Impious

Only if he takes the time to understand why the tests were inaccurate and flawed to start with. This is the main problem, not just with the OP but in general....people do some test and then don't understand what was wrong with the test methodology/etc.

General rule of thumb is that the Fs should be half of the frequency at which you intend to cross the driver. Obviously reality isn't as cut-and-dry as that, but it's a good rule of thumb to think about when scrolling through tweeters looking for options. I.E. if you want to cross around 2khz to mate up with your mid, you would want a tweeter with an Fs in the vicinity of 1khz.

thanks man yea i tried thier email but no response :[ yea i would buy from ssa if the price wasnt so high im buying a bunch and im a competitor so i have a ton of stuff i have all ready thrown money for on this hoping they can get back to me So you basically want to get them at a discount because otherwise they are out of your price range? Simple solution is to either 1) buy what you can afford instead, or 2) save up more money. SSA isn't expensive...they are selling them for the price they are supposed to be sold for.

They're probably not. The opposite is much more likely. There's your answer.

The moment I saw the term "box rise" I lost all faith in the device.

One important factor related to this discussion is not just where he is in relation to Xmax, but also how much power he plans to add since we can calculate the difference in acoustic output. In this case he asked about doubling power which would be a difference of 3db before power compression. Based on the power level it's pretty safe to assume he's going to have several db of power compression occurring as well, which is going to nullify most projected increase in output. So really, we can ignore for a moment where he is in relation to Xmax and still presume the upgrade to be a waste of money for a daily driver.

Statements such as this make absolutely no sense. The difference between 1200w and 2kw is 2.2db before power compression, which is going to be atleast 1db at that power level. So the difference is going to be for the most part inaudible.

Definitely not worth spending the money for that particular upgrade, especially for the minimal audible difference in a daily driver.

I didn't think my comments or M5's were that vague, but I'll reword it a little more bluntly. I would fully expect both the Alpine Type X and the Type R to be better engineered and better performing speakers than the Sundown. Which means I would expect both of them have the potential to sound better than the Sundown. So why in this situation you would choose the Sundown is beyond me. Yes they are cheaper, but given the start of this thread you never said you were on a $155 budget....so why not choose one of the better options?

Then look at it objectively from a design point of view. I believe myself and M5 have given you some very good points to consider in this regard, and you've blatantly ignored them and instead trudged down your path of fanboyism based on the name stamped on the box. Again, then consider it from an objective point of view. See my above comments. Of course it is. They have the least overhead and least engineering behind them.

They've never built a subwoofer I would have any interest in owning, personally. I didn't say their designs are terrible. They aren't that special either. And they aren't going to be the best option in any or every particular scenario. In this case, you have the Alpine Type X which uses Scanspeak sourced drivers, who is one of the most respected speaker companies in the world. The Alpine Type R uses some interesting technologies such as a split gap motor with shorting ring designed to reduce distortion. And then the Sundown, which I don't see anything "special" about and they use an excessively high crossover point (probably because of cheaper tweeter that can't cross low) but you like them because of the name that's stamped on the box.......

Your logic makes no sense. That is the fanboyism that keeps many of these internet brands chugging along.

Knowing nothing more than the limited info Sundown has released about them and the information available on the Alpine's....I'd much rather go with one of the Alpine comps....

The only useful piece of information on that webpage is the mounting depth. So why should I beleive any other companies advertisements? I never said you should? Advertising with supporting empirical evidence and information is something that is atleast worth a glance. I'm not going to promise it's always going to be accurate, but it's atleast a good start and a step in the right direction. A companies subjective evaluation of their own product (which they are trying to sell you) with little to no actual information, such as that Crescendo link, is simply useless. Heck, they don't even have T/S listed to get an idea of the low end performance or how it will perform IB in a door. It's simply "we think this speaker sounds great, so you will too" followed by suggesting it be used in completely inappropriate situations....which leaves me wondering if they know better but are simply trying to sell a product to the ignorant masses, or if they don't know any better themselves. Crescendo has taken extreme liberties in describing their products in the past when advertising them...no reason to expect they wouldn't do the same again.

Anything that has mass is technically a "sound stopper" to some degree. The question is how effectively does it block sound? For that you need to know it's mass/density. The science of it can be broken down into really simple terms; Double the mass and transmission loss increases 6db.

I believe that is the problem here. He didn't receive an email receipt or any notification from Fi that they have actually received the order. He's tried emailing them to confirm they have the order but hasn't gotten a response. I'm presuming he's mostly likely concerned there was some type of system glitch where he paid for an order that didn't go through on their end....which is a more than reasonable concern.

Entirely depends on what features you need and/or want. Do you need Ipod control, for example? Do you need USB connectivity? Bluetooth? What does the rest of your system consist of?

The only useful piece of information on that webpage is the mounting depth.

MLV is typically sold in either 1/8" thickness (1lbs/sqft) and 1/4" thickness (2lb/sqft). For adhesive you would want HH-66 vinyl cement. I'm not sure what rockwool is, honestly, but you don't really need a mass barrier on the ceiling as there isn't much noise that penetrates through the roof. I'm sure you can find MLV in Canada, though if there are any sources within driving distance I can't guaranty. It's truly about mass and proper decoupling when it comes to blocking noise. You can use about anything as long as you can create a solid barrier (i.e. no gaps) of substantial mass. As I said before, 1/4" thick MLV has a mass of 2lbs/sqft. If you came up with something of equivalent mass that creates a solid barrier yes it would work the same as long as it was also properly decoupled. However, you'll have to weigh the net cost, application time and workability to determine if there is truly a better alternative. There is a reason MLV is so prevelant.....from an ease of application, mass per area, and time and cost effectiveness it's only really beat by Lead which is much more expensive and harder to work with. Hell, on another forum there was a guy who bought a bunch of close-out aluminum foil for really cheap and wrapped it around a cardboard cutout. Net result was something that weighed ~1lbs/sqft for much less cost than MLV....but it was much thicker and how much time did he spend wrapping aluminum foil around cardboard to achieve a mass of 1lbs/sqft? I'm guessing a really, really long time.

2-way front stage, which would be a 3-way system (2-way front stage + subwoofer) is what M5 was referring to. While there isn't a definitive guide to the absolute "right" way to do things, there are some basic tenants to acoustics that it's generally a good idea to follow. A bullet tweeter in a 2-way front stage is just a bad idea all the way around for several different reasons. Real midbass from a high efficiency 6.5" midrange isn't going to happen. If your goal is to simply create a system that makes sound, regardless of resulting performance, then by all means purchase whatever you want, install it how ever you want, tune it how ever you want and enjoy the abomination that results. However, he didn't come on here asking for something that simply makes sound without regard to performance. He specifically asked for something that would result in reasonable sound quality. And while his goal was extremely vague, the equipment he was inquiring about was undoubtedly not something anyone with basic understanding of acoustics would recommend for creating a front stage of reasonable sound quality. IMO suggesting he ignore sound advise (no pun intended) simply because it's "his money and his system" when he came here specifically seeking advise on his choice before spending the money is rather asinine and counter-productive. He obviously is at minimum the least bit interested in the "science of it all" because he came here specifically to ask the question before purchasing the equipment. Just because you didn't like the answers he was given doesn't make the advise bad. There are plenty of options that would result in much better performance for his vaguely goals than what he had selected. Hell we didn't even get into the science of why....simply advised him that it wasn't a wise decision for his loosely stated goals, which is exactly what he asked.

SS price might be better (haven't checked), but Don's "price" also comes with an extremely methodical system for achieving your goals with the least but most effective amount of material and an extremely detailed and comprehensive plan for deadening the vehicle, applying the product, etc. So while unit to unit the price might be cheaper, following Don's comprehensive plan might allow you to use less material than if you were to "plan" it out on your own which would be cheaper in the long run, plus you have one of the most knowledgeable guys in the industry detailing a plan specifically for you, your goals and your budget. Don doesn't have a cart checkout system on his site for a reason. He wants to have that conversation with the customer, to help them establish goals and a plan for achieving those goals. All in all I would say Don has the best bang for the buck, all things considered.

Make it sound better. I will be using cresendo tweeters with cresendo crossovers If you are talking about the PWX-6 and the bullet tweeter then no, that is a terrible setup. Though for having 1700 posts your ability to make a meaningful thread is rather abysmal. "Make it sound better" isn't a satisfactory response to my question of goals if you are truly looking for assistance.

There is a list of things it could be used for. That isn't the issue. The bigger issue is do you need to spend $150 on a tool in order to do those things? And you don't. Competition is one area where it has absolutely no use. IIRC even SMD and Tony have admitted this. To suggest that every competitor uses or needs to know where 1% THD is from their amplifiers is absolute nonsense. It's about what gives best results on meters. Some competitors will intentionally run the amplifier into slight clipping to increase power output. They don't need to know where 1% THD is, for their purposes distortion is a meaningless number; all they care about is SPL on a meter. If higher clipping allows for more power output and higher numbers on a meter, then that's all they care about. And they will test and test and test then test some more to figure out what gives the desired results; they would not pay any attention to something as useless as the DD-1 to tell them where that level is. Why is this vital information? I can tell you I've owned dozens of headunits over the past 15 years, and installed dozens more in friend's vehicles/etc, and have never once checked to find the clipping point of the outputs. If you use 0db you are leaving volume control on the table. Music as you pointed out will never reach that level for potentially anything more than transient dynamic peaks (that last milliseconds). So you set it using 0db, then play a song with an average level of -6db and are confused why you can't seem to get any real volume out of the system......because you are limiting your use of the volume knob based on a 0db setting. That was an entirely useless step.

Subjective evaluation of CLD is the least reliable. Any change is construed as positive change and evidence that the product works as advertised. I haven't looked at the specs in a while, but IIRC the the damping layer and constraining layer were both fairly thick. The difference however is going to be in things such as the compound used in the damping layer, we don't have anywhere near enough information to know what formulation was used and how effective it is as a constrained layer damper and other aspects of it's performance.

You still haven't given anything about your goals. What will you be crossing them with? Active or passive? Where do you want/need to cross them at and what slope? How are they going to be installed?