mdexxxiv

Quote from Officer Steve "Somewhere, someone counts on me to buy a product he or she builds just to keep them employed. Now its my choice, I can get one built by George Walker, in Greenbo, AL or someone with a name i cant say... Ill take George." George will know what the product is and will probably have one in his car. Unspeakable name person doesn't know much about the product, has never seen anyone with one and will never be able to afford one. To them it's something they make for rich Americans far away.

I've got my 50% in already, waiting for my dough to hit my paypal once the check clears and then it's on.

Jeep huh? 1 18. Smaller box.

I would say the 2 15's because of moving cone area.

400+ on the plane to Vegas, 168 mph on the interstate in a G35, 37 mph on an ocean liner to Europe.

It's actually 567 for the 747-400, the fastest and latest model.

They take 3-5 days to move funds and it takes that long to put funds in. Scammers won't mess with this because it's not quick enough for them generally.

Everyone likes cheese. You're considered strange if you don't. I do. Good guess.

I've had people tell me they hit something crazy and swear on it. "Yo holmes I hit like 6,334 db with my 6 Jensen 12's and my Turbo amps at negative .154 ohms.) I really want to bet these people and pillage them of their money but that would be like robbing kids or something-just can't do it. I've heard alot in 20 years of audio and if I can find it, I have a photo album of the worst and ugliest installs I have come across. I'll put that up.

He was wrong on the stock ground being good enough, but you were wrong about everything else. Running power and signal away from each other is a myth. If your connections are chitty, expect noise. if you do them the correct way, you'll be just fine. I can't even begin to count the amount of times I've done this. John I'll admit that once upon a time I thought that was true... I remember hearing this way back in like 1992 or some chit.

Is in Arizona not too far away.

thanks. That's the most helpful response I've had yet. Although nothing jumps out at me as a similarity between the CD subs and anything from Atomic. Not that they HAVE to look alike to have come from the same builder. I dealt with them and the way these places work is that you give them your specs, they give you a parts book where you get to pick your baskets, mags, backplates, etc and they match it up to the specs they were given. I'm not sure who makes CD stuff but they used to be considered high-end when I used to sell them in the late 90's.

Alot of products are made by Atomic/SJA out of Oxnard, California. They are an "off the shelf" builder for alot of smaller companies that are just starting up.

1 lb shipping, huh? UPS sheep-raped me for $40.00 to ship my amp to Sundown yesterday from Arizona.

Boredom + not getting any = that. I see.

Signed...However it should be added that power should be tested at 12V, as most people that buy amps have stock electrical systems to start with. 16V and 18V ratings are misleading as they apply to mods made by the experienced audiohead and not the mass market consumer who make up 95% of the market.

Ok so I will stay at 14.4 I thought for sure this thing could take more, being a freaking HUGE.. lol These amps were a product of the early 90's when 12 volts was pretty much all we had to work with. Those are even more rare than my old 50C.

Ok so I will stay at 14.4 I thought for sure this thing could take more, being a freaking HUGE.. lol These amps were a product of the early 90's when 12 volts was pretty much all we had to work with. Those are even more rare than my old 50C.

The Super bowl was interrupted here in Az by a 30 sec PORN clip in the last 5 min of the game. No joke. You have to read this to believe it. http://www.azstarnet.com/sn/metro/278448.php

Oops, a small oversight on my part. Thanks for getting it to the right place.

At one of our IASCA shows a few years back I had a competitor tell us that he was running his amps at a negative ohm load(not possible) He kept at it, saying his zapcos were at negative 2 ohms. I was a Zapco dealer who knew what the products were capable of, and after pointing this out to him, he pretty much ran away. The locals at these shows-novices- all think they got something over the pros. It's entertaining at least.

Every once in a great while I come across some posts that make me think, "Damn..." like those asking about speaker impedence when they got the website up in front of them with the diagrams and they STILL don't understand it. Anyone got any zingers to share from the internet, retail side, friends and customers? Fire away!

Option 1 (parallel/parallel) = 0.5 ohm load Voice coils wired in parallel, speakers wired in parallel Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 1/2 ohm mono Option 2 (series/parallel) = 2 ohm load Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono Option 3 (series) = 8 ohm load All voice coils wired in series Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 4, 2, or 1 ohm mono

Inverting the sub makes no difference, just adjust for displacement. The only thing is the box plus inverted sub takes more space. I would just go standard and be done with it.

I like the idea. Want an old Lanzar Opti 50C? I like the amp but it is a power-eating alternator killing inefficient bastard. I want a 3000d at some point.