rushnrun

wow.... you need to move a little slower when taking vids.... maybe hold still for a few seconds....

Diffrent animals. kicker's a bit beefier, easy to see... sorry for making a poor comparison....

I've never used the massive amps, I tried to talk a kid into buying my Pair of zx2500's over buying another massive 3000 (he wanted to run one amp per sub). We swapped out his for mine and saw no real change.. He was running them on two new style hcca's

the massive amp is similiar to a zx2500 from kicker... from what I've seen they preform about the same

IMO Birth rating don't mean anything, I highly doubt that they test every amp, more likly 1 out of every hundred or something like that, I ordered 4 zx2500's they arrived with sequential serial numbers and exactly the same birth rating, I would assume that they test one or two out of every run and give all the amps in that run the same birth rating. Kicker amp do put out more than rated power, I'm just saying don't rely on the birthsheet, My tested ouput on my zx2500's were not the same... on the four that birthed the same, I tested within a 200watt span of difference, the median being roughly 2650 @ 2 ohm and a little over 2700@1 ohm, the 750's put out well over 800 watts @2, at one ohm I've tested one at over 900 watts.. good amps but I wouldn't shop around via birthsheet ratings..

That's the exact x-over I was looking at. For now I'm going to run passive (the next couple weeks).. those x-overs are cheap, I stuck the audiosource amp that I bought to run the subwoofer on my mains and it's more than plenty of power so I think I'll run three more of the smaller audiosource amps on the tweets in the towers and on the tweets and mid woofers in the center. should leave me with only needing two of those x-overs and three more amps... only about 600(the audiosource amps are pretty cheap but seem to have plenty of power) I've gone ahead and just bought a dedicated subwoofer plate amp only 250 watt but with the dual 21's that will possibly be mounted IB in the basement I don't think I'll need a ton of power to get my output *I bought the woofer tester program to test the t/s parameters of the 21" subs, just gotta figure out how to work the program

I've got a grasp of what I need and what needs to be done... Just not sure how worthwhile it'll all be. I'm thinking for starters I'll run three amps on my passive setup and see how I like it and go from there... (one amp per tower and one for the center) I like the active idea because I change out tower designs pretty often and it'd be nice to just turn a knob and adjust vs. building new x-overs every time.

Is price shipped?

Port displacement has to be ATLEAST .09 cubic feet or so with a 2.656 cubic foot box and one 4" areo port you'd need a length of 12.75 to get a 28hz tuning so.. pi x r^2 x Length 3.14x4x12.75=160.14cubic inches which converts to .09267 cubic feet 160.14/1728 And as everyone else has stated, run atleast one 6" or 2-4" ports the only issue is you're box will have to be slightly larger and the two ports will have to be roughly 29" long

I vote SE12 over the P3.... My single SE 12 in 1.5cubes tuned 35hz sounded great and got pretty loud. also those woofers can take some serious abuse.. I've retired the woofer but still test with it.. I ran 1700 rms to it for street beating when it was new and have never had an issue.. I got the woofer back in 04 and it still works great-(other than the inner dustcap came loose on a 5k burp)

Anyone here run an active home theater setup? I'm looking at possibly running 4 100 watt bridgeable stereo amps (for mids and highs) and 1 200 watt bridgeable stereo amp (subwoofer) along side an active crossover (behringer or peavey 3way stereo-4 way mono design or something else..?) The end result will probably be a stack of amps hanging in the basement and an infinite baffle subwoofer using the floor as the baffle (I may go ceiling, not sure what will sound better)... I'm not real sure on speakers, I'll be building everything. I'm thinking of making a large "sound bar" center channel with 8 3" woofers and 2 1 1/8" tweeters... I've got some towers from my last passive build that I may use in this app. They're dual 6.5 woofers with a single 1 1/8" tweet (I'll be adding an extra tweet if I reuse these woofers-they're Dayton audio reference series, along with the tweets) The TV (46"LCD) will supply all the a/v mixing of components so I'll just be running the TV out to the x-over and work it out from there.... Other than I may try to hook up and Ipod/mp3 player to the setup separately so the TV doesn't have to be on... Not real sure what I'm getting into... Any input or pointers? Oh yeah it’s a very small living room somewhere in the neighborhood of 15x10 with 9

I'm looking into grabbing up one of those woofers to play with. You still liking the woofer after a couple weeks?

cool... the box was deeper and the port was more narrow than I thought... Missed the f/c that you stated in your post..

rough numbers..... my guess is that you're box is roughly 5cubes net after all displacement, tuned at roughly 45hz... looks to be about 40x18x20ish with a 8x16x20ish slot port.... measure out the box and port dimensions.... unless that box is like 30 inches deep I don't see it being tuned any lower than 40hz... if it was 30 deep it'd give you about a 35hz tuning if my estimates are close.

Looks to be a 90's suburban.... Identical to my 99 suburban consol...

LOVED my solo X 10's I dumped 5 k on one daily for a while (2-zx2500's).. Never had any problems with it (or them.. I had 4 at one time) Bummed that I sold the 10's to get the 18's... *This forum generally hates kicker...

NOT HERE TOO howdy

Tuned to 42 hz wouldn't be something that i would say "sounds good" I understand what you mean, I'm sure it's plenty loud for what it is and sounds decent for what it is. As long as it meets your expetations and you're happy with it... BTW..not a bad score for MECA without aligning/tuning for it..(I'm assuming MECA from the headrest comment) My buddies Full Size Blazer only does 146's in meca but is louder than P!$$ to sit in.... there's a video of it in the build log section. He runs 2 L715's on 2k tuned 30, sounds decent(not great but he likes it), gets VERY loud...

most I stress MOST of the accords I've dealt with peak at 45 hz on the dash-sealed... no clue on outlaw... probably close to the same.. drivers window down would increase spl given those requirements... what ORG?

LOCATION of meter, type of car, ect.. would help a little as well... with your tuning I'd say rear firing should be louder....

**that post was suppose to read "not accounting for impedence rise"

1.5 cubes tuned 35 I've burped that sub off 5k in that box... did mid-high 140's in my Mazda 6 at the headrest (meca)... but only for a burp.. the dust cap came loose on it so now it just rattles around inside the woofer.. *** I need to point out that my last results the 25 an 30 hz readings belong under run 2

rear fire.... ports and sub...

If I'm seeing what I think..... that design=bad idea...... two round ports on top and 4 slot ports in front with one square port in the rear??? is that what your box builder is suggesting....? **Looks like they may not have a clue.... or.....????

thummper I hope you have plenty of batts for those amps.. they are some power hungry beast..