Impious

If it helps, Bravox has a PAS Mag review hosted on their site: http://bravoxaudio.com/download/05.pdf

I'm not cool enough to be able to view the thread

You wouldn't need a 4ohm load, he was just posting the picture for example purposes. Most 2-channel amps are stable to atleast 2ohm stable per channel, and some are 1ohm stable per channel (which I believe the RF Power amplifiers are 1ohm stable per channel). As long as the final impedance is a load the amplifier is stable at, that's all that matters.

I'm assuming your question is specifically regarding active? The Zed Leviathan would be a very solid option for a 6-channel amp to run 3-way active. Most other 6-channels on the market offer pretty measly power output @ 4ohm per channel. The other option ofcourse is to just run more than one amplifier.

Bump for extended GB pricing!

You know what they say, the best form of flattery is imitation. If SSA wasn't such a leader, the others wouldn't be so eager to follow!

....for a Butterworth filter

I'm pretty sure the 800PRS offers a bandpass crossover.

Actually the Shiva-X really has nothing in common with the Adire Shiva other than the name. The Shiva-X is actually much more comparable to the Brahma series. The subs are excellent. I run a Shiva-X (original version, not the -X2) in my car and absolutely love it. High quality design and build, great sound quality, and more than sufficient output for my needs. Plus Kevin @ Exodus is a really helpful guy and great to do business with. As for power handling, why do you ask? Keep in mind they were not designed to be an SPL monster. I run mine IB so I'm not using a level of power anywhere near the driver's thermal limits. You really shouldn't need more than rated power to get the driver to do what it was designed and intended to do.

I don't know much about DC subwoofers specifically, but a coil change could potentially affect Qts and Fs which will change various aspects of the drivers performance and enclosure requirements.

What's the model # ?

It is really all relevant to the conversation. Yes, technically you would have a "3-way system", you are correct there. Where you get confused is that when most people are talking about the "-way" with regards to speakers, they aren't including the subwoofer. So if someone says they are running "2-ways" they have a tweeter and mid, and "3-ways" are a tweeter, midrange and midbass. If you consider their system as a whole, someone with 2-way front speakers would have a 3-way system, and a 3-way front stage would have a 4-way system. But you also have conversations regarding to crossovers/processors/headunits, in which case the "-way" needs to include the subwoofer. A 3-way headunit can highpass (for the tweeter), bandpass (for the mid) and lowpass (for the sub). A 4-way process has a highpass (for the tweeter), usually 2 bandpass channels (one of the midrange, one for the midbass) and lowpass (for the subwoofer). Crossovers/processors/headunits are also talked about in terms of channels. A 6-channel headunit has 6 individual outputs (front left, front right, rear left, rear right, sub left, sub right), however that headunit may or may not be a 3-way headunit. If the front and rear channels can only be highpassed, but not bandpass, it's not really a 3-way headunit. But if it can bandpass either the front or rear channels then it would be considered a 3-way headunit. An 8-channel processor may or may not also be a 4-way processor in the same way. Confused yet? Yes, there has been an 8-channel 4-way headunit; the Clarion DRZ9255. There are also 4-way processors; the JBL MS-8 and Alpine H701 for example. You can also use a 6-channel "2-way" headunit (front and rear channels can only be highpass) to create a "3-way system" by using the lowpass crossover on the amplifier in conjunction with the highpass in the headunit to create a bandpass on one of the channels. I think some people stopped including the subwoofer in the "-way" for the entire system with the advent of surround sound, where the subwoofer channel started being denoted as ".1" in the terminology (5.1, 7.1, etc). But yes, if you have a tweeter, mid and subwoofer you have a "3-way system", but a "2-way front stage".

Both Brad and I have 603CF's on the way. I cannot wait. They can't arrive soon enough

Yes, 7" mids only. And they don't sell complete "component sets", only the midbass (and I think they might offer outsourced tweeters, I really don't know off hand). But they do not offer any passive crossovers, so you would have to run active if you wanted to go that route. As for rear speakers.....my kids have no problem hearing the music in the back of my full size sedan without any rear speakers, even at moderate volume levels.

Something like this? As to your original question; I agree with the others. For your goals, a nice single or pair of 12's IB would be more than sufficient. Keep it simple. I run a single Shiva-X IB in my vehicle (not the Dcon pictured, that was just for the review) with what I would consider to be great results. And the baffle is painted black now so it looks a lot better Oh, and I can still fit anything I want in my trunk, which was also my goal. EDIT: I missed the part where you wanted to keep functionality of the folding rear seats. You could hang the subs from the rear deck firing towards the rear window, just won't have much bass with the seats down.

If nothing else, print out this thread to take with you. I'd think the reply from Nick would be sufficient to require him to give you a refund.

It will be something like this

I've heard nothing but good things about the new XS series from ID. I'd really like to hear a pair some time.

So we know at minimum you are going to need to at minimum spend some $ on upgrading some wires as Phatboi said. Sounds like you pretty much understand what's necessary there. Depending on where you get your wire and how much you need, you'll probably end up spending ~$50 or so on that. Working on a budget, welding cable is a great option. I'll let others give you links if you need. I wouldn't necessarily spend $ on a battery yet. I would recommend saving some money back so that you aren't taxing your budget in the event you need one, but I'd recommend getting everything installed first and seeing how your electrical system behaves before spending money. It's up to you though. If you want to buy one now so that you have it, more power to you (does that qualify as a pun?). I generally dislike giving specific production recommendations since there are so many products available and it's hard to account for everyone's taste and preferences. Generally I try to stick with getting the conversation headed in the appropriate direction and let others take over from there But I would keep the system no larger than around ~1kw or so in power given the electrical you'll be running. You are obviously going to want a ported enclosure (seems like you already have that under control) and subwoofers designed primarily for that purpose. I'm not sure off hand how much space an Altima has, or the setup of the rear seats. But you are probably going to be best served with either a pair of 12's or a single 15, possibly a pair of 15's if you have enough space for a proper enclosure. An 18" would also "work", but finding the room in a trunk car to fit a proper ported enclosure is generally difficult. If you are going to sacrifice the rear seats, I'd suggest you try a setup where the subs fire forward from the trunk through the rear seat opening and seal off the trunk from the cabin. If you want some options for products, check out the SSA store and product offerings from some of the manufacturers here on the site. I know they offer some products that will fit your goal. The SSA Dcon, Sundown SA-12 and Fi SSD will offer good ported enclosure performance at affordable prices. I don't want to sound like I'm just hocking our brands here, but they are good quality affordable products (which is why they are here on the site!) so it's a good place to start

Who ever told you that are idiots, stop taking stereo advice from them. Technically there is nothing "wrong" the concept. It has been and is used in different genres of audio reproduction; Pro audio, for example. However, it's used in pro audio because 1) their "smaller" (i.e. 12") drivers might not reach down very low in frequency extension while their larger drivers (18's, for example) might be used in horns that have a narrow bandwidth of efficiency, 2) their spaces are so large they get little reinforcement assistance from the environment, and 3) they aren't dealing with as many space restrictions. So in their particular scenarios, it is a good solution. However, in car audio our subwoofers of just about any diameter are fully capable of adequately covering the entire bass and subbass frequency range, we get a large benefit in subbass reinforcement from cabin gain, and we are dealing with extremely limited space restrictions. Many people get the idea that you "need to separate to the bass to cover the entire spectrum" from the misconception that large diameter drivers can't play higher frequencies as well as "smaller" diameter drivers can. However, this couldn't be further from the truth. The diameter of the driver actually has very little to do with how well the driver plays higher frequencies (within the scope of this conversation, which is focused on bass reproduction). It is entirely possible for a 12" driver to have worse high frequency extension and performance than an 18" driver. It's a simple fact of physics. Given the limited amount of real estate in a vehicle, and the ability of our drivers to more than adequately reproduce the entire bass/subbass region, the need to use multiple different sizes of drivers and "separate" that narrow bandwidth of frequencies is simply asinine and a completely unnecessary waste of space, time and money. Run a single size, you will not be missing out on anything. A single 18" driver will be more than capable of covering the entire spectrum. And while 95Honda is correct that nothing will actually be damaged by running different drivers of a different impedance within the same system; it just isn't a very intelligent way to go about things. As I mentioned, they will be receiving different amounts of power which means you more than likely will not be maximizing the capabilities of all of the drivers. They will have different response characteristics which will likely not "blend" very well. And as he mentioned, you may run into thermal or mechanical limitations with one driver before the others. It just overall is a poor execution. If you weren't getting the output you were wanting with your prior system, then the problem was probably either a case of poor equipment selection for the goal, or poor installation/setup execution for the goal. No offense, but given what you've said so far in this thread, I would have to guess the issue is probably a combination of both. So; Let's start from the beginning. Forget what your friends have said, they've proven themselves uninformative and unhelpful. We're going to start from scratch and get you headed in the right direction. What equipment do you have?What are the goals for your system?What equipment are you willing to sell? (sell off the equipment that you don't need so you can buy equipment you do need)What is your budget?What vehicle do you have?What type of electrical system does your vehicle have?How much space are you willing to sacrifice?

Pretty bad idea. Don't run those subs together. For starters, they will receive different amounts of power. What subs are they?

What exactly are you trying to achieve? What are your goals in terms of sound quality, imaging, output, etc? What is your budget, and what processing do you have to work with?

:drink40: Great thread here Aaron and Don!

So your plan was instead to defraud your potential customers by posting pictures of enclosures you didn't build? You obviously have a camera.....you didn't think it was a better plan to just wait to start a thread until you had pictures of better built enclosures that were your own work? I don't like this thread at all. For one, you're trying to generate personal income from this forum without any benefit to the forum itself by means of advertising, becoming a supporting vendor with your own subforum....hell, you're not even a supporting member. And to top it off, your initial business plan was to attempt to defraud everyone by claiming other peoples work as your own in order to generate business. Thread closed. I really don't see the point in allowing this to continue any further.