noise. then i had a mishappen with my subs and got a thump noise whenever i turned off my amp. then my front channel whined alot more then turned to static. i grounded the rcas. and it fixed the thump sound but not the front channel static. but i did just look at the premier and pioneer stuff again and it does seem more affordable

i was thinking of eclipse before. or alpine, but I havent seen a place to get a H701(is that just the processor?) im looking to get way from pioneer because of the pico fuse problem

It has crossovers built in that will cover the required frequency range of your drivers. Normally it would also include t/a and appropriate eq for each channel to make it sound good. t/a? time adjustment? Do you have a name of a hu that i could use? Would an external crossover between the hu and amp work?

I thought i said it earlier, but the amp is an alpine pdx 5 channel. What makes the hu capable of doing active?