helotr3vor

I dont see a question? But SAZ-1500Dv.2 is best fit for BL imo but if you want a cheaper rout you can go with a refurbished SAX-1200D for over $200 less.

Do the new Q's with cooling and spider option have a pole vent?

The only thing is the battery is in the trunk. The hood is very confusing and I dont know exactly where my routes would go without examples/explanation. the big three in your case would be. 1 battery to chassis ground (you should see the stock battery ground, upgrade the wire) 2 alternator pos to battery pos (run from engine bay to battery in the rear, follow the stock wire) 3 chassis ground to engine block ground (this would be in the engine bay) 2 and 3 make me nervous cause I dont know exactly where and which wire it is. I might wait to see if I get any voltage drop before I do the big 3. I would need more 1/0gauge too. Only have 10 ft of it and a run from the hood to the battery would add another 10. try 1 and see how the bad the voltage drop is. depending on the type of music you listen too and the quality of stock wire, you might be fine. you dont need to replace the oem wire. just do your own run. in fact, i would recommend you leave the stock wire. Yeah I dont really want to mess with any stock wire. Ive never worked on Audi and would be mad if I screwed something up. I saw in the owners manual that you can really mess up some functions if you tamper with the battery and such. Off topic but I just made the build log.

Just got a new car so its time for the new build. I now have a 2010 Audi A4 Premium and craving to put a sub in the trunk. First off, here is the car.. I plan on getting a Fi Q 12d2 with cooling and spider. Its going to have a ported box tuned to 32-33hz with a matching black/silver theme built by DonH. The box dimensions are 35x16x12in with the baffle on 35x16. The sub will be wired parallel to a Sundown SAX-1200D. I plan on getting a refurbished one from db-r. Im going to be able to hide the amps in the sides of the trunk behind the panels. If I can hide all wires this can be a very clean semi stealth build. As for electrical, I have 10ft of Stinger Hyperflex and but I'm still unsure if I'm going to do the Big 3. Ive heard some people say the stock electrical will handle 1200w without a problem but then again its always nice to have that extra voltage. Im going to have a Line In Converter to reroute the sundown amp to the stock amp then to the head unit. Now I know this isn't ideal but I've been told this is the best way to route the wires with keeping the stock head unit in this car. I'm open to suggestions on the best Line In Converter for my circumstance. Im going to have knu 4gauge power wire for the amp and knu speaker/rca wire. I got the itch to get something done over the weekend and got the back cabin sound deadened. I had a few sheets of Damplifier Pro laying around and figured I'd put it to use. I still have 2 full sheets that I plan on putting on the trunk lid once I figure out how to get the panel off. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Excited to get going with this new build log ~Trevor

The only thing is the battery is in the trunk. The hood is very confusing and I dont know exactly where my routes would go without examples/explanation. the big three in your case would be. 1 battery to chassis ground (you should see the stock battery ground, upgrade the wire) 2 alternator pos to battery pos (run from engine bay to battery in the rear, follow the stock wire) 3 chassis ground to engine block ground (this would be in the engine bay) 2 and 3 make me nervous cause I dont know exactly where and which wire it is. I might wait to see if I get any voltage drop before I do the big 3. I would need more 1/0gauge too. Only have 10 ft of it and a run from the hood to the battery would add another 10.

Ive heard LOC may have less power on the low end of the hz spectrum. Do you have this issue?

Cool nice find man I'm probably going with that one. Unless there is some off name brand that specializes specifically for the A4 B8 application... But who am I kiddin..

Yeah I was probably going to upgrade later to the JBL ms-8. But thats in the future because it's going to cost as much as the sub and amp.

Im pretty sure I would have to find it from the piece plugging into the amp no? I dont think I wanted to cut anything going into the factory amp.

I need a remote turn on dont I?

Ill post one in a minute. imo its definitely worth keeping. I got my back cabin damplified yesterday still have 2 sheets left for the trunk hood.

This is what a member said on the Audi forums for my specific car. "I believe your HU and steering wheel controls (vol/mute etc) are all controlled through the factory amp so in bypassing the factory amp you would loose control of your new sub/amp and it will not function properly. I don't think you'll have any problems taking the signal from the factory amp output."

I was going to purchase a refurbished Sundown SAX-1200D from db-r but have one question first. Can you hook up the rca's to a line out converter such as this? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23128_PAC-SOEM-T.html

I cant order till i know if you guys have gray!

They splice the rear output wires from the head unit (which is the rear input to your stock amp), and connect it to the loc inputs, then connects the rca lines to the loc output, which goes straight to the new amp. This is pretty clear thank you. Your talking about wiring the new amp strait to the head unit correct? Do you know if this works well for newer Audi's?

Do you still get full output from your amp and sub?

LOC go up to about 80wats. Doesn't this mean you lose allot of power when you power an aftermarket amp through them?

I thought about this and its probably the route im going to go but I am hesitant wiring a 1200w mono amp to a factory amp. It doesn't seem efficient to me

I havent found anyone who's done this to there B8 A4 so im not sure if its possible with the stock head unit.

These questions are misplace now. Please help me out on my other thread I just started regarding this question.

My only concern is wiring the RCA from the Sundown to the factory amp then to the head unit. Is this a bad idea hooking a more powerful amp up to your factory amp? eliminate the factory amp completely... rca's should be ran from head unit to the sundown amp, unless you are going to use a signal processor which would have been in between. If I eliminate the factory amp I have no speakers.... I would have to buy allot more equipment if i did that. Im not sure if there is a way to plug RCA's in the back of the stock head unit.

The only thing is the battery is in the trunk. The hood is very confusing and I dont know exactly where my routes would go without examples/explanation.

Im getting ready to install my new system soon but I ran into a couple problems/questions. I am going to be running a Fi Q 12d2 parallel to a Sundown SAX-1200D. Im going to be adding this to my stock setup in my car. I have a 2010 Audi A4 without the B&O system (it has the basic system). Im going to have a ported box in the trunk. My main question is... What is the optimal way for routing the Sundown's RCA's back to the head unit without problems? I've seen people in previous installs on the Audi forums that simply disconnect the stock sub, then splice the wires, and add a converter to female RCA. They plug the new(sub) amp's RCA's to that which routes it back to the stock amplifier and back to the head unit. This is probably the easiest(laziest) way to do the install but I was wondering if this will give me my full output. I wasn't to sure on wiring a powerfull amp to a less powerfull stock amp for the head unit to read proper signals. Ive seen people use this line output converter to route those RCA's. http://pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=175&CategoryID=28 Second question is do you recommend I do the Big 3 for this set up? I already have 10 ft of Stinger Hyperflex 1/0gauge wire. Thanks for the help If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask

My only concern is wiring the RCA from the Sundown to the factory amp then to the head unit. Is this a bad idea hooking a more powerful amp up to your factory amp?