Burke

Subs are SOLD locally.

$850 shipped! Honestly I was expecting these to go quicker, no interest yet.

Bump! All packaged and ready to go. $875 shipped to your door!

Looks sick! Back seats; don't need em. Reminds me of my 98 K1500. If more than one person was riding with me, they were sittin bitch on the center console. Bass is more important than people haha.

Just realized this was posted in January. How'd it go, OP? Any updates?

Any updates? What'd you decide to go with?

Came across it one day before they were really in the sub game. Easily the best forum around!

It sounds like you've already pretty much got an idea of what you need. What exactly is it that you're wanting to know? What are your goals with the build? Congrats on the purchase, Fi makes great stuff.

Another plus to using aeros is the tunability. When you make a standard slot ported box, you're pretty much stuck with those specs, but with aeros you can change it around until you get it where you want it.

1. Product: 2 Fi SP4 18s with Carbon Fiber Dust Caps 2. Specs: Both are dual 1 ohm (0.7 ohm) 3. Description/Condition: Ran them for a little under a year on low power (Audioque 2200). Magnets have some scratches but the surrounds, baskets, spiders, and coils are in excellent condition. Does not include the original gaskets. A couple of the pictures are next to a 10" Kicker "Competition" (lol) for size comparison. I threw out the original boxes some time ago, but Fi was nice enough to send me two brand new boxes to ship them in. So these will ship in original Fi packaging. 7/10 Cosmetically 10/10 Mechanically 4. Price: Asking $900 SHIPPED OBO for the pair. Because they are dual 1 ohm, I would like to keep them as a pair. NO TRADES, just trying to get rid of all my stuff. I'm located in Huntsville, AL 35810. Would be willing to drive to meet someone within reason. 5. Pictures:

It's an AVH-X7700BT

Long story short, my system has been under construction for quite some time. I decided to throw some speakers in the doors via the factory speaker wires just to have something to listen to, but there was no sound. My first thought was a short somewhere in the wires, so I wired one speaker directly to the HU's harness (literally at the back of the HU, not through harness adapter) and it still produced absolutely nothing. I played around with the settings and couldn't find anything that could cause this. Am I missing something stupid, or is this HU fried?

Appreciate all the help guys.

6" aero ports Yup.

I forgot to mention that I'd like a bit of room for the amps between the seat and the box. This 7K has fans on the bottom, so I need to figure out a way to elevate it from a flat surface.

I've got around a foot of room to work with. When the box is against the back seat, there's about a foot between the front of the box and the hatch.I'm just not sure if the box being closer to the hatch is more efficient than it being as far away as possible.

I apologize for asking a question that has been asked plenty of times before, but I couldn't quite find the answer I was looking for. I have an OBS Tahoe with 2 18s, subs up ports back (4 aero ports along the bottom). I need to secure the box to the floor, as it's shaking around pretty badly. My question is, is there an optimal distance to have between the end of the port and the trunk lid? I've read where people just say to put it at different distances and just try it out, but this is no help to me because A. I don't have a termlab and B. the box is moving so rapidly that it pushes itself away in a few seconds anyway. I'd rather not drill holes through the floor until I have an idea as to where said holes should be. I appreciate the help in advance. I'll post up a picture of the setup during my next break at work if anybody needs a better idea of the placement I'm talking about. Thanks guys.

Picked up 4 of the pro audio mids and a couple of the super tweeters. Bought em even without the discount. Oh well.

I missed it by a couple of hours

Build looks sick man.

There sure is haha. Who knew?

Any reason you have choose to run the port back on the bottom? Given the dimensions you have given and with the desired frequency being a slot port, I have seen many builds with much unwanted port noise..From flexing or non-thought through internal bracing...Damage was done and when internal bracing was done of course changed the desired frequency..Port area still looks small in my opinion.. I would have at least 325 sq in of port area..This is only a personal preference.. I just got done typing a long reply and accidentally clicked "More Reply Options" instead of "Post." fml... I decided to go subs up port back because I've heard from multiple sources that it is the ideal configuration in my particular vehicle. I suppose I could put together a standard vertical slot port and see if I can make it do what I want it to do. I did the port along the bottom for no reason in particular, just thought it would be a cool thing to try. Regardless, I guess I should account for more than .3 cubic feet of internal bracing given that it's going to have to be incredibly sturdy to eliminate unwanted noise. I appreciate the heads-up! As far as the port area goes, I just don't see how it's possible to go any higher while maintaining a tuning frequency of under 32Hz and staying within the possible dimensions, but I'm open to suggestions! My opinion would be to give a vertical port with the said dimensions of a port 16" with wall #1 39.50 in length and wall #2 29.0" in length..after displacement and 90 degree corners you should be in the 32Hz range..Drivers will not be able to be left to right to stay in between the port walls. Should net around 315 sq in of port volume.And of course 21.25 in height with a double baffle for a 22" height total.. I'll have to look into that. Thanks!

Thank you sir!

Yes indeed! And hell yes this snow is ridiculous. My head unit was delivered to my dad's house earlier today, but I can't drive over there to pick the damn thing up. So frustrating!