Impious

No, a full size HLCD can typically play down to 800hz or so. Finding a mid to play up to 800hz and down to the subs shouldn't be problem. So you'll just need the horns and one set of mids. Well, a couple things. For one you would need to make sure it extends high enough cleanly to mate with the horn. Second, when looking at T/S specs don't get caught up entirely on efficiency. There are trade-offs involved. You would want to look for something with a reasonable Fs, Qts, Vas and Xmax. If you find something with too high of an Fs, too low of a Qts, and too large of a Vas (for your space) you're going to end up with a driver that, in car door, is going to end up being -10db down @ 80hz......but the sensitivity will look outstanding. So it needs to be a trade-off between a useable Fs/Qts/Vas and sensitivity. I hate recommending this as I know absolutely nothing about them; but you might talk to Sundown about the 10" mids they just released. The reason I hate to recommend it is because I know literally nothing about them performance wise and I despise recommending something I know absolutely nothing about.....but in this instance it may be something for you to research as Jacob claims these are basically the types of installs he designed them for. For that type of setup it would be the only way to do it. I would honestly look at two separate amps due to the different power requirements. I would do a smaller ~100 watt per channel @ 4ohm 2-channel amp for the horns (since they are 8ohm, that's around 50w to the horns) and then the most power you can find for the mids. Personally I'm a power freak, so I would look for something that can support ~600w minimum per channel @ 4ohm which would give you around 300w @ 8ohm as most pro audio style are 8ohm (most likely scenario is either bridging a high powered 4-channel amp down to two channels, or two separate 2-channel amps with one bridged to each mid). If you wanted a 1-amp solution, the Zed Leviathan would be darn near perfect. Probably talking about the MiniDSP. It's a cool little piece for sure, but it's not nearly as plug-n-play as specifically designed car audio processors. There is a lot of talk about them on DIYMA, here's a review thread on the MiniDSP. I don't know a ton about all of it's kinks; you may need 2 of the 4-channels if you want to include your subs in the processing since the processor is only 4-channel output (and the 8-channel model has some drawbacks compared to just using two 4-channels). By the time you get either two 4-channels or the 8-channel plus all of the necessary hardware, you are up in the same price range as used car-audio specific processors. I'm not sure if there's a time lag in the processing, so you might be required to run the subs through the same processor to keep everything in-sync.....but that might be addressed either on the site or in the review thread. LOL.....ID's site is a long story. Those look like the CD1Pro's.....good horns, would work for your goals more than likely. The next model up are the CD2's which can be found used for less. IIRC the CD1's extended a little better on the top end but the CD2's were a little more sensitive and had a little better sounding midrange but didn't do as good above 15khz. The newer CD Ultra's are supposed to be a good mix of the two but pricier since they are newer. Stay away from any CD1e unless they are the new v3 version. The v1 & v2 versions of the CD1e were piezo drivers; not as sensitive, not nearly as good sounding. Or if you wanted you could cook your own. Find a used set of the full size bodies and then buy your own compression drivers. The CD2 Neo's were basically B&C DE500 compression drivers, which you can buy from partsexpress. Radian, B&C and BMS all make good drivers you could mate with the full size horn bodies. I'll say it again though. Tuning this setup is going to require some knowledge and a decent ear. If you don't feel you have the capabiltiies then pursue a different route. A few passive component sets stand a better chance at sounding good than a poorly setup and tuned extreme system. Implementation and tuning is going to make or break the end result.

HLCD (horn loaded compression drivers) are vastly superior to "Super tweeters" or "Bullet tweeters" in every regard, with the exception of cost. Much better bandwidth, much better dispersion patten, much better overall performance characteristics. Why all of the SPL types use super tweeters is beyond me, other than the fact you can get super tweeters for $40 a pop at places like partsexpress whereas a good set of car audio oriented HLCDs are anywhere from $200 used to $700 new. The reason both types of speakers are used is because of their efficiency. Most have a sensitivity of 105db or more, which means they get very loud with not a whole lot of power. The average HLCD, for example, can get loud enough to literally deafen you with about 50w of input if you sat in the car for any extended period of time. At average listening levels (average to most people, not to you SPL types ), you'll be using less than a watt to power them. If I were doing a loud SPL type install where they primary goal was loud clear output, I would do a set of horns under the dash and the largest mids I could physically fit in the front doors or kickpanels, ideally 10"-12" assuming they had the ideal response. Good thing about horns is the upper end models can handle an xover point as low as 800hz, so the mid doesn't need to extend up very high (relatively speaking). A lot of high quality 10"-12" pro audio mids will handle an 800hz crossover point. Properly tuned and installed, this type of setup would not only be able to get deafeningly loud but also sound incredibly good at lower more "normal" listening levels. With this type of setup you wouldn't need anything in the rear doors unless you wanted them just for showing off at shows. Processing and tuning would be crucial though. A lot of the SPL'ers go crazy with a bunch of super tweeters and a dozen mids. Sure, it might look interesting when showing off but acoustically it makes zero sense.

Midbass in the center console is a bad idea. Midbass is still stereo. You will want the speakers to the far left and far right, not in the middle of the vehicle. Pro audio speakers are just like any other speaker; some are good and some not so good, implementing them wrong will lead to poor results. Honestly based on the questions you are asking I'm not sure active is a good choice for you. But, we'll see. What is your budget? What is your goal for the stereo? What do you still need to purchase (i.e. do you have amplifiers/etc already or do you still need everything for the front stage)? How much modifications are you willing or able to do to the vehicle?

This IS NOT a "help me fix my amp" thread. I already said (if you read my original post) that all troubleshooting options were attempted. The amp was obviously faulty, even the tech guy said it must be a problem with the amp itself. Read the first post, please. What do I think was going on? Sounds like operator error on your part. Since I don't know anything more than what you originally posted, and since you apparently aren't willing to divulge anything else, that is the most obvious and logical conclusion. Without anymore information than what you posted in the first post, it didn't work when you had it but worked when they had it, that is the only conclusion.

Personally I wouldn't recommend the Dcon be ran sealed. Peak output isn't too bad but the driver lacks low end output. And that was running the driver infinite baffle, which allows more low end than an actual sealed enclosure. So the low end will only get worse once placed in an actual sealed enclosure. Higher Fs and lower Q....the Dcon really is designed for optimum performance in ported enclosure.

No T/S in the store for the Xcons. Are T/S on the "G2" the same as the originals?

Team BFF's

...... If that is your goal then yes, your motivation is to intentionally disturb others and violate your local noise ordinance laws. Not to mention as I previously stated.....all of that sound outside of the vehicle is sound lost from the inside of the vehicle, which is a useless waste to begin with.

First, that has nothing to do with the box. Second, that is a terribly idiotic goal. Your system should be for your enjoyment, not for intentionally disturbing the peace. Last, any sound lost to the outside is sound not remaining within the vehicle. All of that bass exiting the vehicle is bass not making it to the listener inside of the vehicle. Which is bad. Which reverts back to my second point.

Personally, I would probably go with non-PDR. The description says the PDR uses "progressive drive and radiation technology to improve upon the horizontal dispersion of the Neo3." Now, think about where you are mounting them for a second. You are mounting them on the A-pillar, just above the dash. You are mounting them just above a reflective surface. Would you want improved horizontal dispersion in this circumstance? No, you wouldn't. You would want to minimize the horizontal dispersion. The sound emanated horizontally is simply going to reflect off of the dash back up into the primary wave. Increasing horizontal dispersion is simply going to increase reflections off of the dash to interfere with the sound.

If this is your first attempt at an enclosure, I would keep it simple.

Honestly, I wouldn't delete the thread. Some of the other vendors need take note that THIS is how you quickly and professionally resolve an issue with the customer. Outstanding customer service. Kudos to you Andrew.

The device only works at the specific frequency(ies) it was designed to operate at. IIRC in the prior thread they stated it was designed to work with a 60hz signal. So it's not going to tell you what the amplifier is doing at 5khz, 10khz or 15khz. Only 60hz.

Meh, you're over thinking it. The level controls are there to aid in you level matching the speakers. You are level matching one way or the other, whether you do it with the amp gains or the level on the headunit or by some other means. Using those level controls to level match the speakers isn't necessarily bad in and of itself. One thing I don't know about on the Pioneer HU's, which is kind of what I'm trying to find out, is at what level setting the preamp voltage is rated. For example, it might be rated at 4V output, but the subwoofer level setting might need to be at maximum for the preamp to output that much voltage. So leaving it set at 0 might be significantly reducing the amount of voltage output from the HU, which if you combine that with an improperly set gain (one not set high enough for the low preamp voltage level) might be "reducing" the amount of power the amplifier is able to deliver. I.E. it might benefit him to turn the level setting up some if the preamp voltage is abysmal with it set to 0. It's a long shot, but figured it's worth a shot before we just tell him that he's screwed and wasted his money.

Grab a DMM, play a 50hz or so test tone and measure the voltage output (set the meter to AC Volts) of the subwoofer RCA output on the headunit with the volume about 80% of the way up. Disconnect the RCA from the sub amp and put the positive DMM lead on the inner nipple (yes, I said nipple) and the negative DMM lead on the outer ring.

Under ideal conditions the difference would be 3db, which is noticeable but not dramatically louder. Factor in power compression and other real world affects and the increase is going to be somewhere significantly less than 3db, making the expected results somewhere between "no difference" and "noticeable". Your results are pretty much exactly what is to be expected. Your expectations were simply too high. Assuming the "bass volume" on the HU is a level control for the sub output on the headunit and not a bass boost then yes you can turn it up (and in turn lower your gain setting). Do you have a DMM?

What are your "power limitations"? How much power do you have to work with? And do you have any space limitations? What is your budget? And if you already have an amp, what amp are you using?

Old wives tale. The only important thing is to keep RCAs away from noisy areas in the car. But having the power & RCA wires run next to each other doesn't matter. Run it where ever you want.

Dave is amish, he wouldn't even know what a BB was. Heck, he has to go out to his barn to get internet access. I kid, I kid. Anyways, I would disagree with the previous poster to stay away from Kinetik. They are high quality well performing batteries. you in a silly mood this morning?lol Nope, I just tell it like it is Inside joke.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion. Have some Kinetik's failed? Sure. Every battery brand has failures. XS batteries have failed. NSB batteries have failed. Having not seen every battery failure from every company and the conditions of every failure, and the overall failure rates from every battery company, etc etc, I think we can both agree that it's possible for your perspective to be a bit skewed by your limited personal experiences (limited compared to the total number of battery sales and failures, etc etc). Are Kinetik's the best competition battery? I honestly have no idea. From the brief outline of the OP's system, it would appear less of a comp system and more of a daily beater. Being better in the lanes does not make a battery the best in every circumstance. There will be different requirements for a comp battery compared to a daily driving battery. However, Kinetik has been used successfully in multiple competition systems and has a couple 180db titles under their belt.

FWIW Sony was doing square drivers in their home audio line of speakers way back in the 70s or early 80s. Sony APM series.

Dave is amish, he wouldn't even know what a BB was. Heck, he has to go out to his barn to get internet access. I kid, I kid. Anyways, I would disagree with the previous poster to stay away from Kinetik. They are high quality well performing batteries.

No, it will read the same either way. The DMM doesn't care which terminal is positive or negative when determining the resistance. It just measures how much resistance is present. Are the connection terminals the same size, or is one smaller than the other? EDIT: Nevermind, reread your post where you said the terminals are the same size. On larger drivers you can use a 9V battery to "pop" the speaker and see if the cone moves inward or outward. You can do this with a tweeter, but it will probably be much harder to see the cone's motion. Every speaker is "phase sensitive" in that positive voltage to one terminal will cause the cone to move outward, positive voltage to the other terminal will cause the cone to move inward. However, absolute phase isn't as important as relative phase. Meaning just because you have positive wire connected to positive terminal, it doesn't mean the sound that reaches your ear is in-phase with the other speaker. And the soundwaves being in-phase is what's really important. My advice: don't worry about it and try the speakers in both polarities and see which way sounds best inside the car.

The newest revision has two -- older ones have one on top of the pole. Cool beans. Was just curious as I was honestly a little surprised at the symmetry and linearity of the Le curve. Looks like pretty nice results overall.

I don't know what calculators Audibel has pinned......but port length depends on cross-sectional area of the port and net volume of the enclosure. Doesn't make a difference if the ports are round or square (although with a square you are more likely to be using an enclosure wall for part of the port, so end correction may come into affect).