Duran

Oh its okay, we are here to help! With the ZX350.4 it is 90 WRMS per channel at 2 ohms. It will run the 6x9's well, but probibaly not the 6 1/2's.

A passive setup uses fixed crossovers that are at speaker-level (i.e., after the amplifier but before the speakers). Other than adjustable tweeter attenuation, they usually are fixed at a certain crossover point and slope, at least without modification. "Active" implies some sort of electronic crossover that's placed before (or in some cases, built into) the amplifiers. This way, you're only limited by the processor itself, you can change points and slopes to whatever you'd want. This is advantageous in a vehicle because you might not know exactly what crossover point or slope will work best for your install - you could get extraordinarily lucky with a passive setup that's somehow set up correctly, but you'd probably have better odds playing the lottery For an active setup, you need as many amplifier channels as speaker drivers you're powering. That means, for a 2-way setup (midbass & tweeter per side), you need 4 channels of amplification. For a 3-way setup (midbass, midrange & tweet), you'd need 6. Thank you so much for the help! But does the quality on the passive crossover matter? I just put in Kicker SS Components, and I know that they cost so much because of the high quality crossovers, does it really matter? For in-car use, I would put flexibility over ultimate quality in the parts used. I think foil inductors and high quality caps are great, yeah, but if the Xover point/slope is wrong for your install, even the best quality components are going to sound like crap. Save those really high-quality crossovers for the home, where things are much less demanding I want to upgrade my Kicker KX350.4 to a Sundown SAX 100.4, would the crossovers on that count as Active? From what I hear the crossovers on that are really good...

HAHA, I was just making sure you weren't going to do that! What do you mean in your question though?

Huh? You are going to run subs off your HU?

each channel will put out a certain RMS power at a certain ohm load. The Sundown amp I recommended is 100 WRMS x 4 channels at 4 ohms. I believe it is 160 WRMS at 2 ohms per channel. You don't have to get a 4 channel, but it will make life easier for you.

If you get aftermarket speakers you SHOULD get a 4 channel amp to power them, you don't have to though. It will probably sound like if you run it off the deck too! Sundown 100.4's are great, but out of stock right now.

A passive setup uses fixed crossovers that are at speaker-level (i.e., after the amplifier but before the speakers). Other than adjustable tweeter attenuation, they usually are fixed at a certain crossover point and slope, at least without modification. "Active" implies some sort of electronic crossover that's placed before (or in some cases, built into) the amplifiers. This way, you're only limited by the processor itself, you can change points and slopes to whatever you'd want. This is advantageous in a vehicle because you might not know exactly what crossover point or slope will work best for your install - you could get extraordinarily lucky with a passive setup that's somehow set up correctly, but you'd probably have better odds playing the lottery For an active setup, you need as many amplifier channels as speaker drivers you're powering. That means, for a 2-way setup (midbass & tweeter per side), you need 4 channels of amplification. For a 3-way setup (midbass, midrange & tweet), you'd need 6. Thank you so much for the help! But does the quality on the passive crossover matter? I just put in Kicker SS Components, and I know that they cost so much because of the high quality crossovers, does it really matter?

Okay guys, I hear you all talk about active and passive front stages all the time, but I don't know the difference between the two. I am tired of not knowing and finally worked up the courage to ask. I hope I'm not made fun of or anything for it!

HAHA, a Q and a BL will sound better than an L7. And have more output.

A buddie and I wall socketed an old Type-X. It lasted about 5 minutes on 120 V. He is a dealer and Alpine told him to send it in because they were changing to carbon fiber cones, so he blew it and then sent it in.

Just get a BatCap Extreme. Thats the way to go.

my friend cut out the ENTIRE rear deck of his neon and has 2 level 5 18s walled and no problems as far as anything falling apart with the body/car goes Well if I did anything I wouldn't cut any metal, I just wall it and go with the angle of the window and, if needed, use the trunk too.

With that much power you should have more than one ground. 1/0 Gauge!

Your amp rack just became my desktop backround...Just so ya know!

*Drool dripping from mouth*

I'm sure they will pound, but the stratus, and most Chrysler products hate being subjected to modification. Back in 1997 we had a demo Stratus with 2 Image Dynamics IDW 15s on 2 Zapco studio 500s in it and this car fell apart in about 4 months. When you have to take the wheel off of to get to the battery, that tells you trouble is on the way. Anyway, I would use that Stratus as your grocery-getter, and put the system in something else. It would save you the trouble of massive repairs and save a ton of money. I went from 2 bl 18's down to 1 btl 18 in my Nissan for this reason. I found a used S-10 Blazer here for 800.00 and that will get the big system. They are like little battleships, they are solid. Well I have been pounding at mine for over a year, the rear pillar panels have popped off, my windshield is cracked, I swear it made the passenger side door panel come off too! Thanks for the heads up, I will be checking the Classifieds now!

How man would I need you reckon? 200 amp hours. The Powermaster D3100 "only" has 117 AH. A Kinetik HC 2400 "only" has 128 AH. An Optima Yellow Top "only" has 120 AH, the higher the better. I'm not sure about the MAX amps the 122000 is though... Not how many amp hours I'd need How many batteries Oh!!!! HAHA! WOW, it's my bedtime... What does your charging system look like again?

How man would I need you reckon? 200 amp hours. The Powermaster D3100 "only" has 117 AH. A Kinetik HC 2400 "only" has 128 AH. An Optima Yellow Top "only" has 120 AH, the higher the better. I'm not sure about the MAX amps the 122000 is though...

Atomic

D122000 is the best one on there, 200 AH...

How do BL 18"s sound? Still too much for my car?

Awww, what a boner killer! Oh well, thanks for watching my back!

HAHA! That is so funny, I work at SEARS in the Tools and Lawn & Garden Department! Just kinda ironic...

You only need 12 gauge for that...

Get 1/0 gauge wire (www.weldingsupply.com) the general rule on caps is 1 farad per 1000 watts RMS. You would be better off getting another battery, but its your money. www.weldingsupply.com http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...p?showtopic=200