Billy Jack

No such thing as over kill when it comes to electrical, more is always better, and will do a good job of holding a stable voltage. Now to much wattage to a sub isn't good, but even then, I would rather have a little to much clean wattage then not enough dirty clipped wattage. I can't count the times I have seen people blow amps and subs from running to small a amp, way to hard, all the while their asking me, how I get away with running 1k over rms with never a problem. I will always try and get a bigger amp and turn my gains down to get that clean un distorted sound. I'm gonna try and run a ampere 3800 or a sundown 3k on my btl and it's only rated for 2500rms.

I'm running a JL 13w7 off a HD1200/1 in my dodge with nothing but a 4 gauge ran back to a shriken 1k capable secondary battery in my trunk and I don't have any light dimming unless I just go hard for over a hour straight so I would think you should be fine on a 1000 watts with just a good secondary battery. Now I do have a small run of 1/0 from the secondary battery to the amp but the 4 gauge ofc stinger wire and stock electrical feeds it fine. But I will say my dodge is fairly new so my electrical could be better then yours. Best thing to do is check your voltage after you get everything going and upgrade if you need to.

That's what I would normally do cause I know they would fit but if I can get the same amount of cone area by running 1 18" instead and save $559 in the process I'm all for it. I have never built a single box I have ever used, except maybe a sealed box or two so I don't have the right tools to do it right, so I always have it built then do the rest of the install myself. Figured somebody who designs or builds boxes could take my 32x32x18 max demensions and give me a close guess to which btl I could run in that space 15" or 18". I will be having this box built, so I don't even need tuning, or port velocity, just how many cubes could a good box builder get, after bracing and port. And I'm glad to know that dude don't work at SSA cause ARRON is very helpful even if it may be a dumb question to him so I guess I will contact him for my amp, wire, battery's, and HO alt. this will also be my first time using a factory source unit it's such a nice navigation unit I don't want to remove it just to add bass and some highs. I had planned on using one of the new sundown 15ZV5 until I saw the new btl neo's I already have the best sundown has to offer, so I wanna try out FI's subs. If I like it I may build a wall and run 2 18's later. This is a new car I got for delivering so I'm gonna be spending a lot of time in the car so a decent system is a good time killer.

no help is ever given to anybody except the pros who don't even need it. All I need to know is how many cubic foot could be got from a trunk space of 32x32x18 so I can know which btl to order 15" or 18" and I can take it from there. But never mind, so much easier to drive 75 miles to talk to my box builder then get a simple answer on here.

No shit Sherlock. What I need to know is about how many cubic feet can be had from the 32 width 32 depth 18 tall. It doesn't have to be exact just a general approximation so I know which btl to order 15" or 18". If I multiply the measurements I come up with almost 10 cubic foot but that's before bracing and port so I'm pretty sure a 10 cubic foot box want fit in a chevy cruze trunk. I normally already have the subs and take them to my box builder to build my box but this time I need to know how big I can go so I can order the sub first. And those measurement's are max what will fit. I measured my trunk opening for the width and height so I know for a fact anything in those numbers will fit. I also checked my 18 tall Clearance for the length of the depth and it's good. And on a side note, I had thought about ordering everything else, except the sub from SSA, but if it's this hard to get a simple tech question answered from the SSA tech team I think I best take this $2k some where else. I'm thinking sonic electronics want have a problem helping me.

Got a new car and want to run the single biggest FI BTL NEO I can fit. I have measured my trunk and I have 32x32x18 to work with, the car is a 2012 chevy cruze LTZ. My question is, about how big of a box I can use. I'm thinking I could possibly fit 1 15" at 4-5 cubes but I'm no box builder. I would love to run 1 18" inch but the btl requires 6-8 cubic foot so I doubt it would fit.

Suck my right nut lol, nobody is insecure. I just thought he was correcting me the way he typed that out, still not sure what he meant, other then the truck is a 3500. Obviously I was referring to the amp, and he was referring to the truck. Not a big deal.

Are you correcting yourself, cause you said the 3500 would be loud in the car not me, all I said was the guy said it was a 4500 not a 3500.

I think the op said a soundqubed 4500 not a 3500.

Since where talking about evils, do they have a FI counterpart like the SP4, or team sub, that are close to them. I know there not the same sub, someone already said they have slight differences, but what series of FI's subs would be closest to the evil in performance, and output.

The only ones I noticed being different where the BTL's, Q'S, and SP4's. But either way the new SP4's and BTL's look wicked with those new 6 magnet system and triangle looking magnet's on the SP4's. I'm gonna invert one of those BTL's at tax time in my newest car.

With FI just coming out with their new BTL line, I would imagine it's gonna take 4-8 weeks, but I'm no insider, so that's just a guess from what I have seen, and read before, by other FI/SSA customers. I myself plan on getting a new 18" BTL at tax time, so I know I'm in for a two month wait, but that's fine as long as I'm told up front, and updated to any changes. Like others have said, be ready to drop and go once it arrives. I'm sure your gonna love a evil, on 4K watts, should be a bad s.o.b!

My dream amps! MMats 4000.5 Phoenix gold The One. B2 M15R Sundown NS1. US amps 2000X JL HD1200/1 Zapco ZX-26KD 14000 watts 12v@2ohm monster amp!

That poor steering wheel looks like it's made of cooked spaghetti from all the bass, or is that just the camera making it appear like it's moving violently.

You might have changed the resonant frequency of the car so the drone is more noticeable now. I know exhaust manufacturers are now measuring the cars acoustics and tuning the exhaust to avoid drone. But those are on the higher end of the market not flowmaster cherry bombs.

Cool. I was just curious, either way it's a bad bitch.

I doubt you can get a recone, considering audiobahn went out of business. Now you might contact psi, they might could recone it, but it want be the exact same sub, it will be more of a Frankenwoofer, with different T/S parameters.

Does the PAC unit not have directions? Mine came with a book telling you what wire, went where, on different head units. And my alpine bluetoothed to the steering wheel controls.

They definetly have a monster motor on them.

How else are we supposed to take, "your an illiterate dumbass," ain't but one one to take phrases like that. Lol

We all have those moments, it get even worse as you get older. I forget stuff I have known for years, and later realize, duh I knew that, why couldn't I remember it. But I have had a butt load of concussions, so it's could be either, or both, for me. I had amnesia in the mid 2000's, that's the weirdest shit ever, I knew my name, but had 5 years of my life just gone, I have picked up a few major things, but for the most part that 5 years is gone. Sorry if I'm off topic, but you did bring up durp moments.

The fuse has nothing to do with how hard your alternator runs, that's the job of the voltage regulator in older cars, and the pcm in newer cars. Basically the alt does what the regulator, or pcm,tells it to do. If the pcm see's low voltage, it will demand more out of the alt, and when it see's a resting 14.4volts, it will make it run just enough to keep a steady voltage. All fuses are for, is a safe guard against shorts, or voltage spikes, so nothing catches fire, they don't restrict, or control anything except braking the chain of juice, if to much is traveling through them.

If you have a amp that draws 400amps you need a 400amp fuse. 300 may blow at peak if your amp actually draws 400 for any period of time. I doubt it ever would but usually amp manufacturers suggest a 100amp fuse for every 1k watts. I am using a 100amp fuse on a HD1200 and have never blew a fuse but some less efficient amps will blow fuses that are a little small if they draw to much current for to long.

Kind of like when we had a bundle of gratuated steal break free from the chokers, and fall 62 stories onto Cadillac square, in Detroit, and the longer bars went so deep into the pavement the Cranes couldn't even pull them out, so we had to cut the ends off, and nail them on in, and pave over them. Looked like a giant box of tooth pics flying every where.

And your a uppity arseho so what's your point? I say I agree with something you say, and you start a argument as usual. Why SSA puts up with your bs I will never know. Can't nobody say I haven't tried my best to make piece with you or at least find some common ground. But apparently all your looking for is blind followers to kiss your ass and feed your massive ego. I will let you in on a little secret, your nothing special I'm seriously doubting everything you say.