Impious

No, it's all bullshit marketing.

For Shizzle. I've had TOOL lyrics in my sig for all 10 years of my Internet forum days.

Surprised I forgot our bdays were so close.If I had a bromance, it would be with him.

New drivers sound interesting, including the new neo driver. Any word on the shallow mount ? And any interest in making a high excursion neo SQ driver similar to the UL12 in performance only without the ridiculous price CMass was asking?

Do you seal the seams of the enclosure ? Do you recommend people seal the seams of the enclosure ? The porosity of the wood, and leaks at the seams of an enclosure ARE THE SAME THING. Using your logic, air leaks at the seams don't matter. Don't caulk, don't use wood glue. They don't matter. This is what you are suggesting. The ONLY difference is that seams that leak can cause rather large losses if severe enough whereas the porosity of the wood is rather low loss. But they are otherwise the same thing. So, stop sealing the seams of your enclosure. The cone moves inward on the negative half of the wave. There is the same amount of air molecules in the enclosure, but less volume for that air to occupy. What is the air going to do ? During this compression phase, if there is somewhere for the air to escape it will try to escape. It doesn't matter if it's a poorly sealed seam or the wood itself.

Still building an enclosure behind it and going ported ?

Thank you.

Your understanding is wrong. If a speaker doesn't move air, how does it create sound ? A heating element would be an example of an item that excites air molecules, but doesn't "push" the air. A speaker creates sound by compression and rarefaction (decompression) of the air. This cycle creates pressure waves that travel through the air creating sound waves. The frequency is determined by the number of cycles per second, the amplitude is determined by the volume of air displaced by the speaker (or literally the amount of air that the speaker moves with each cycle). The speaker is also compressing and decompressing the air inside of the enclosure with each cycle...which is why things like leaks in the enclosure's seams (which according to your logic would likewise not matter) and the porosity of the wood matter to a certain extent. You don't want giant leaks in the seams and you don't want to use an excessively porous enclosure material.

Yes MDF is porous. However for the average daily user the affect is negligible and the time and cost of the resin is completely unnecessary for what is an otherwise unnoticeable difference in performance. By the way most enclosure programs can include leakage losses (Ql) in the response calculations....so the leakage loss of the wood, assuming a reasonable value is used for Ql, is already accounted for in the design of the enclosure.

Don't use a DMM to set the gain. Set it by ear.

Curious why you are porting the midrange ? Do you need to extend their low end to mate with the midbass ? Guessing those midbass are the underhung TB's. Never realized how massive that motor structure was.

V^2/R = P 12^2/4 = 36w into a 4ohm speaker. 1V into a 4ohm speaker is .25w

I'm more concerned by the fact you smoked the coil of your current subwoofer within 4 months of installing it. $40 or not there's no reason it should have went out so quick outside of user error. Fix your install/tuning issue or you're just going to be in the market for another sub in another 4 months when you blow this replacement and completely blow your "strict system budget" by continually replacing subs.

And it sounds super cool on the internet when you can tell people that it's "custom"

This. Get a recone from IA. Not even sure why you would be looking anywhere else.

I don't have the time for a wall...LOL But for any other type of install or construction help I have no problem lending a hand or making some sawdust with my tools.

It's basic Ohms Law. http://www.bcae1.com/ohmslaw.htm http://www.bcae1.com/srsparll.htm

If you're still in Fort Wayne I have no problem building it for you/with you. I have all the necessary tools. I'm only 30 minutes north of the city.

Ideally you would model the driver in your desired enclosure before purchasing one to verify the response meets your needs.However when initially looking for drivers to select a good staring point is to calculate the driver's Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP). EBP = Fs/Qes If the EBP is 50 or less it is best suited for a sealed enclosure. Between 50 to 90 or 100 the driver will work reasonably well in either ported or sealed. Above 90 to 100 the driver would work best ported. So as you can see it isn't ONLY about Qts, you have to take Q in relation to Fs to determine what type of enclosure the driver is most suited towards.

That's all on Sean. I don't want/need money for anything. Me neither. Ryan gets ze gift.If both of you are bowing out, and Adrian feels obligated to pay someone....I have no problem accepting funds

Still way more expensive than standard ported. As Alton said the PR needs to have 2x the displacement of the sub, so you would probably need 2 18" VMP's. I don't see the small amount of space savings being worth the cost.

Meh

For $1 seems like a hell of a deal......

You will not damage anything, it's not even possible. Try it both ways, leave it which ever way sounds the best when played with the rest of the system. Otherwise it honestly does not matter. All that matters is how it sounds. When it sounds best, then that's when it's wired in correct acoustic polarity.

Yeah, I don't know both line ups well but at least some of the amps between the two brands are identical boards in different heat sinks. "After snooping around inside it, I expected the amp to sound good, and I wasn’t disappointed! The PC640.4 is one of the more musical car stereo amps I’ve heard in a while. The amplifiers sonics were very similar to my studio reference amplifier, and that’s saying something...." - Garry Springgay - PASMag Review Sorry...just saw this, couldn't resist! I'm mobile so emoticons don't work for me...but imagine me shooting myself on the head right now.