dbjunior

welding wire is fine as far as fuses you want to put wire rated fuses in so 300amp fuses would work. next to front and rear battery a fused distro is a good idea thats were you could put the fuses rated for the amps. use the same ground for everything.

4.5cu tuned to 32hz with 50+sqin of port.

as long as the vehicle doesnt sit for a long period of time you should be fine just keep it the same type (seeled) dont want any dangerous gas fumes in the car.

id shop around for the 3000d's you can pick them up for around 650 700. db-r has a couple referbs for 750.

if you already had it setup before all you should need is the power wire order it by the foot and get some for the ground to they are having a closout on the kolossus wire 25ft 69.99

if you are looking for numbers the bl is the way to go. if you want lows, real lows not rap lows, get the Q. if you are interested in a q18 pm me i have one im gonna be selling.

depends more on the box size and tuning.

im sure its the same as others protects against manufacturer defects. if you blow it up due to more power than rated or over driving the sub mechanicaly its not covered.

any info about a website might help get things off here.

thats a good start. as far as dynamat goes you might want to look into other brands to save money secondskin on this forum is one raamat is another very good products just better prices. there are cheaper products but with that the products tend to be cheaper.

id turn down the loc

i wouldnt go by reviews on crutchfield. most people who buy off there are not very knowledgeable people. try and go and listen to a few diffrent sets at local audio stores. take a note of the equipment you liked and what you dont like ie paper cones poly cones metal tweeters silk tweeters. peoples tastes differ if i like it you might not. once you know what you like and what about it you like then start asking about something in your budget that has similar sound. try not standing directly in front of the speakers when listening try having the speakers as close to in car as possible.

id say ia dr, dc lvl4, or aq hdc3. those three are what id pick from. the hdc3 would be the cheapest.

budget

i have the magnaflow catback on my dakota 5.9l sounds very smooth low rumble gets decently loud to

3 more added at boomers in nashua nh dates june 27th, aug 8th, sept 12th. these shows will all be night shows starting at 7pm.

why do they need recones. bad coil,bad surround,busted cone?

id drop the hight of the box angle the face for the subs and port and block off the sides put the port on bottom aswell making almost a horn/wedge loading setup less impact on the soundwaves and better flow toward the front

how about save money and build a ported box for a pair of the twelves will be louder use less power and save a little weight you will also have a replacement sub and amp if anything was to ever happen.

sealed vs sealed yes displace more air make sure its in the right size enclosure

nice "beater"

id do 4 8's ported subs and port forward or subs forward port toward driver side.

if you want deeper try a larger box they reccomend up to a 1.6c it will make the lows louder and the rest about the same.

I have an FI SSD 15". Im a fan of FI. More comparable testing of the drivers is a must in my opionion. I need to know why im spending more money on a driver that has this " 11.25" high flux motor and 8 layer flat wind voice coil" and this "chamfered pole or patent pending heli-cool". IF i were a new customer i wouldnt know what that does or is. fi is also not a company you find at your local bestbuy or walmart. its for more advanced audio enthusiast that do research on products before purchasing

i like it because it has a 3 band eq, crossovers and 3 sets of 4v preouts it also has usb aux imputs not the cheap rca imputs like some