dbjunior

there is only one thing i dont like about them and thats the power and speaker inputs they are on an angle down but the mounting lip sticks out a little to much so its a little tough to get bigger wire to bend around the lip and go into there spots. they should have trimed the lip back a little to make it easier. other than that they are great amps they look a little cheesy but are heavy for there size. the foot print is smaller and more square than the txa series and you dont have to worry about the sharp heat sink the txa has. id say they are a great budget amp solid performance and ive had no problems.

the rainbows look more like a midbass than a midrange. have you compare freq resp graphs. if so what do the look like. id think you could lowpass the aa higher and get a better midrange with a slight loss of midbass. i think it will depend on the tweeter you use.

jl products are very good the w6 sq is unbelievable the w7 has more output but slightly lower sq. most people wont notice a diffrence in how close the sq is. the fi Q is very similar in sq and output to the w7. if you want louder than a pair of w6 12's off the same power id suggest a ported Q or w7. if your really more interested in output a bl might be what you want it wont sound as good as the w7 or Q but ported off 1000w would get loud and still be decent for music. the only problem i see with jl is the price but if you have the money and like the look better go for it.

if you dont need 1ohm capability look at this fxa 2100. i had a txa1000d and had issues they replaced it with the fxa1200d and its been great.

how good did the first box do. what was the best direction with it. my buddy has a liberty and wanted a good sounding box that looked good so i built him a box just like that and we tried it back and then turned it up and got a noticeable diffrence in output. what was the tuning of that box compared to the second box and what is the vehicle freq.

the 300 and magnum use the same alternators as the charger.

you should try and get some of the first spl subs and run each off a 3000d.

idk what car you have but i know a guy who had sub and port facing the side in a trunk car and did very good with a single 12 just leave enough room for the air to flow past the box into the cabin.

thermal rating not listed.

id do a ported box separate chambers two ports subs in middle. it will be one box that will still look ok and work great with either 1 or 2 subs just have them carpet over one of the sub cut outs so you dont see the open hole.

as tmax said kickback is caused from either a dull blade not being able to cut the wood as fast as you are feeding it and from the board twisting. if the blade is sharp go slower and try to keep it straight although it is hard with a large board and small saw. i have better luck with a skil saw and t square. check the board for square first though i have got a lot of sheets out of square and by using a t square and skil saw your boards will end up out of square and not fit together correctly if you dont correct this.

since your from new york new comp circuit.

180 amp 220 amp 240 amp stock 135 amp the 180amp alt cost less than the stock alt and there is no core charge. it also may be your best choice as it has the highest amp at idle rating of 130amp.

if you go 3k id upgrade to a 180a+. check the local autoparts store get a price on a factory replacement then look into the top ho alt companys you might be able to get a higher output alt than the stock for close to the same cost.

what do you plan on getting for a setup. a 130a is pretty strong.

is it a hatch or is it the sedan with trunk. if its the hatch subs up port to the back 36w 14h 16d port 34.5w 2.5h 10L tuned to 60hz peaks at 63hz should handle the power you have no problem. if you have the trunk car id suggest a similar sized box but port and subs forward sealed off from the trunk.

whats you vehicle resonant ? what is the vehicle?

why didnt you go with a d1

pierce audio wmd12's are on sale at a steal for 150 each right now.

if you notice the voltage dropping low just turn the volume down for a little while and you should be fine.

have you ever thought about offering the mj's in diffrent sizes. its an incredibly priced 18 but not everyone has room for and 18. i think they would be great budget subs. they have decent power handling and xmax so it would be a great alternative to the over-hyped type r.

i hope you have serious electrical upgrades. those amps can be current hogs and are exspensive. if you havent bought them loog into something diffrent.

its radius not diameter radius of the 21 is 10.5 the radius of a 10 is 5. the 21 is 346sqin the 10's are 471 the diffrence is 125sqin thats 36% more cone area. thats just about a 1db diffrence theoretically

id try the second battery just be careful and watch your voltage. even if you have to upgrade a second bat will only help.

with that much power it would drain the cap instantley and just create more stress on your electrical. how large is your stock alt? if it's 110 or larger a second battery should be enough as long as your not heavy with the volume knob all the time. a yellow top is ok for a starting bat but id reccomend a kinetic 2400 or similar bat for a second bat