audioarsonal
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Everything posted by audioarsonal
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The more you want the more it costs. Keep it simple, tell them what your looking for and work with them on coming up with a plan that will be both doable and affordable.
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No fuses required. That is MECA. All you need to have is the equipment and make sure its installed. Qualify on saturday compete on sunday.
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All drivers have there own channel of amplification. With the doors closed the 6's have very little impact on the sound quality really. The 8 is ran solely for mid bass and the 4's handle mid range. The 1" are crossed at 2k IIRC. Staging is a bit forward. But that is why I think I will add the 5 1/4" in the rear to balance it out. SO far it has had no problems keeping up with 55+
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When making an investment like this you should never skimp on the electrical IMO. For 5k daily you need AT LEAST 3 batteries and maybe an alternator. But I would get the batteries first as they are the main reserve. And like I said get yourself a good charger. Alternators are not ment to be used as battery chargers. No one sad the OP was stupid. But it would be dumb to buy the amp and not have proper electrical to start. I don't think people realize it costs just as much in electrical as it does for the amp. So your $900 amp is really going to cast $1800 when your all said and done, maybe more.
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Actually its not SPL. It does get loud, but it had a great BW allowing me to play damn near anything from chopped and screw to alternative rock. I designed the doors to do multipurpose. The 6" drivers are mainly for when the doors are open to help carry the mid range a bit. Since the 4's are a bit weak for that. I chose the locations of the mid/high as you see it to give the best imaging IMO. With them positioned as they are the highs are centered with the mids giving them a fuller sound. With them being angled like they are, the direction is focused on both the driver and passenger from opposite sides. Helping keep things somewhat centered. The 4's help bring the staging up more rather then having it focused down in the lower part of the vehicle. I also want to be able to turn the subs off and still have good mid bass.
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Correct. If you are referring to the audio competition it is regular DBDrag rules. This is a 3x event so it will be checked. With registration you are entered in both the audio as well as car show. If you would like your car judged you need to class it. For that info I would email them as to what needs done.
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Thanks. And as far as mounting I would assume you mean the upper pods, or the whole door?
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I will be there once again...6 years and counting! As far as what you are asking. Are you wanting to know about DBdrag or the car show? There will be a few of us camping this year. As the venue has changed from years past.
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LED's should be in next week. And I will try and get the other side piece done this weekend along with getting the one I already made sanded and shaped. Stay tuned...
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Mids and highs are really already done as you can see here... but I will probably be adding a couple 5 1/4's just behind the headrest area for some rear fill. I run an older Coustic XM5e crossover that has 3 way crossovers with the addition of a center channel and rear fill. I may also do some speakers in the amp area in the back. But that is yet to be decided.
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I think you will be quit happy. Do you plan to go ported or sealed?
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Might be....lol. But I would say the first time the belt slipped off I would have suggested trying a smaller belt if I were him. Also have you look at you tensioner to see how much its pre-loaded? There should be a little knotch in the casting and one on the arm. They should line up with each other. Another thing to check is alignment. Take a straight edge and place it flush with the other pullies and see if its out of line. You can look for belt dust too.
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If you said the belt slipped off I would say your belt is to big. That is most likely your problem. Every alt manufacturer I have talked to has always said to change belts. And generally most people don't and end up with either low idle output or a squeal. Then think its a bad alternator. FWIW.mine has a slight chirp when I start my vehicle as well. Especially when its cold out and the belt is still hard.
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HO alts usually have require more torque to turn the rotor then OEM. so its common for a worn belt to squeal a bit on start up. Most switch to a 1/2" smaller belt either Gates fleet belts or Gatorback's. How old is the alt. Is it properly aligned? Do you have any belt shavings around the pulley? When is the last time you charged your batteries with an external charger?
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That's cause you didn't get a "direct" replacement. That is obviously a larger case. In which I could see it changing the geometry. But in general most people will need to shorten their belt.
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I always recommend changing the belt 1/2" smaller. Generally the pulley's on HO alts are 2" and stock is around 2 1/2-3" in general. The smaller belt well ensure you have enough tension on the belt so it doesn't slip at load rpm/high load situations.
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The 187 would be more comparable to the E-15 which are both 2" VC's. Again, of all the 3 I would chose the OA if you like chopped and screwed and bass heavy rap. If you listen to more rock and alternative I would steer towards the SA.
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http://www.amazon.com/EQ1000-Eclipse-Band-Equalizer-Crossover/dp/B002S608XI
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I hope to have this playing by finals. You can check it out there if your planning on attending.
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enough....LOL
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That is a custom eq pod for my old alpine 11band. It had a little trouble though with all the vibration so I took it out for now.
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Which picture?