manbeer

@.75 ohms you are gonna be laying a beatdown on that sub, but i DO have a friend who ran his for 2 years on CK9.0's so i guess if done right they can take the abuse

a single 15" BL tuned somewhere in the low to mid 30's off of 1500 watts would likely be more than enough

I am trying to figure out the best way to accomplish my goals here while maintaining a reasonable budget. i will eventually go higher end, but for now i have other things i need to spend money on. With my original doors in place i was limited to a 6.5-7" midrange and tweeter. I was considering the Seas prestige textile domes for the high end, and the AA Poly's or the ID Oem's from the guy on CA.com that are like tweaked CX64 drivers. New setup was built around DLS Iridium 8.3's with a 8 inch midbass, 3 inch midrange, and 1.1" tweeter. the actual door panel has a sealed enclosure of expanding foam and 1/4" thin birch ply attached, but i will have to cut it apart and reshape with glass cause it won't fit onto my door unless i cut metal. So figuring i can do up to an 8" midbass, does it still make sense to go for the aforementioned drivers or should i take advantage of the full 8" and try to find something to make the most of that space? as far as the tweeter i will most likely still go with those Seas, and for the midrange i am undecided. i was actually thinking of just putting in a 7" and a planar tweeter where the old mid was, but it would be a poor location IMO. maybe i should try to find a matching seas 4" or something, or maybe i was thinking of peerless SLS 8" on the midbass, and peerless 4". i haven't had so many options to play with before so this is a whole new ballgame for me. I may even be able to fit a pair of e8s in the doors, but not sure how they would react to the either extremely small sealed area i could give them, or basically being mounted ib with the inside of the door as an enclosure Edit: here is a pic of the layout

BAD DEAL: to make a long short, my car is 07, his was 05. 05 doesn't have memory seats, everything is totally different. I think in an effort to get me out of there since it was getting late they just made a jumper to give the seat power. car drove home with half the electronic not working and all the idiot lights on. i stopped to get coffee and use the bathroom and it wouldn't start. i think it's in immobilzer mode cause the seats aren't recognized. i'll find out tomorrow hopefully if things aren't fudgeed up and i will have to go and swap out the cushions and seatbacks onto the old frames and hopefully all will be well. also those door panels are tweaked to fit 8" midbass and boxed off in the rear, so i would either have to cut and shape them down (which i will do) or cut out metal in the door. when all is said and done i will have nice 8" midbass, 4" and tweeter in each door

The guy who i'm getting it from owns the shop and it is his personal/demo car. A lot of times these types are cars are leased cause that is an easier write off through the business. And yeah, it isn't exactly what i would have done but it is a great mod for free and next year when i wanna do something different i know i won't have a problem trading the whole thing to someone else for a mint factory interior

i forgot to mention the best part, it will cost me a total of...$0 free

Guy came on to out local G35 forums who owns a custom shop and wants to swap with stock to return the car at the end of his lease. I took a look and luckily i called him before anyone else got a chance to. We are making the trade tomorrow, check it out on his website: http://meofny.com/projects.php?meid=73

Getting one of these as a temporary sub to try out. Trying to figure out how they are, what to do for an enclosure, and how much power i can safely give it. i have probably about 1200 on tap, the last owner said he was running it @ 2 ohms on an SAE1000 and it'll take more. I was thinking of doing something like 2.3 cubes net w/ like 60 square inches of port, tuned to about 35

i would imagine that it may vary in different vehicles due to mounting location but iirc, my friend used to be about 2db higher on that than on the latest TL. it is a good way to see if any tweeks you go are gaining SPL, kinda like a G-tech is a good way to see if mods are actually adding power.

I guess i was a little late on this, but i just installed a pair of SR10's in a friends G35 last week. each sub is barely getting over .3 of a cube sealed. Taking that into consideration, they get pretty loud, sound nice, and hit lows decently considering the size of the box. IMO they were not far off from an identical install using an Image Dynamics IDQ10v3 that i did in a similar car. Given the right amount of airspace i actually think that they would romp the ID. What s the box that you have tuned to?

bump- i just want to know if anyone has been giving the RL-P >1kw daily and how it is holding up

i have NO home audio as of now, but in the past... Speakers: Infinity Crescendo Series CS3007 Infinity Kappa (not sure what model) towers JBL 4311's Snell Type K's B&W Center Channel AR/Bob Carver S300 subwoofer Bryston 2b Crown Powerbase 3 Onkyo TX-DS767 ...probably more, that i just dont remember

and if you can match up the impedance with another sub and swap them out, put some sound deadening in there and you will benefit the most from the change out

I am getting a blown RL-P 12 from a friend and plan on reconing it. I could send it in, but reconing is something that i have really wanted to try myself and i think that this is a good opportunity. I know that i can't but the parts directly from soundsplinter, but i would imagine there are a few options for parts. My question is, if i plan on running the single driver to my MTX 81000d, should i go for a D2 or D4 setup? At 4 ohms my amp is rated at 500rms @ 12.5 volts. At 2 ohms, it's 1000rms @ 12.5, and from what i have heard they were fairly underrated. so for the hell of it assuming i can give the woofer either 600 watts or 1200 watts ballpark, which should i go for? i am thinking of just getting the D4 and wiring it at 2 ohms, then being extra conservative on the gains. Also, do different parts change the power handling capabilities when reconing?

i just confirmed it to be an RL-P12, so looks like i am good to go!

i fail then, lol

i use gobs on fun-tack on the back of the tweeter to mess around with the mounting positions

I don't know if this is some type of repost or even if i put it in the correct area, but i just noticed that yesterday was a record day in terms of visitors here. 257 members viewed the forums, not including all the lurkers (and there are a ton around) Pretty impressive, looks like you guys have been experiencing a pretty steady growth. Hopefully this trend continues for years to come

the problem is that 2 10"s sounds better to most people that aren't really into the technical aspects of mobile audio. it's hard to explain that you can get the just about the same results from 1 10" woofer with the same amount of airspace, and have better low end to boot This is the box he has: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZENCLOSURES...emZ300260367915 i really don't like the stuff that this guy makes. he doesn't really make use of certain areas where he could gain airspace, basically just makes them so sit nice and flush. performance is not the main concern

wow, that amp is so sexy!

Yeah, i actually wanted to do that but you guys know how hard it is to convince someone set on a certain amount of something (inches, watts, etc) that they can achieve equal or better results with less Anyway, it cost about half of the w3 and 500/1 combo he was looking into originally, so now he is thinking about upgrading the rest of the speakers in the car and picking up another on of the T series refurbs, probably a T4004, to run them.

I would steer clear of the USamps XT Series. It was line they released to try and snag a share of the budget market, so they are decent, but no great. I think a new SAE-1200 or used SAZ-1500 would be a great choice. they actually are pretty comparable on paper, too.

i am all about the bargain shopping thinking of trying to snatch up a bunch of these subs for the 69/each plus shipping. The G35 guys always buy these tiny sealed boxes and finally i found a sub that works well in them and is reasonably priced. I installed another one of these boxes with the IDQ v3 10" in a single cutout a month back running off a 500/1. These are very, very similar in sound but get a bit louder and seem to get every bit as low. not bad at all for the money and the fact that they have the same amount of airspace for the pair as the single idq

I had another G35 buddy come to me about a subwoofer setup a few weeks back. Seems he bought one of the prefab enclosures made to fit the trunk of the g35 that they sell on ebay. The problem... Box for 2 10" subs was only .8 cubes gross. He was looking at a few different subs, mainly JL, and was settling on the W3's. I happened to stumble across a great deal on RE SR10's and he ordered them, the nice thing about them is that they can play better than most given limited airspace. Even though the box is a lil tight, they don't seemed choked for air on the lows which i envisioned the w3's to be. Threw in a bit of polyfill to pick up some of the slack there. After woofer displacement they are only getting .31 cubes each! Anyway, i steered him towards a refurb RF T3002, they are/were really cheap at the time. We wired it up with Knu Flex 4awg, Krystal RCA's, and nice Knukoceptz 12awg speaker cable. 2 ogms bridged. My first impression was that it sounded fantastic, given the limited space we were working with, and the price of the entire setup. If he did not already have the enclosure i would have suggested having a single cutout and running one woofer, but we made the most of what was available. Woofers are nice, sound clean and punchy, and after setting the gains with DMM we actually had to back down quite a bit cause they were more than a match for the rest of the entirely stock stereo. No bass boost. All in all, the total spent on materials was about $400. here is a breakdown: 1)Used G35 Zenclosure prefab box - $50 1) Refurb Rockford T3002 amplifier- 120 shipped 2) 2x New RE SR10 D2's - 180 shipped 3) Knukonceptz Fleks 4awg kit - 60 shipped for the money and given the fact that we HAD to have2 10" subs, i was extremely happy with the results and so was he, which is the most important thing. These guys aren't even broken in yet, so they will only get better. Running @ 2 ohms bridged, backed way down on the gains so i would say the woofers are seeing about ~300w a piece.

well considering your setup i would say that the SAZ1500's will make as much or more real world power in your specific application for 2 reasons. The first reason being that i believe the MA amps are overrated, and the second being that you can only provide enough current to make X amount of power, and the sundowns will be more efficient so you will gain more from your current setup. If you had 16 volt electrical system i would say otherwise.