Stephan

Seems to be hard for me to find wiring diagrams for my setup. I have a single DVC 1 ohm sub, and a 2 ohm mono channel amp. Right now it's wired at .5 ohm and the amp or sub is cutting out at around 3/5 way up, not sure if it's the subs or the amp because the protect light does not come on, but it acts as if it goes into protect. I decided to wire to over 2 ohms. This would be wired from amp + to sub + amp - to sub - sub + to - for a 2 ohm load, or a 4 ohm? 2 right? Also, the amp has dual outputs, and i've read that I can wire up further by using both output terminals.

Thank you man. If that's true, then 3 runs of 0 it is. =)

I was not the one at offense I agree, pretty cable should not the least of my concerns. That is why I am researching before buying. KK has different selections of wire. I appreciate the advice on how companies may rate wire. And that is the exact type of answers I am looking for about the two. Welding cable could be fine, but I still would rather keep the wiring all the same brand and coloring. It won't be seen much, but it's one of those thing's that would bother me regardless, just because I know it's there.

You win for making the most ignorant statement I've ever heard. That's awesome for me. You win for contribution the most useless replies to this forum. Now we are both winners! Would you like to explain why I am ignorant for asking if I should do 3 runs of 1/0 or 1 run of 3/0, and which of the two is prefered? There is cheaper wire offered by KnuKonceptz that is 1/0 as well for a dollar less a foot. As I stated previously, I really would rather KK all the way through because of the look and I am stuck on the brand, who knows why. The welding wire maybe less expensive than the KK wiring, but I would rather not use mismatched wiring for everything, SORRY for wanting to keep it clean. A more helpful statement would be something to the effect of: - 1 run of 000 will save you money because you will only need 1 fuse, instead of 3 with a 3 1 runs. - KK Kollasus is almost 2/0 so 2 runs would be near equal to 4/0 ... - KK KLMX cable is under $2 and is less than welding cable. KK has amp kits to save a little extra money on the KLMX cabling but none of their Kollasus

I just looked up the prices on the Supraflex actually, and the KnuKoncepts is cheaper for the 0/1 guage. So if price was an issue, I'd go for the KLMX cable

Well look and name brand does matter to me. I gave 3 options, and read about welding cable ... not interested. I need opinions on what wire of the 3 is better, not what wire you feel is a waste of money.

Understood. Thank you again for explaining that.

Thank you! Do you really need a 4 channel amp to accomplish this?

Yes I did, and found only many references of people doing both IB and Active setups... There is nothing explaining exactly what it is any where that i've sene through my multiple searches

What is mean't by an active setup? A crossover built into the head unit? And Infinite baffle? Thanks in advance

Sounds good to me, but if i were to do that, isn't that a little much power for a tweet? Thanks for the help.. and i know it won't be exact, but you think this will be out around november? I think he is meaning you should wait until they have their new amp and get it, then you can have a crossover and amplifier for your mids and tweeters both.

My alt arrived today and it's installed! Now I need to upgrade my wires, I am stuck on KnuKoncepts but am interested in Stingers 3/0. In the long run Stinger 3/0 is actually less than 3*1 of the KK for obvious reasons, and KK doesn't offer any 3/0. I hear that the Kolossus cable is almost 2/0. I plan to get 2 more 250 alts, so am thinking about the multiple run issue. I am now stuck on deciding if I want to go with Kolossus Flex or KLM. KLM is smaller, but it's a bit cheaper when purchasing the amp kit, and they don't offer any amp kits with Kolossus. What would everyone else do? Go for the Stinger 3/0, multiple runs of the Kolossus Flex, or multiple runs of the KLM?

lime green paint, widebody kit, LEDs everywhere, pimp that chit out Yuck, a lime green car with LEDs is anything but pimp.

Mmm batcaps. Wish I had $2300 for a Batcap Extreme 4 of the 8400s in 1.. now that is power! Donations please??

Haha pucking bubbles

Thanks I was just confirming with the previous post that my model does the same thing I don't watch videos or DVDs in my car even though I have 3 screens lol http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IR4A...me=&seller= is the relay I was going to buy, is there any others that are cheaper? $18 isn't a lot, but it's always nice to save an extra penny.

I really think you should have a specific logo for each sub line. Like a cool stylized X underneath it have it say con, something like that. That's almost exactly what I brought up to Mark. I'd prefer without the con because that may look like Sony Xplodes, and the two cannot be compared!

Oh Sh** its the Cops! LOL

I have the same head unit and same problem. Mine is grounded but still says it cannot be operated while the car is in motion... even if the parking break is on, still no luck!

This thing sounds amazing in person, I cannot wait for the production line. I am already sold by hearing the 12 and comparing it to my old 12. I thought my 15 Icon was nice ... the Xcon 15's are going to be making me flinch a bit!

Thank you for the comments, I am actually going to put them into the B pillars so I leave room under the seats and it has a cleaner appearance. Luckily my car already has plenty of insulation... not second skin, but it does the trick for now.

Black Mylar! http://store.progressiveballoons.com/11670.html $6 bucks

I am wanting to put 4 5x5 mid-bass driver under the back seats of my SUV. The question is, will a mounting board be sufficient or should I build an enclosure that'll fit nicely under the back seat?

Is your 15 a D1 or D2? If it's a D1 I may be interested in taking it off your hands if the price is right!

Desktop computers can run off 150w easily! Thank you though