Impious

Other than referring to the product as inferior and the owner a douchebag (though the later would have applied had Ant still owned SS), then yes my responses would have been the same. CLD is one product that performs a certain function in a properly deadened vehicle, but it's not a singular solution to the goal of quieting the vibrations in a vehicle. I never said anything about 25% coverage and my last post answered your question precisely. The vehicle is in your driveway, go out and measure it. You don't need an internet forum to tell you the square footage of your own vehicle. All you need is a tape measure and calculator. FWIW, I am about to order deadening products for my own vehicle. Guess what I'm going to do first? Go out and measure all of the relevant dimensions of my vehicle so I can figure out how much of what products I'll need in order to cover the area of my vehicle that I plan on treating. It's not rocket science, it's elementary school measurements and calculations. I know you didn't specify brand.....hence the reason I asked what product and added a comment that quality is more important than quantity. Again, our goal is not just to "answer questions" but to ask questions and delve deeper into topics to ensure users are headed down an efficient and effective path toward achieving their goals. What you think is relevant to answering your question, and what is actually relevant to helping you achieve your overall goal are two totally different things. We wouldn't be doing anyone a service if we didn't do the necessary legwork and ask the necessary questions to not just answer the original question asked, but make sure they are also on the right track. You, however and for whatever reason, are narrow sighted and not willing to consider alternate advice. Fine. So I answered your question and will stop trying to make sure you aren't just wasting your money and not actually achieving your goal....which is where you will likely end up if you think a layer of CLD is going to stop all of your resonance issues. Less CLD and more alternate products would probably be a more effective and possibly less expensive solution. But you don't want to hear about it, so be it.

The straight answer is to measure the areas you want to cover. Length * Width = Area. If the area you measure is >50sqft, then it's not enough. If the area you measure is <50sqft, then it's enough. One of our goals here is not just to answer questions, but to offer advice for achieving goals in the most efficient and effective manor. Simple questions don't always have simple answers. Asking the right questions in response will often lead to offering suggestions to improve results. Just because you covered your truck in a layer of CLD does not mean you are going to have the results you desire.

What is your budget?

It depends on what is vibrating and why. For example, if trim panels are resonating the best method of stopping the noise might be some foam behind the panel to stop it from making a noise when it's vibrating. Other types of noise might be best fought with some butyl rope to help keep two pieces of material of vibrating against each other. Certainly CLD is good at reducing some panel vibrations, but it is not going to be the only cure to your problem. This is where dealing with a company like SDS is a much better option than many other deadening companies out there as not only is the owner one of the most knowledgeable in the industry and can offer suggestions to allow you to best meet your goals but he also sells the array of products (some of the best products in the industry as well) that will best help you achieve those goals. Of course you can't get that kind of service, selection and product quality at Audio Technix, but since that's not important to you......

The product is inferior to others on the market and the owner's a douchebag. Apparently that's not important to you, though. Waste your money however you wish. A decent amount for what? It depends on your goals and what you are trying to accomplish.

The quality of the deadener has far more of an impact than quantity. What deadener will you be going with?

This is why manufacturers and dealers hate giving guys "deals". Because if you do it once, they expect it every time. If you don't do it every time for them, the customer bitches and gets upset. They tell their friends about their "deals", so their friends expect the same deal. If the friend doesn't get the same deal, friend gets pissed and bitches about it. People randomly ask for discounts, if they don't get them they get pissed off and bitch about it. This is a prime example. New owners apparently aren't willing to give you the same "deal" Ant did. Tough shit and deal with it. If you're interested, buy the product at the price they offered. If not, just don't buy it instead of bitching about it publicly. If they offered you any type of discount, be happy with what you got instead of bitching it's not enough. They don't owe you a god damned thing, they don't have to give you any discount at all.

I would say it's far more likely they simply have not had time to make their way to your spot in the que yet.

Once the JL "latches" into one of it's "gears" (basically an adjustment of the rail voltage), it operates just like any other amplifier. Meaning if you connect a 2ohm load, the JL will "latch" into the "gear" for a 2ohm load, but from that point as the impedance of the speaker increases and decreases so will the output of the amplifier. It would be fairly undesirable to have an amp with truly constant power. For example, a subwoofer playing at or near Fb would be excessively overpowered if power output didn't drop with the increase in impedance. IIRC in the Carsound review the 1000/1 was only in the mid to high 60's for efficiency. Which isn't terrible, but not great either. The HD amps I believe are more efficient than the Slash series are.

No matter what video I watch, all of the speakers always sound the same....they all sound just like my computer speakers! I can't seem to figure out what the problem is Any ideas?

No, not any type of built in "detector". It was probably the toroids inside the amplifier making noise. You were probably overloading the toroids due to the higher level of current running through them with the gain turned up. That or some of the windings are simply loose so as the power increased they were able to wiggle a little and cause a buzzing sound.

In general it's not a great idea to replace a speaker on a passive crossover with a different speaker. It would appear you atleast have the crossover frequency and slope for the passives, which help some. But if the crossover network also includes a zobel network or anything extra, then it would hamper the results some. Though I'm not sure what the "6/12db" means for the slope. Not sure if that means 6db for the mid & 12db for the tweeter? Either way 2900hz on a shallow slope isn't a great idea in an automobile. IMO a better decision would be to purchase an entire new component set. What is your actual dollar amount budget? Do you have any space constrictions to deal with?

In the case of the Neo8 & Neo10 the difference is because they use different coils, the Neo8's coil is smaller hence the lower power handling.

My buddy was telling me about them a while ago. Exterior looks similar to Kinetik but internally they are not the same....different plates in terms of composite, thickness, etc (IIRC). I believe he said those Krank It Up weigh considerably less than a similarly sized Kinetik. I don't remember the details, it's been a while. But they aren't a rebadge type product to my knowledge. Based on what I've been told I would classify them as a cheap rip-off.

This subforum is not for WTB threads. This is for discussion only. Please wait to obtain the necessary number of posts and then use the forum's classifieds section.

Most car audio speakers aren't designed to perform optimally in a ported enclosure and their crossovers networks weren't designed with the enclosure in mind. It will technically "work" as you can pretty much do whatever you want to do, but the results will suffer using the wrong speakers in the wrong enclosure with the wrong crossover network. The results won't be spectacular.....if you are lucky they'll end up being listenable. Personally I would just search on Craigslist for some decent used bookshelf speakers. Be careful running them ported without a highpass. I don't know what your program material will consist of, but any bookshelf speaker is going to be extremely easy to bottom out below tuning. If nothing else, THESE are $40 for the pair, sometimes on sale for $25. They aren't going to be great, they're a $20/each speaker afterall. But I'm fairly certain they'd be an upgrade from your original plan.

<---- Never had to take SAT or ACT

If you're going to ground there, don't ground on top of that mounting tab. Ground underneath of it, directly to the body. If you ground to the top of that mounting tab, then you are relying upon the quality of the connection between the tab and the body which may not be very good (especially with the mounting tab being on top of the carpet), in which case you are grounding through the bolt to the body rather than grounding directly to the body. You want good surface area contact between the ground cable's connector and the body.

What do you mean? Do you have a picture or anything? It depends on how everything is laid out. If the port fired directly through the rear deck you could make it work. If it just fired "up" into the trunk then no it wouldn't be a good idea.

I do not want green eggs and ham. I do not want them Sam I am.

I don't know who runs that site, but they like to steal other people's write ups/articles and not give credit to the original author.

IMO the most obvious reason a thread like this won't really work is because, as Ryan mention, it's not very difficult for someone to change their IP or screen name and do the same, and there is already a feedback section to air out dirty laundry. If someone is not concerned enough about a transaction to search for a screen name and locate a bad feedback thread, a blacklist isn't going to help much either. Not to mention 9.9 out of 10 times once someone is "caught" as a scammer or has bad feedback left for them, they won't trade under that same name again. So it's going to be filled with a list of names of people who aren't trading under that name anymore anyways. As Aaron mentioned, the amount of scammers here is extremely low due to the nature of the forum atmosphere and general positive attitude of the user base. There are other forums where it seems there is a large percentage of transactions which have some sort of problem. However, it can happen to anyone on any forum and unfortunately there isn't a lot that can be done to stop it. There is a long list of people who have had dozens of positive transactions, only to end up leaving a bunch of people with empty wallets and no product. It happens. It sucks. There's not much, on a forum basis, that can be done to stop it. The mods aren't police. We're janitors. We don't have the capabilities or the information to stop scammers or help those who were scammed, and a "black list" isn't going to stop scammers. With all of ebay's supposed precautions, they still have scammers. The point is, in online transactions bad things are going to periodically happen. Be thankful it happens as infrequently as it does on this site. For those that have been scammed, it's unfortunate.

From the looks of that interface, it appears that the CD changer has standard RCA outputs which are then input to the interface, and the odd looking jack connects to the back of the headunit, correct? If so, should be pretty easy to test with a DMM. I would start with the CD changer. Make a disc with a test tone and play it in the CD changer (music will work as well, just not as easily). Set the DMM to Vac and test both of the RCA outputs on the CD changer itself (disconnect the interface) by placing the red DMM lead on the inside barrel of the RCA connector and the black DMM lead on the outer shell of the RCA connector. If they both show the same voltage, then the CD changer is fine. If they show significantly different voltages, or one of the outputs shows no voltage, then there is your problem. If they both test out fine, then connect the interface and measure again. I don't recall exactly what the actual connector looks like, but somewhere there will be connection for the the left signal, the right signal, and a ground. You will need to figure which is which and see if you have the same voltage again for the left and the right. If it's the same again, then the interface is fine and there is a problem with the headunit. If they show different voltages, or one of the outputs shows no voltage, then the interface is the problem.

You're not going to find a significantly better built amp than the JL's. They aren't the most efficient things in the world, but build quality and design wise they are top notch amps.