rushnrun

the P3000D is a better amp than the db-3000b.. The DB-3000B replaced the P1500d (rated 1500 watts at 1 ohm.) the old 1500's were decent,\. The old 1500 is literally half of the old 3000d (the 3000d is two internally strapped 1500d's)

Here's a link to internal pics of the inside of my massive p3000d side by side with a sundown and visonik.. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=25084

I run my kickers at less than one ohm daily good amps but CC better drop their priced more... You can get it cheapier online with a warranty...

not a real woofer (LVL6) it's photoshop'ed.. I'd think the LVL5 10's are more for show than anything..... I've yet to hear any dc woofers though..

The sub is most likly over-rated like their amps.... their 3k amp which probably does 2-2.5k is advertised as a 6k amp... The older woofers were OK but I know nothing of the new ones... The Old DMX's were real efficient compared to most other "monster" woofers of the time

Nice photoshop I'd like to run one of the LVL5 10's other than the mounting issue... I'll have to look into a 12

I Loved/love my old SE12, After 5-6years of ABUSE it's still going strong.. I've TRIED to blow this woofer and it's never blown... I've hooked as much as 5k to it with no real issues (dust cap came loose-probably from cone flex) Posted High 140's (148's+) with the single all sealed on the dash term lab stock class I've thought about buying another New style SE and see how they compare.... I doubt they hold the power like the old one.

Your probably not getting a remote line signal, You can jumper from the pos to the rem on the amp and see if it comes on.. Unhook the line coming from the deck though.. you may have a short inline that is causing your problem. also check the fuses... under the hood, on the amps, ect... But yeah when you get the meter you'll want to test the power and the remote to see what voltage you're getting at the amp

error 12 can be a few things, CD error is the most common... other than that you'll have to check the manual... So now both amps don't turn on? Do you have a volt meter...? You really need to check the voltages at the amps.. sounds like maybe the remote line isn't sending signal at this point (if both amps don't power up)..

What high notes are you wanting??? 40 50 60 70 80 25,000 hz??? Subwoofers are intended to play low? You need to be more specific..

Get a volt meter on the amp and check your voltage at the amp.. Use your remote to turn up the volume till they stop and see if the voltage fluctuates (*sp) If the voltage stays consistant at the amps then you have other issues.... I think it's a poineer issue... Here's a test, turn the headunit all the way down, turn the gain all the way up on the sub amp, turn the head unit up one by one until one of these two things happen:woofer starts to distort or the amps shut off again... if they do it at extremely low volumes (on the deck) then I cannot commit to my standing on it's and issue with the deck... You could even have shorted speaker leads behind the deck.. It'll cause the same issue as you turn the volume up... This is where I stand

well in that case scratch the zx300 off my list and add something a little bigger (I only listed the zx300 because it's the only amp I have in the power range you listed)..... how bout a Massive Audio P1500 @ 2 ohm amps rated at 750 watts at 2 ohm... *I don't blow woofers unless it's on purpose

**I failed to mention that your choices are good ones... I dunno about some huge sealed box though.. the bigger it is the boomier/sloppier it will be (given it's outside it's optimum parameters)..

Well I can

User Error caused woofer failure... Amps don't just blow woofers they need some outside help (from the user). I won't get into details but you can't blaim the amp..

**Uploaded the wrong swiss amp photo... That's just a 600.2 not the 2000A... I'll fix it later today

Well I decided to pull all my "big boys" outta the closet... time for some pics and testing... I'm really doing this to find out which amp will be the most efficient for my next install. The competitors Sundown SAZ3000D, Massive Audio P3000D, Swiss Audio SDX2000A, Clif Designs CD4800LX(amp is sold,pics only) , Visonik 4000

Well I'm always up for testing something out.. 1.) Must all ready own a amplifier with output between 250w-400w @ 2 ohm mono. Must list what amplifier it is. Kicker 08ZX300.1 2.) Must have Stereo installation experience. List your experience. MECA Illinois 2007 State Record holder 2004 Slap Worlds 3rd 149.7 with one 10 stock... Been installing since 2000 3.) Must be an ACTIVE SSA MEMBER with >=75 posts. check 4.) Must do a pictorial or build log of system with in two weeks of receiving subs... check 5.) Must do a medium length review with a decent array of music, listing sample tracks. check 6.) Will post review + build log(pictures) on multiple sites check Jessie W Johnson aka Bill aka HAMSTER aka rushnrun

so what type of music do you listen to?? If you're looking for less boomy and tighter bass a sealed is the way to go.. But I'm just not real sure of your goals. *the L7's aren't the best sounding anyway

did you bypass the ground prong? yep, however it now has a very slight humm and turn off pop :/ on the EP2500's.... I had two that I used for dj use(one on the mains one on the 21" sub)... very reliable... slight hum/hiss at any level... I'd say they're over-rated but they do perform well... **as a note, I was curious about Peavey so I rented a Peavey xr8600(powered-mixer 1200watts 8ohm mono) and it was cleaner, more crisp, tighter bass and had close to the same output as the ep2500 (on the mains)--Please not that I had a behringer mixer hooked to the behringer amp, So I don't know how much that effected the performance of the behringer amp. I just thought it was worth noting that the peavey gear was noticeably better sounding. **I've never used QSC

Well now I'll have to go home and test the 4 ohm output of my 240watt dayton... All I know is at 4 ohm on my 2 8's in a small sealed it's more than plenty of bass for my small/medium sized room... The gain is set about an 8th to blend it with the rest of the system. The 240w plate amps have a pretty annoying hum to them... you can circumvent the hum though..

and with that being said... .75 extra length will make a bigger change than the slight increase of air space not displaced by the .75 length of port. looking at about: .5 hz change in tuning for adding length and .05hz for removing length-from the inside and adding to baffle/increasing net volume.

Not enough to make a difference... it doesn't have to be that exact... it'll tune the box like .002hz lower.... (not an exact just a for instance) not noticeable...

just shave .75" off the port length and make the 2nd baffel identical to the first

Haha... good luck with it if I decided to build you one. I'll start beggin as soon as I get my junk 10 close to 50