Billy Jack

I can remember using a Sony disc man on a little stand that bolted to your dash and hooked into your cassette deck. Man those things sucked the least little bump and your music went by by. Even some of the first in dash CD players would skip like crazy just from bass. Basically anything from Walmart, and Kmart would drive you nuts. But we did have some great sounding A/B amps back then, I wish I would have saved my Phoenix gold, PPI, and US2000X amps. If I ever come across any M100's or MS275's I'm buying them and having them repaired.

I have never liked the pioneers all my buddy's ran them but I always went for Clarion, Eclipes, or Alpines. I ran a few sony's and kenwoods but they where just temps until I got a better unit. I would like to try one of those new pioneer active units I hear those are great for sound quality. I will probably just upgrade to the alpine 800 dsp with the optional controller. My 137bt alpine is ok but not as good as my last 9887 I had on a 2 way active in my truck.

Yea I got the 1996 Z/28 my senior year in high school and began building my system and car a few pieces at a time. It was my only bill so it went pretty quick. Somewhere around 97/98 I got 2 of the L5's and one of the zx2500's, then about a year later I ended up with 2 more L5's and another amp, so I took out the hatchbox, and had a buddy build me a wall in my back seat. We had the batts stacked up in the hatch area, and the amps where mounted facing the back glass. Then some where around 01-02 I think I traded out subs when the L7's first came out. I said 90's cause that when it all got started, but it was in the 2000's before I ever metered it. Before that I had a Toyota hatchback with 3 12w6V1's and a Phoenix gold M100 and M50. I had several different component sets in that car I traded around and upgraded a lot. I wish Eclipes hadn't went out of business I miss there old head units. Now I use the alpine there as close to the eclipse as I have found but just not the same. Aww those where the days.

I found it while I was hunting for another Crescendo 3500. You where very helpful, (Arron) so I figured I would check the forum out, and I originally only read it for the first few months, then decided to chime in.

That's actually what I switched from, I started out with the 5's and when the 7's came out I traded them out.

That poor windshield wiper is about to come off and go to the moon!

I had a Fbody Z/28 with 4 square L7 kickers, on 2 ZX2500's, and a hatch full of optima yellow tops. It was a ported wall that did 151.3db in meca in the 90's.

I wasn't gonna ask at all. It's kind of obvious you meant a spl build. I swapped out cloth floor mats for rubber in the camaro to I forgot about that until you mentioned the ducts.

Really that gained you some db? I have heard of opening or closing the vents but never removing the duct work. That's a new one on me.

What are some easy ways you guys have used to gain DB's. Like myself, I found my old camaro did a few tenths better, with the hatch cracked, and the windows cracked, and the glove box open. Just curious what you guys have tried to gain those few tenths.

Obviously your definition of bum-fuck-you-got-a-pearty-mouth and mine are different. In Kentucky 3/4ths of eastern ky is no cell coverage, hell your lucky if you got running water, and cable hear, and forget about cell coverage. Our idea of remote is, you drive 40 miles from town, turn down a Hilly dirt road, and drive for another 30miles, then hit a atv trail for 50 miles, then get off and walk to the top of a mountain, then your in the middle of no where. Anything short of that we consider subburbs.

Where good, no big deal as long as the point gets across, that's all that matters to me. I have no doubt you guys are supper busy, and can't take care of every little detail the second it happens.

See frog knows what's up! Trust me I try everything and it just locks up and I have to post a empty comment just to clear the messed up comment. And I can delete the entire comment, but I can only type in the other persons quote box, and it want let you move the cursor back to my comment. Plus I'm doing it the same way I always have just like the pics it worked fine before so if it didn't have glitches it would now to.

Some amps on proper electrical can handle low impedence loads better then others. I would feel much safer wiring a mmats or DD amp at .5ohm, then I would say a hifonics or Audiopipe. My nephew wired his 3200 watt Collossus to .5ohm and it lasted a little over a week. Luckily sonic electronics took it back and sent him a brand new unit no questions asked. Now he has a sundown saz2500 wired to .5ohm on the same subs, same everything and it's been going strong for over a year and a half. It does get hot but nothing like the Collossus, you could have fried eggs on it.

Sometimes it works and sometimes it don't. ^ I tried on the quote above, and it just puts blue lines around it and want let you do nothing until you post it. It want even let me type except in the quote box. And I can't post pics any more either, it worked for a couple of day and now it just gives me some error code like before. So I do the best I can.

I'm using that very concept in both my builds. 2 13w7's, one HD1200/1, and 2 sundown team 12's, on one crescendo 3500. I do plan to add power, but for right now it's ok, even at half power on both. Well they where I should say, I'm waiting on boxes for both my cars. But they where installed that way in my last 2 cars.

Well that depends on the task at hand. $75 dollar job on someone's ride, then yea I will do my best to do it right the first time. A quick comment typed in a hurry, and a online forum that has bugs, and don't exactly work right anyway, well half ass is good enough. And before you say it work's fine, this very comment was supposed to have your last comment on it, but it doesn't.

Well I was in a hurry and didn't see anything that covered what I was asking so I just quickly picked one under off topic. I got a response didn't I? Remember I from the old school of, fuck it close enough, shit ain't that serious. Don't sweat the small shit man, you will live longer.

It's not reading comprehension fail, if you don't even read it, which I didn't. I just hit the button to get on with it.

Ow ok. Yea man if you care about your stuff, I would wire to high, then to low. You can't hurt a thing going higher, but your asking a lot of your amp going lower. Your amp will be safe, and you get the added sound quility to boot, all your giving up is a tiny bit of wattage which you probably want hear a difference anyways.

This is sound advise (pun intended). Think of impedence like a pipe, and a amp trying to feed water, (rms) to this pipe, and current as water pressure. As you play music this pipe is getting bigger and smaller all the while your amp is trying to supply enough water to keep it full, so even if you slow the rate of flow it's gonna have a hard time keeping the pipe full (current). I have seen it done but sometimes it causes heat and failure.

You also answered your own question. If it's set safe, then obviously it's not gonna over heat if very little current is going through it, so what exactly is your question, or are you just looking for confirmation?

Cause there isn't a section for other audio websites so I put it under off topic and not sure about the 123 thing just hit it I guess to get to the point.