Duran

Mmmmm warm and gooey out of the oven

Please explain. I'm intrigued now.

All of your power ratings are enclosure and installation dependent.

One of the enclosure builders can do one for you, or use this to design your own.

I wouldn't use that calculator, it's way off if your port has a bent like yours does.

What the hell. you guys are getitng dumped on and the state famous for it's snow is showing it's green side

Cookies! I made brownies a few nights ago.

I'm completely serious bromo

thanks for posting this one up again.... i read at it, and like ///M5 mentioned, i am one of those folks that could read it a few times over and still struggle on some of it. i am posting it in my audio folder, just so i got it, so thanks again. chop yes i have a audio folder, my head seems to leak shit back out of it, lol I have an audio folder as well, there is too much info to not compile it into one source.

Lol true. Bromo I'm gonna go make some chocolate chip cookies now

You don't have cookies? ? Cookies save your passwords, as far as I know lol.

Never mind on the D2 question then, unless you want to buy a D1 and run the amp at 2 ohms to increase it's lifetime.

You don't have cookies?

any suggestions on how much watts i should give it? if i get it ill wanna get the dual 2 ohm. There is no minimum amount of power to give drivers, it's personal opinion. Why D2 only?

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options. Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring I strongly disagree. They can be run from 40 Hz. all the way up to 2000+ Hz. with great success. Please explain what you mean about a high Fs? You do know it is a midrange right? Why run a speaker below its Fs? And in all honesty, I've never heard of Mach5 until I Googled the model shakes posted. Why are we trying to use a midrange as a midbass? That speaker would be perfect if you put it in a small pod in the kick panels, in addition to like a 9-10" midbass in the door. There is nothig wrong with a driver playing frequencies below it's Fs but let's not get into an off topic debate here. I agree with the kickpanel, but I would vent it outside.

If you want very loud get the BL or BTL and port it.

haha, what do you consider the top site? I want to know so we can beat it My myspace of course!

Correct. Volts x amps = watts

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options. Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring I strongly disagree. They can be run from 40 Hz. all the way up to 2000+ Hz. with great success. Please explain what you mean about a high Fs? You do know it is a midrange right?

The results wouldn't be different, you would need a clamp meter to measure power output in watts. So when amp makers test their product they dont use just a normal voltage tester? Sorry if thats a retarded question, I dont know alot about the electrical side of most things lol Don't worry about asking a retarded question, we're all here to learn

It won't work the way you want it to.

I wouldn't go as low as 28 Hz. Unless you listen to pipe organ recordings a lot.

Is it a Jeep Wrangler? Be specific. Vehicle? Budget? Front stage?

thanks for finding this. Fixed. Lots of copy/paste going on here on the back end. No problem Mark

The 12" XCON Optimal Ported leads to the 10" ICON Optimal Ported. I checked all the others for you