Impious

Same way you find the area of a circle. A = Pi * r2 Radius is simply half the diameter, so to make life simple just replace "r" with Diameter/2 So for the 12" with a diameter of 23.92cm (his measurements are mm, but Sd is typically stated in cm2 so we'll convert it the measurement to cm). Pi * (23.92/2)2 = ~449cm2 That's with the 1/2 surround method Jacob used. I don't know if that's what he uses in his standard T/S parameters or if that was simply to make the measurement easier. There is also a 1/3 surround standard that some companies use...mentioning that to keep in mind that Sd isn't always directly comparable unless the same measurement method was used. Jacob probably knows better than myself, but I believe the industry is trending more towards the 1/2 surround method.

108 5.25" drivers.

They are all very transparent. When you have been on a forum for years and just recently start replying to threads you never have before, we know what is up. You mean like now having a product you're trying to sell ?

As Quentin already pointed out, that is an entirely false premise as well, from both a fidelity and price standpoint.

Completely depends on the crossover frequency and the dimensions of the tweeter/mounting apparatus compared to the wavelength of the frequencies the mid is playing. It is entirely possible for the tweeter to not be "visible" acoustically to the response of the mid.

False. Jud; You need to better describe your system layout and potential budget in order for us to provide any real assistance. Those speakers are marine grade....is this for a boat?

I've seen far more quality designed and built 6+ channel amplifiers than I have crap. You must not be looking in the right places.

They need to pull that site down ASAP and contact LFNTN. Their first impression doesn't look so good Not to mention the name makes me feel like I'm dealing with someone from the ghetto. Tac; do you have the tools and skills to build your own enclosure?

I sincerely dislike that website and it's owner for the simple fact he literally steals, direct copy-n-pastes, entire write-ups and information without any reference or credit to the source. In fact several of the pages have his copyright at the bottom, when he copy-n-pasted the information from somewhere else.

I dislike the black plate over the center section of the amp, I liked the smoked plexi as on the older GTO series. Otherwise, I didn't think it was cheap looking/feeling. The silver sections over the heatsink appeared to be aluminum whereas I thought they would be plastic. The crossover section offers bandpass on the rear outputs, although the crossover frequencies would only work for a true midbass and not a 2-way. However, neither of mine came with mounting screws or fuses, which it appears they should have.

Have you tried searching? This question comes up very often, and the answer is always the same.

Not a good plan, at all. You need to take a step back and slow down.

That's more than likely not the amp's fault.

No problems. It will work perfectly fine.

And yet ironically your very first post in this thread may have very well done that, since you don't even know the information that opinion was based. It would also help significantly to know the goals of the OP's system. If this is a daily driver and not for numbers than honestly any power measurements (even if properly conducted, which clamp tests aren't if that's what you are relying on) are going to be meaningless. Those two amps will be close enough in power to make no audible difference.

You made the statement.....why can't you give us the details?

Need more details. Goals? Budget? More details on mounting locations/installation. When you say "four 6.5's and two tweeters up on the pillar", is that four 6.5's total (one per door)? Both tweeters on the A-pillars? What do you have for processing?

We've had 3" wide surrounds since the '90s. Looks like you've essentially just made them taller. I don't know that I'd call that an innovative progression. There have been some other innovations during that time that allowed not only for suitable surround geometry to meet an excursion goal but also not eat into Sd at the same time (actually it increased Sd)....and that was a decade ago. I'd be interested in seeing some actual measurements of the linearity of that surround compared to some of the more standard implementations. Any issues with additional stress placed upon the cone?

If that is the test from 5-7 years back, there were several problems with the test methodology that would render the results of that test void. It didn't "prove" anything. There are only 5 things that can contribute to a "sonic character" of any amplifier, regardless of topology; Power, distortion, noise, frequency response and gain. For two amplifiers to sound different, there must be an audible (not just measurable, but audible) difference in one of these categories. Nothing else matters, literally. It is entirely possible to build an amplifier of any of the usual classes (A, A/B, D, etc) where the distortion is inaudibly low, the noise is inaudibly low and frequency response is inaudibly flat. That leaves differences in power and gain structure. It is also possible to build an amplifier of any of the usual classes where the distortion is audible, noise is audible, or the frequency response has audible deviations. What does this mean? The class of the amplifier doesn't mean anything. Two amps can sound indistinguishable, and two amps can sound different.....but it has nothing to do with the class of the amplifier and everything to do with the 5 items previously listed.

They generate a tracking number shortly after the order is processed, or during the order processing on their end. That doesn't mean the sub is being shipped out, they've just generated a tracking number. After it's built and shipped the tracking status will change. It will be several weeks.

It's all about contact surface area. The larger the contact area the better. From your description it sounds like you want to essentially be able to screw the set screw into the insert....is that correct?

You have to get lucky and catch it, but from time to time it does happen. A few years ago the stores had the Alpine PDX amps on close out for less than they went for unauthorized on ebay. For $100 shipped that's an excellent deal. JBL electronics are always quality. I might grab a couple just to keep around.

I haven't played with the modeling yet, but define "best" ? Every enclosure and tuning has a specific goal. The goals set as a priority to recommend the .5cuft enclosure are obviously different than those used by SSA to determine what they recommended as the optimal enclosure volume. Everything is a give and take in this hobby.....when you change things to improve one area, you give up something in another area. There is no "best" enclosure, there are only enclosures better suited to one particular goal or another. As for small signal versus large signal....that's not what Q was referring to. In WinISD the power is only used to approximate output under ideal circumstances (SPL goes up and down with power). What Q was referring to was the power level used to measure and calculate the Thiele Small Parameters of the driver. What power you plug into WinISD and what drive level is used to measure the T/S Parameters are not related in the slightest.

You math is correct, except you took the long way. 33 * .75 = 24.75 = 1/2 octave

ehh then i lose treble You must have a very interesting interpretation of what music is supposed to sound like. More is not better. And interestingly, by reducing the number of point sources you would probably lose some peak output but also gain output in the areas where destructive interference is occurring.