THX_Elite

ok, the montana sold, but I can get you all of the others. For the Idaho ones do you prefer a certain year or prefer the best pick of the lot? the 58's are sold, other than that you have your pick. For shipping these will fit in a USPS flat rate package just fine and is a flat shipping fee, that you would need to pay which is $12.35 and payment needs to be thru paypal to protect both you the buyer and me the seller, and also the package. PM me your desired shipping address and I will reply with the paypal email, and ship the same day.

I wouldn't cancel my order...it was just an early morning on the fly remark...I am an but a squire in the school of patience, lol...I don't know Fi, as well as you Alton, but there are few replies and testimonials like yours that are what makes me trust in them and their product. As for "crying", lmao, and not knowing what business days are, I think some have misunderstood my integrity and knowledge of how the world "works". Also I don't care if they answer emails or not, I have not even sent an email nor have I sent a message thru my order page since I made the order as I do know that they are nearly insurmountably busy. I want to also mention that I never said Fi has bad customer service, I am sure that since it is common knowledge they don't email back as soon as people would like that ALL of their customer service that I desire is going into the craftmanship of the driver that I ordered. I am, on the enclosure side of things, also experiencing some extreme delay's in getting my box finished and shipped from FATBOX USA, due to the same "tax season" work load...but I do have the confidence in both company's that they will send quality products at their earliest convenience and when they are satisfied the product is good enough to ship to their customers. Thanks for calling me out on my previous post though. Fi won't lose this customer...I have built my whole rear end of my car in and around the anticipation of this specific order.

I don't mind waiting a month but I will probly cancel payment if it takes much past that. It says 7-15 days to build, account for them being busy = a month, 60 days is just out of hand. my order is just above the OP's by not that far and he got his in a month...

most prefab enclosures made by local shop vendors are too small to begin with and also don't take into consideration port and woofer displacement and are tuned around 40hz...23hz is faaar below that and if you have an ssf filter adjustment on your amp it needs to be set at or right around 36-37hz untill you get your box you want that better suits your good woofer, be carefull what your doing at this point, any odd noise out of the sub could be damaging to it. And that is a very nice woofer.

These are what I run In my car and are Fantastic! 150Watts RMS! Selling at a Great Price! $65 Never opened or taken out of the origional shipping box!! Paypal only, to protect both buyer and seller!! Buyer pays shipping Located in Pocatello, ID ~Thanks For Looking THX_Elite

$10 a piece for the old ones and $5 a piece for the newer ones ~clearly they are old, and the dirt on them is most likely also Vintage, lol!

32hz is always a good tuning for these heavy duty subs I believe, however, I don't know what the XCON wants in terms of space and tuning, or rather, what it desires for best performance. If 32hz fits right around the middle of reccomendation, I would surely choose 32hz and use the max internal volume INCLUDING SUBWOOFER AND PORT DISPLACEMENTS!!! listed under vented specs. To quote Alton... " As Brendan mentioned you have to factor in the volume of the sub itself to the volume of the enclosure. So say you're going to build an enclosure that is 1.5cuft NET, be sure to add the .16cuft of driver displacement for a total box volume of 1.66cuft total." Your number's may be different but the same practice still applys. Your subwoofer's website/manual will list it's volume, or someone on these forums will know specifically.

I'll post pics of the ones your interested in, if you would like...

Also don't forget there is a break in period of nearly a month on those subs before they reach their full potential of excursion and loudness, just go easy on her for a while and she'll start to open up for ya, and if your going to stick with a that particular sub look into getting the max sized volume within spec tuned to the lowest hz within spec

Ok...I have for Idaho: (and these are matching sets) and all 1/B for Bannock County Years: '58, '59, '61, '62, '65, '66, '67, and '68 these years vary between green and white. $10 a piece Then I have a matching set of Blue Callifornia's and 1 white California, a yellow Alaska, and a white Montana $5 a piece Let me know what you think!

defintely interested. Let me know what you have. Will do I am heading to the shop here in a few minutes and will get back to you shortly after.

Update: Ordering a Maniac Electrical Motors H/O alternator doubling my amps to 180

...any reply on how you like your sub now? We all put alot of thought and suggestion in

If your still interested in old plates, my parents and I run a antique and automotive shop and we possibly have a few to a lot of OLD plates, we're talkin' 40's 50's 60's....I will look into it if your still around and looking. Just let me know.

Thanks for clarifying that Alton, at the moment I, personally, do have improper port tuning and internal box volume for my T1 and still have little to no port noise, however I do fire it all backwards, (other wise i'm sure I'd here a bit of it) but that is going to be rectified when my Fi BL and it's fancy new enclosure arrive! I'm a lucky one as for trunk rattle as my Mazda Millinia doesn't have that issue very bad at all..wonder if it has to do with being the "L" version...anyways.... Thanks also for making note that since the OP prefers the sound and feel of the forward firing design to make sure and keep anything from blocking the driver and port. I don't have the option to fire forward as my back seat is two pieces, the bench and the back rest, and the back rest does not fold down. So instead I have a nearly 1 foot square hole in the deck below my back window that air shoots thru when I'm poundin' It's sounds great and you can really feel the air come at you still. I hope the OP can fit his desired enclosure design in his trunk opening while keeping the same volume. (learning as I move a long in these forums is my intention!)

You will get the most of your sub when you fire it and the port towards the rear in most CAR applications...this way you don't get "port noise" from the air, let's the sound waves reverb off of the rear of the car then the dash/windshield before it hits your ears and it gives the listener more of a physical experience, IMO. There are videos on you tube about how to get the most, measured, spl out of your setup when positioning your enclosure. You would gain spl by facing the sub and port to the stern I know that for sure(in a car).

I understand, I realize I posted in a way that is non desirable to myself or to others. I like my Hifonics but at the same time I would most certainly enjoy a few certain brands over what I have now for sure..Specially some that are connected with this forum. I love this place and mean not to sound ridiculous.

Niiiice choice in both woofer and Battery!!! I have an odyssey in my install, a pic of it with the big 3 is in my profile pics and the model is in my signature.

ya, I don't disagree with that by any means, these are just what I know to be reliable amps that are cea compliant and have nice and accurate rms ratings, at a good price, and run at cool temps. I wouldn't mind running a RF1500BDCP but those are 700 bucks and at least 500 used. There are many options out there and I am sure quite a few good sellers in this forum who might have better choices in amps for sale also. I have gone through many amps and the ones I found to be the best were RF and Hifonics as in term of lasting for ages. Heck my brother has been using and abusing a Hifonics Titan for over 6 years now and it still runs cool and clean, where I have had many Fosgates' die on me in a lot shorter time, not to mention they run A LOT hotter. Since I have found SSA though, I now have more desire to branch out into some different brand amps I have been seeing and researching! I don't like tootin' horns on specific brands as "to each their own" is an important factor here, and just wanted to offer a person on a budget, like me, a suggestion I am familiar with is all. I know there are a lot better amps out there, for sure

I personally am absolutely In love with Hifonics amps purchased directly from sonic electronix, they are super amps, well built, look nice, are very capable and are loved by A TON of people, not to mention are VERY reasonably priced you could get two of my amps and still have enough to get an amp for your fronts and money left over!!! ... my amps are in my signature... For subs: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67934_Hifonics-BRX1600.1D.html x2 ^what I chose for the rear of my car^ For Fronts: I'd prefer a 4 channel but that's all up to you...Here is a good 2 channel...leaves room to upgrade... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67927_Hifonics-BRX160.2.html or... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-ZRX1000.4.html ^what I chose for the front of my car^ ...having xtra power overhead, means a lot when it comes to feeding your mid's clean power, meaning you wont have to turn the amp "level/gain" as high to achieve desired loudness and clarity...just make sure your electrical is up to par!

^Never mind on that last question, I'll put the caps between the last battery and amp.

Thank you for the read...so i take it an Isolator will not be necessary, where in the configuration with two battery's would be the best place for my 175 farad and 1 farad caps? in between or after both batteries?

Is it important to have a battery isolator when installing a second battery?

Be careful your backup may become your number one starter! Nah, I'm interested in the Fi BL 12" i ordered these are just a great looking driver at a great price that I wouldn't mind using in case I ever had to send in the BL for some TLC, which given their good rep and my experience I shouldn't need to do. I'm just a dang addict and can't stop shopping for subs even though I've ordered one already...Lmao

thank you! ~in my case It doesn't hardly drop at all...plus, on the first, I am doubling the alternator output to 180amps in preperation for my fully loaded Fi BL 12" that ill be running at 1600rms...right now I am on a 90amp alty, running a 12" Rockford T1 at 1600rms even tho the sub is only 800rms