djjdnap

It might but i doubt its noticeable

I was in chicago and didnt have a cp, but happy belated 4th.. Funny thing i ws wt some brazilians and they were like, what is this 4th day, fudge it, it did nothing for me, it was rather funny, but their cool people.. We was doin the lil, Capoeira demonstration on the lake shore, because its not a dam beach, a beach is connected to a body of ocean water..Ha inside story..

I agree. ITs just soo, natural :boink:

haha, just search for it then.. they are all titled djjd..... or u could go back to the site and just right click on it like ur saving it and find the folser where it is saved to. have fun :whipitgood:

Just some stuff i've had Kenwood-- always breaks on me, subs lasted a long time, sounded aight.. Amps--good for a 6x9 or front fill. JBL-its a love hate relationship with my amp and me, at the moment we love each other though.. RE-loved my 2 12in sexxx's.. Dont know y i sold them though Ah yes to get 2 15in sexxx's but only bought one because the money got spent. Gotta love em.. Crunch- wasn't a bad amp actaully Optima-haha, man this amp could take a beating Alpine- 1507 got the amp still have yet to hook it up Oh yea i almost forgot RF-man my 1st set of subs, i still dont know about em

ur not going to lose a signal if u just splice the wire, that is connected to ur rear speakers, just tap into that wire, get the converter if needed and hook it up to ur amp. problem solved,

74 m this game cheats :soap:

U just right click on the tag that says mp3.. not hifi or lofi..

although no one has asked me to make any bass songs, yet which i said i would put on here for free..

B) if i do send me some money :whipitgood:

adding batteries will only help u have more time to play music while the car is off.. Get an alt

For a momment i thought u guys were talkin about mooresville indiana

dam son ur like an old man can he still...well,, :boink:

Gain Matching Correctly setting a sound system

SPL Tuning In most vehicles resonant frequencies have little effect. It tends to be the general transfer function which dominates. Your best bet is to try to map this by measuring the response of a box in and out of the car on a meter. Getting 8-10 dB extra isn't easy, and without a meter it would be very difficult indeed as testing can't be done as effectively. If you can find the right note to play with the current setup (I'm assuming you're not sure of this at the moment) you can typically gain about 2dB, it can be frightening how fast it drops off from the peak value in some cases. With your current box, if possible experiment with aiming it in different directions at full power and taking SPL readings from 40 to 65 Hz every 5 Hz. Allow some time between tests for the batteries and subs to recover. If you have better access the thing to do next is to make a box about the right size, start by tuning to 40 Hz, with as large a port as is practical without having the end of the port within about 1.5* the port diameter from the back of the box. Chart the results (frequency wise every 2 Hz or 1Hz if you have the time) for the tuning, then increase the tuning by cutting 1" off of the port. Repeat the measurements and continue doing this. You'll need to do this about 6dB down from your max if you want to not have your results skewed by voice coil heating and battery drain, but it should put you close to where you want to be. It can often help to retest the box aiming at this point, as the increase in SPL can bring about different effects in the way that the box is loaded and the way that the cabin responds. The next step if you have more time is to try different box volumes. Sometimes smaller boxes can work better than huge ones due to the way that they interact with the car. Usually a bigger one will give a higher peak, but it's a lot easier to figure out where to tune and test now that you know what your car's like. If you do this it is almost essential to re-experiment with box aiming. Smaller boxes often work better firing backwards, while larger ones prefer to open up and play with less loading by being aimed forwards. Once you've got the best tuning for your car, and the best box volume hopefully, the next step is often to increase the port area so that it approaches the size of the radiating area (cones). It should still be kept to a point where the end of the port is more than 1.5* the port diameter from the back wall though, else you can increase port area and decrease SPL. The next step is to do some testing on this box, cutting off in 1/2" increments and measuring the frequency response. You should try to do this at full power so as to get more accurate results. You will then need a digital voltage meter and a clamp on ammeter. Set both to peak as it's the same. At 1 Hz intervals measure the in box impedance by playing that note and measuring the voltage and current. Impedance = voltage/amperage. Once you have a chart of the in box impedance it is possible to experiment with the wiring. So if at 60 Hz your in box impedance is making each amp 'see' 8 ohms, and by adjusting the wiring you can make the amps 'see' 2 ohms bridged (if that's what they're designed for) you suddenly have 4* the power, or to put it another way a 6dB gain before power compression. The final step is to do a little more testing of the box, the more you can do on this the better. If you want to keep your amps safe it's best to chart the in box impedance before playing notes. You can do this well in advance of going on the meter by testing how the impedance varies for different port lengths at home if your using a shop meter and save yourself a lot of time at the shop. If you can do this at full power, and the dB testing at full power you'll be doing yourself a favour as even the impedance can change at higher power levels due to heating. The total time on the meter is often around 10 hours+ The more complex the install the more there is to test. Due to the amount this can cost (inc. fuel), most people choose to buy their own meters to test with. The Kriss meter www.kriss.com is a great meter for the money and as long as it's kept well charged will not deviate much at reasonable SPL levels. A good battery charger is also important. Leave the battery on trickle charge overnight to allow it to regain its full potential. Once you've done this you should be about where you want to be. You can now experiment with the little things like upgrading power wires, learning which windows/doors to lean on to gain SPL. Then there's the more useful things like upgrading the alternator and batteries so that more power is available to your amps so that the maximum power can be delivered. Then, assuming your bank manager hasn't placed a court order on you to keep you away, start looking to buy more powerful amps so that you can drive the subs harder. You will already know the impedance you want to drive, so it's usually the best time to buy amps. Once you have all the information (usually in excel) you can try to sell it on Ebay to recoup some of the money spent on meter expenses and child support payments to your now ex-wife

AND?????

Aight i mostly make hip hop beats, they aint got no words to em, keyword beats, so i mean they free downloads, some of the songs have some good bass, to them, I'm up for making a some bass songs if any one is interested, pleeze somebody has to be, i really do feel like makin some bass songs, but i need some feed back. In the mean time just check out my page.. http://www.soundclick.com/bands/6/djjdnapmusic.htm I luv free publicity, hmm maybe i'll post this at CA.com to yep

Soo ur saying denim is stupid now

ok so 29x29x14= 6.8 cu^3 before displacement i believe.. ok so the box u have could work. but i dont think people make them like that, most people have boxes like this so if u just took out the brace in the middle and moved the slot to either side it would need to be 24.18in long which is fine since the length of ur box is 29in long so it would the port would be 3.5in wide like u have it, and 24.18in long

no prob bob, check this site out http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm thats the main site these are the specific ones u need.. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=45 http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 if u need more help just ask :thud:

WHat up FOO :thud:

:ph34r: If it is just at high volumes i would say get an eq and tweak it a lil, bit, or try an new enclosure, or u could buy new subs, all are choices

so r u saying its burnt, or it came a loose.i should get my test light out and put it on the coil and the termial to see it they are connected

well i sort of lost the digi multi meter, but i have one that has the little needle that bounces, and it just doesn't move the needle, so i guess it would be no load, since there is no ohmage,

i remember a while abck david at re was like get a multi meter and it eh ohmage is like 100 or like 1000 that meant it was a burnt VC, thing is my SExxx says 0.. so idk i hope it mean it was a loose connection.