dbjunior

id reccomend you get an amp if your gonna spend money on a decent set of comps.

ive listened to the type r's and dont like them they are also not that efficient so they dont get that loud. whats your budget and what do you have to power them.

personally id get a pair of bl 18's or nightshade 18's with a saz3000d in a correctly built box it will be more than you could hope for. the btl's dont need a ton of power but unless you are gonna give them atleast rated i wouldnt spend the extra money on them. depending on the strength of your stock alt and your listening habits an upgraded stock batt and a pair of d3100's should be enough to power the saz3000d.

lvl4xl10, custom lvl510 must mount inverted, custom nightshade 10, custom bl10. those are the choices id look at. the lvl5 would look sick though with magnets bigger than the mounting hole.

any specific type or all vehicle welcome

what is your vehicle freq 48-50 if so it might have something to do with octaves it still resonates just not as much as the peak freq so 24 25hz would be and so would 12hz .

whats your budget for speakers. and do you plan on a sub?

2.8 is a little small for a pair of 12's. what are you making the new box?

i thought a clipped wattage compared to unclipped same wattage signal would cause more heat due to a stall in signal amplitude and less cone movement compared to unclipped. but i guess you learn everyday.

depends on where your mids are crosses but it should help a lot. i have a crappy front stage so i try to cross the sub a little higher than i like. if your midbass is good down to 60 you will be fine. my box is very large and from 60-80hz it fades quite a bit 40's down it pounds so i cant complain. i run it on only 600w right now but have run as much as 1800 for short periods and never had mechanical issues even with the large box just have you ssf set right other wise you will have issues in a large box with a lot of power.

for that quality sub you can only have the best! get a prefab ported and it will shake the world.

what did you get when you metered what meter and whats the specs on the box. every thing looks great good job.

gonna have to check with a tape. dont forget the mbf baffle will add depth.

cdt hd 62 great set for the price 239 on woofers etc.

the vehicle freq is about the same as the liberty but box positioning works totally diffrent he has less room between the hatch and box though so i think it was suffocating it. it was loud as hell in the very back firing back but not very loud up front. the box is also tuned to 35hz. i plan on building a new box for him for comps tuned to 49hz with a ton of port area firing up and subs firing forward should do good with the seats down. not the best equipment for comps though a pair of type r 12's and a cadence fxa1200d. it does low 140's now with better subs and more power with a the comp box it should be better.

was looking through your pic and damn nice glass work the shiny red wall looks great. what type of box is that. looks like there is ports on the side and then next to the subs firing in a diffrent direction.

i have a q 18 and have tried both i love the low the ported box has but with it tuned a 28 i feel the upper sub region lacks a little in my box probably due to it size if your going to build it to the larger box recommendations tune a little higher like 30hz if your gonna go small to medium 28hz should be fine.

how much for just a cap

what i ment was yeah there is more power but not really more out put due to limited amplitude the sub or speaker is getting more power but instead of turning into sound its turned into heat on the coil. a 1000w square wave (clipped sine wave) and a 1000w sine wave will sound diffrent and create diffrent amounts of heat in the coil the unclipped signal will also be louder. proof termlab. i have competed many times and seen lower volumes on hu work much better than higer volumes in same exact app. due to clipped signals.

what is the use for higher voltage preouts? im not sure but i thought it had to due with noise inductance.

cant compare the ddz if there was specs. the ddz doesnt have specs. its got pics though.

not pointy exactly but not flat more rounded i guess. and the flat is clipping. yes you can get it to produce more power but it can easily harm you speaker or sub this way. if the gains are set correctly i wouldnt turn them up any more. how did you set the gains turn the know to where you think the voltage of the preouts would be? a hu with 5v preouts might not produce 5v before clipping. an o scope is the best way to set gains so you know you are getting the most power without clipping.

the 3500 will be to much for a single bl. the btl can handle the power if applied correctly.

it would be great for a 12 and it would still work for a 15 on the small side but it would work. what is the box tuned to though i wouldnt put it in a box tune much higher than 32.

the amp will produce more current= more power but in the form of heat and the wave will be flat on top not pointy like it should be, causing the extra heat to spend more time heating the coil. you could have 1200w of clean power and 1200w of clipped power the coil will remain a lot cooler with the unclipped signal. just because you have the gains matched doesnt mean you wont clip either a highly eq'd cd can throw off your signal and cause it to clip. is this some sort of test figured a super mod would know this.