gerront

THANKS!!!

An additional battery would help. But dont expect a large increase in peformance....but hey every little bit helps. You REALLY need to get the Big 3 done. You will get better performance out of your current battery and your alternator.

Maybe something got pinched or moved when you were running that 0 gauge. Did you have to run the wire down the drivers side of the car? If so, make sure something didnt intefere with the paking brake switch.

Then you need to check your voltage with a meter while the car is running...... Or disconnect the 2nd battery and see if the light goes off then......

The car has now since been painted with new blacl projector headlights w/ 8500k hid headlights.... More pics to follow when i get time to take some new pictures and when its not dark outside....

Im thinking more and more about trying one of those DCONS....hmmmm

Ok wise guy. I mean the biggest i can get for $150 or less...... I dont want something HUGE...just something biger than your average off the shelf 12" and what not.

No im saying your battery light should only be on, if the car is running off the battery or batteries and the vehicle is NOT seeing any additional power from your alternator. Example. If you turn your key forward without cranking vehicle, your battery light should be on. When you crank the car, the battery light should go away once it sees that the alternator has kicked on and is charging. If your Battery light is staying on, then your alternator may have went out. But since you said the power steering went out as well.... alot of vehicles have a one belt running the alternator and power steering pump. I would advise you to pop your hood and check for a missing belt, or at the very least check your voltage while the car is running.......

Well here is what ive been working on the past few months. Finally got all the body work done and had the car painted. Ive got most of the stereo going and just have to figure out what to do on the subwoofer. I dont want to add to much weight to the car. But im working with a MTX 81000D and looking to run either one big 12" or 2 10"s i do believe. I really dont want to spend more than $150 on the subs either..... Any input there wouls be greatly appreciated...... Pictures will be up in just a minute...

Usually the battery light stays on when its running off of the battery by itself and its not seeing any voltage from the alternator. If thats the case,....and your power steering went out....would there happen to be a belt off or broken under the hood to take out the steering and the alternator??? Only logical ansewr i can come up with ........

The port is going all around the front of the box......Very interesting idea...Never seen this done before. The only thing i can tell is that it would need some significant bracing, which would also block some port area and potentially give you some port noise.......But i could be wrong....NEVER seen this done before. Port noise or not, it would be worth it to try it out.

See if you can find something here. You should be able to adjust it from the power side of the amplifier with one of these. Good luck. Hope this helps..... #1 Volume Control | Custom Installed Audio Volume Control $14.95

Yeah i know i know.......

Just a thought. But if your running a stock H/U, then you more than likely have some sort of low level adapter installed in the vehicle to convert the factory speaker wires over to a more usable RCA connection. If there is a bad connection on one of those channels you will loose half power through your RCA jacks..........but it sounds like you may already have found the issue......Good Luck...

Thanks man....

Welcome fellow Alabamian.....what part u from

Thanks man. I got it to bond pretty well just by roughing the plastic up really good. Then i wrapped it really tight with fleece and shot staples throught the back side to hold it in place. Glassed it and never had a problem out of it again.

Here are some of the pictures as requested of the mids and highs......and other stuff....

Hmmm..... I havent heard or any other complaints? Hope you can figure it out.....

Each door has 2 pods fiberglassed in at the bottom holding a pair of Pioneer 4-way 6 1/2's on axis. Also have a pair of Pioneer tweeters running of just deck power. So basically 8 6.5 4-ways on about 400watts. Everything comes in loud and clear.....

Still gonna try and remember to get a video up of this beast. The ouput of just this one woofer has had people really confused.......I let them here it...then they say....Damn!!! What you got back there....and of course they guess and say two 15's? 3 12's... None of the above....Just one little ol' 15"...............THATS IT???? I love it!!!

I dont think people are syaing there looked down on at all. There saying that if you buy one and its said to hold 800 watts rms...its underated and can easily take more power than that with no problem. I have recently installed one of my Fi subs i own (15" fully loaded) in a single ported box and i am currently running a Kicker ZX2500.1 on it, with the gains at 3/4 and it still seems to want more....lol For what you are doing. I HIGHLY recommend the SSD's, you will be more than happy that the output these subs can produce. I would do a sealed box and try to squeeze it out to about 1.4cu.ft. so after speaker displacement you will end up right where Fi recommends it to be. As far as the 500 watts goes..It will work, but you can double that and be even more impressed. Hope this helps.