DedicatedEnthusiast

Didn't know if I would attempt a pick-up from him or have it shipped is the only reason I'm asking.

That would be greatly appreciated:) I would be more than willing to work with you both but out of curiosity where at in Ohio? I'm from the Cleveland area myself.

Hmm interesting...my next question was going to be do you know anyone or any place that I could have build a box for me as Dave the Box Guy is not currently accepting quotes for custom work? I'm all good with electrical work and what not but when it comes to box-building and design I'm clueless and would like for a professional with experience to assemble one for me preferably with internal bracing, a double thick front/top plate and maybe even with that xtreme Kote bedliner spray.

Thanks man! I can see you getting a lot more room that way with generally less trunk rattle but in all of my testing with previous installs facing sub/port firing forward into the cabin I have lost that highly pressurized sound I so much enjoy (granted I never completely sealed off the enclosures). Does the 8'' aero port automatically supply and determine box tuning and if so around what fs/tuning frequency would it be with 4.25-4.5 cubes?

But is a whole nother xp3000 really necessary do you think? Would a xp950 in addition not suffice for the 3875 watts?

Dang that stinks (about your internet I mean). Understandable about supplying exact amperage and yes I fully agree with the need of adequate reserve.

I am contemplating purchasing a single Sundown Zv4 15 for my two door 2000 Honda Civic EX. I recently cut out nearly the entire back-dash area behind the back seats and below the back window turning the car into a pseudo-hatchback as it is more or less a project car at this point. My first question is what sort of enclosure would be recommended for this particular install. I have heard that sub up port back towards the trunk works well and considering I should have little to no "trunk" left to rattle I figure this would work good for me. I have also heard of sealing off the trunk with sub and port facing forward into the cabin but I do not wish to compete or achieve high numbers or SPL. I like DEEP and powerfully LOW daily driver bass so my second question is what size (cu. ft. wise) and tuning (aero-port wise) would be recommended for one of these subs if I plan on throwing 3000-3500 RMS watts at it daily off of a Crescendo bc3500d? I have heard that a smaller than usually recommended enclosure is best if or when sending a sub more than its rated RMS power and am fully aware of the dangers of exceeding this subs mechanical ability. I just want to have the power necessary to push it to its limits and would like for it to sound as good as possible while doing so. Thanks for any insight or advice, Phil

In response to Dictator I do agree that one can go overboard on wiring. Isn't it true that any amplifier is not even likely to draw its full fuse load but maybe slightly over half at most?

Thank you very much sir. I think I heard a rule of having at least 100ah of battery supply per 2000 watts or so (not sure if its entirely accurate or not though). I do have the big three done as well plus a run of both positive and negative from front battery to back.

Wondering on average how much true amperage the bc3500d draws at 1-ohm. I've heard everything from its 300 amp fuse load to half the fuse rating to one third operationally. Electrical wise I am currently running a 275 amp singer alternator with a yellow top under the hood and one xp3000 in the trunk. Voltage ranges from 13.5-13.8 on a clean signal and drops as low as 13.2 once I start clipping which I know consumes power and produces excess heat. The alt does around 200 amps or so at idle. My question is what if anything beyond my current electrical would be recommended for this upgrade. Thank you in advance for any information. Phil