rushnrun

And I thought I was the only weirdo that did stuff like that.. I buy the 28cent burritos by the case and eat them for 2-3 meals a day... (i buy a variety of all the "flavors"...baby poo in mild, hot, bean, ect..) When I did that real steady my food bill for the month was less than 80... I picked up the habit to save money to buy new toys.. Now the female keeps me from being able to do that all the time.

what year/type of explorer? how are you planning on getting this in there? Building inside the vehicle? I only ask because the size of box you're posting won't just slide in through a door or a hatch... Make sure you know what you're getting into... **explores get real loud without walls

there for a few

He's 7 and always has something running outta his mouth. When he first saw it he exclaimed: "what the heck dad??? are you some girl??? You need to give that truck to my sister! It's the Dora Explorer!" **it looks much more pinky/purple in person..

Guess I show a pic of the outside It's the barney mobile... My son calls it the "the Dora Explorer"

well just got done removing the rest of the carpet and taking off the factory deadening... ***note to self don't ever use a heat gun to remove deadening in a sealed up vehicle or you may die... wow did it get smokey in there.. I didn't even notice till I snapped the pics.. Good ole headache now that I'm outta there... Pics: Looks like the hatch seal is bad, the whole back is covered in ice... the carpet padding was froze solid.. Guess I'll be fixing that... The bare floor no cleaning that's just how it was, just a little dusty Removing Stock deadening (yes that's smoke):

I've alway built for the dash sealed... I've had much better luck at the dash than the head. This will be my first serious meca build. **and thanks for the offer... I wasn't trying to be and A$$ Just letting you know that I'm no noobie.. There'll be tons of testing and tuning going on for the next month.. so far I tried the NS in 1.5 tuned roughly 35hz and had poor results (there could be other pending issues).. it was in my suburban in a junk box that's been around for ever.. I'll build them their own box one the truck is at that stage, then I'll be able to tell how I'll like them.

they put a stop to the 5amper's You're only allowed one fuse for s1 and 2 for s2 **nothing says the amp has to be run full tilt... ***I'd bet the number are almost equal to last season I use to burp my amps off one fuse.. the multiples just held longer

thanks for the offer... I'm a pretty seasoned builder so I should make it *design is way different in MECA Headrest metering is 2-3 db lower than dash (atleast in my testing) I have a set of stock Nightshades...

I've got a Custom Proto-type 10 being built, however being it'll be the first and only one I'm not sure how it will do (it's just being built with a bunch of "scrap" parts, cone, spider, surround, basket, motor, ect.... are all from different things-not some pre-made recone) I've talk to Sundown about a custon N/S 10... I still havn't had a chance to really use the 12's yet (one is still sealed in the box..I've had them for 3 or 4 weeks) So we'll see how I like the 12's first. Anyhow new woofers are my least of concerns right now. I'll make due with what I have... plus I'll be able to do my number quicker/easier with the 2 12's for now.. (the single 10 and 150+ in a stock class SUV will be some work)

Just wait till you talk to nick... I don't have an answer for you because I do not know

Well I purchased this explorer the Monday 12-22-08. So I've had it a few weeks. The truck is dent free, interior is near perfect, very good find IMO. the only body issue it has is some rust on the rockers (hidden when the door is shut)--It'll be taken to the local shop to get those taken care of. Anyhow this is a fairly undecided build other than it'll fit in the MECA class S1 or S2, needs to do roughly 150-154db (headrest on the T/L) So far I have and think I'm installing: 1 Sundown 3000d, 2 Sundown Nightshade 12's D1 (however I plan on running a single 10" woofer and more power for the final setup--Need a company to get me a big beast of a 10 hint hint..) The HU is a JVC KD-AVX44, gotta have DVD for those long trips to the shows 1/0 wiring Mids and highs will be at a later time-I've got fairly limited time to get this thing ready for the carl casper show next month, followed by SBN in March. It'll be 3way-8" mid-bass, 6.5 mid, and 1" tweets, I've got 3 kicker zx250.2 that will handle the power or one 350.4 and 1 250.2... depends on what space is left over, SPL is the most important in this vehicle.. It's was solely purchased for that reason. Shopping for batts so if anyone knows where I can get a good deal let me know

can't play on dial-up booooo guess I can't play at work

They love them too... just in a different way I don't demo.. I have other (better) things to do with my money..

140 starts to make the ears tingle, 145's is were most people feel unconfortable to be in the car, 150's are just a different story, blurred vision and other issues... I had to get out of my own car at one show to throw up... ahh I miss that car other than I always had a headache... there are a lot of factors though... it depends on where/how we are metering also the meter involved (tl or ac).. I like sealed on the dash for comparison's... however if your a MECA person you meter @ the headrest With my mazda doing 53's sealed on the dash NOBODY would sit in it around here (other than the g/f-she'd always say it wasn't loud to try and get me motivated to work on it) ... the mazda did hair tricks with the doors shut windows up and the girl sitting in the front seat It was very unconfortable to sit in.. I didn't really like it, It's just fun to see the people jump out when the bass hits

75 easier electrical, more solid car... better choice.. (I have no love for a classic Lincoln, I live in a town of Demo Derby'ers )

I've never used it... I just do the math... that box will probably be just about right for the cvr's, they like a big box... the last cvr box I built was roughly 3.5 tuned 35... didn't sound too bad, personally I don't like the sound of the cvr's, but opinions may vary how much port are you planning??

how'd your 18 turn out on the 3000d?

So I was on here like 2 hours ago and everything was fine. I logged on a half hour ago and everything was messed up... so I waited and it's still this way. I can only see the first post in the topic then all the replies are in a very small font in a list on the left hand side of the page. If I click a reply it just reloads the page. SO if anyone knows how to correct this pm me because I won't be able to read replies here

Yeah some of the older GM's are tough.. (the trucks atleast) The Cavi's and sunfire's are some of the easiest ones though.. even the door panel is easy to remove (The CD player removal sucks__ you have to take the whole dash cover off)

He doesn't have to cut anything.. the sunfires have a 6" grill (part of the door panel) and more than enough room to mount the rounds with a mounting plate.. One of the easiest cars to convert imo... Some of the 4x6 plates aren't too bad, however I've had failures in every set I've ever owned... (lanzar, boston, audiobahn)

making the plate will be easy... just look at the ebay pic... the 5.25 plate I used was a plastic plate that the fellas had gotten through crutchfield. I'd get a decent set of 6.5 components (if you can get them to fit.. I'm only certain that the 5.25's fit.. I've never mounted 6.5's there, mounting depth will be your only real issue) Power the comp set off a small amp... a little 100x2 or even 100.4 if you want to try active don't bother changing out the 6x9's.... they'll be fine off the deck, you'll find that you won't even really use/hear them anymore after you upgrade the front..

depending on what options the car has the sunfires have a spot molded in for a tweet right by the woofer.. You can fit a 5.25 in all of them I believe...(no mods, the mounting un-screws and you can put a new plate in it's place... the 95-05's I think are all the same way... I've worked on a few here and there... I know the 95 99 and 05 all are that way.. (I haven't worked on the other years.)

You can put 5.25" in the doors, you just need to make/purchase the adaptor plate with the 5.25's you'll have several options, possibly run a component set if that's something that's in the budget.. I'll let others chime in... *the adaptor plates will not allow for a protruding tweeter on a coaxil... they need to almost be flush..

and for your car... the rear looks similiar in shape to the older honda civics (my original SPL Machine) Depending on where/how you're metering there's a couple different combinations that work well if it's as similiar as it looks.. On the dash sealed I always did better with everything facing back... (the civic didn't have much room... 14x14x36 was my external box size and that took up all but 3" of the trunk...) I did 148.8 with the SE12 sub up ports back on 3.4k... never fired the 12 back... only built the one box for the 12 in that car (nobody else was close to my score so it didn't matter much..) Overall size in the civic (to be legal) was 36x17x15 if accounting for the seats angle the bottom plate could have been 24.. with the top being 17... I knew/still know that car inside and out.. I used it for 4 years straight.. did 151's legal on the dash in a street class with basically 3k and 2 10" woofers.. (diamond audio D5's--not an spl woofer) sorry for the lengthly post