Impious

Dick doesn't run the whole show over there, Best Buy is set up just like any other international multi billion dollar company. Think of it. Rockford isn't run by audiophiles, it's run by business men who have an obligation to the investors, not to steer the company in a less profitable direction because they want to deal with "core audio". The people in the board room don't give a shit what Rockford produces, sells or how it works, all they care about is making the company money, their salaries depend on it. RF making money is directly related to what RF produces, sells, and how and where it's sold. It would be impossible to make business decisions at that level without an understanding of what the market is demanding, what the market will support, how RF's product mix in both features and qualities as well as price fits with those demands and how RF's products compare to it's competitors, what markets it wants to compete in and how it wants to compete in them, etc. That's a pretty naive view to take. There are several reasons why a company may choose to pull out of the "big box" market. The Man Who Said No To Walmart Given your posts in this thread, I'd gander a guess you don't much understand business.

Best Buy isn't a corporation with a Board of Directors? That's interesting considering their stock is traded on the NYSE and their website lists the members of the board of directors.

You're post provides nearly no information. Since you already have the enclosure and are not willing to change the enclosure, details of the enclosure would be extremely pertinent information. Pretty much impossible to recommend a sub without knowing the enclosure it'll be used in. A budget would also be very useful information. And by budget we don't mean "Something not too expensive, don't want to break the bank". An actual dollar amount. Knowing your goals for the subwoofer's performance is likewise required in order to effectively answer your question. Is your focus primarily good sound, high output, a good mix of both, care about one but not the other?

Arc builds solid amps. No idea which would be "better" as we have no idea what you're using it for or what you're goal is.....

What do you mean "minimal impedance"? What impedance is your amplifier stable at? As for wiring; JL Audio - Car Audio Systems

Word of warning; Turning your hobby into your career can make the hobby side much less fun since it becomes "work". Doesn't happen to everyone, but happens a lot. I prefer to keep my hobbies just that, a hobby, for exactly that reason. Don't expect to open a shop selling a bunch of brands that are unknown in your area and make a killing because you think those brands are great. Consumers typically buy what they know about, or don't buy what they've never heard of before. Lastly....it's a really tough field to make a living at. IMO start out small as a part time thing and see how it goes. As far as degrees; I would agree with the previous poster that it's probably a better idea to go to school in a field that is multi-purpose. Business, electrical or mechanical engineering, etc. IMO those "car audio" schools are a waste of money for what they teach and the price they charge.

Even if he doesn't have the hard copy, it's pretty trivial to look it up on Pioneer's website. Assuming it's not ancient, it should be available on their website.

In all seriousness, it would greatly help if you told us what model of CD player you have. Also, have you checked the troubleshooting section of the manual? Typically error codes or messages are all spelled out in detail including the problem and how to resolve the problem.

Sounds like you need to check the CD core.

8ohm and 4ohm in parallel is 2.67ohm, not 6ohm. If the two speakers are different impedances they will receive different amounts of power, respective to their impedance. The 8ohm speaker will receive half the power of the 4ohm speaker in either configuration (series or parallel). My initial guess with extremely limited info would be that the front speakers are 4ohm and the rear speakers are 8ohm; so when they were wired in series the overall power level was less so the speakers were both quieter and as a result the difference in respective output appeared greater than when the speakers were wired in parallel.

I'm confused......

I can't help but chuckle at the people running 4kw+ on a pair of drivers in a "daily" system. Considering the power compression occurring and the general inefficiencies involved....how little of an audible benefit they are receiving for all of that additional money spent on the amplifier and additional electrical required to support such a system.

Router with a circle jig is what you need to make a perfect circle. If you don't have those, use a Jigsaw and a steady hand. That's what I did for years...

You'll be fine. Just use common sense when setting your gain and don't use bass boost/etc.

Answer's Here

Looks good

Why are you still looking at RF speakers? As for 2 sets.....not a great idea unless you have the knowledge and experience to understand what needs to be done to set them up properly. My previous posts were filled with good advice.

thats true and i probably will end up getting something a little less than the 1000 watt.... would the difference between 500 watts and 1000 be worth double the price ($200 vs $400) The maximum difference would be 3db.....audible but not a night and day difference. Whether or not the difference is worth the price is up to you. If it were me using it on a temporary basis a 3db increase in output would not be worth double the price.

You're idea wouldn't really be the best way to go about things. If you were trying to increase output over a given bandwidth, you're best option would be to go with a properly designed (i.e. not a prefab) bandpass enclosure. But without knowing what you were trying to accomplish, it's hard to give any specific recommendations.

Because their batteries tend to explode? Powermaster 4 lyfe False. Not false. You just haven't seen the thread What causes an exploded battery? - Realm of Excursion Maybe asking where or how I got the information or where I'd seen it would have been wise before just using a blanket and blind "huurrr FALSE". Hey there! It appears that you've exceeded the maximum number of posts you can view, but wait, there's a simple solution. To unlock the forum and continue viewing messages, all you need to do is sign up for a free account. The entire process takes just a few minutes so create your account now and view as many threads as you like! Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message. I'm not going to register on another one of Ant's monopoly of forums just to read a single thread. But "tend to" indicates that it's a problem with the majority of their batteries when the simple matter of fact is that far more of their batteries provide years of faithful service than the number that fail. Yes, if you search the forums you will find threads about Kinetik batteries that had some kind of problem. But guess what? You can find that about any battery used in this industry. You don't think Powermasters fail? But I don't go around spouting off about how all Powermasters tend to explode and fail because I read a thread on the internet. It happens, and generally when a product does fail the person using it fails to tell the full story and about how it was used and abused prior to failure. So I wouldn't exactly rely on a thread on an internet forum as indisputable proof to validate a certain viewpoint or trend for a entire brand. Lastly, without having in-depth knowledge of actual return rates and reasons for failures (etc) for both Kinetik and Powermaster you can not actually demonstrate with any validity that Kinetiks tend to fail more frequently than Powermasters. I'm not talking internet topics....actual verifiable #'s from the companies. So yes.......false, as I originally stated. Although it is fairly humorous that out of our conversation, you think I'm the one throwing around blind blanket statements when you opened with "their batteries tend to explode"...... Hmmm....that sounds like a pretty blind blanket statement to me......

Why would I ride in the back seat of my own car? I'm not wealthy enough to have a chauffeur......yet. My setups sound pretty close from both the left and right seating positions. Some differences of course as it's impossible to optimize the sound for two different seating positions given the constraints we deal with in a vehicle. So I focus on optimal sound @ the drivers side without completely neglecting the passenger side.

Out of only those two options, I would go with the Arc personally. But there are also more affordable options I would choose before either of them.

I recommended the Dayton just because it was cheap and would get you by until the sub sold. I didn't think you'd want to spend $400 on a decent high powered home amp that would power the Q to it's full potential.

Unfortunately there will not necessarily be any correlation between the parameters for the sub you "found" and your particular subwoofer considering we know at the very least the coils are different. As M5 pointed out, it was unfortunately a noobie mistake to buy a sub without knowing anything about it. I would recommend trying to getting in contact with the seller and see if he can provide accurate T/S parameters. Without them, we can't help you with enclosure selection. I'd hope the seller would be able to provide accurate T/S parameters.....but unfortunately we also have no way to verify their accuracy, which makes it sort of a crap shoot.

First I'd check to make sure you didn't accidently set the DMM to Vdc. Second I'd pull the HU out of the dash, disconnect all non-essential wiring (speaker wires, all RCA's, etc) and then check the output voltage at the pigtails themselves. If it's still low, check the HU's fusing and any fuses on the HU's power wire, and then check to make sure the HU is receiving the appropriate voltage from the electrical system.