Billy Jack

Sounds like a decent amp to me. Reliable, efficient, not overly complex or expensive, what's not to love.

I like their stuff, and if you look on the iasca and meca site they where big in the comps a couple of years ago them DD, and Alfred is mostly what all the top guys are using for subs. Or at least that's how it reads anyways.

Yes I'm looking at the Quattro 4 channel, it's a H class amp. And M5 I have ran plenty of AB style amps, my Phoenix gold M100, and M50, where AB style amps, and yes they sounded great. And I want to try something a little different, never had a H class amp, that I know of. See there you go, assuming you know something about me you obviously don't.

What is A/B?

Competitors wire low because they can actually measure there impedence changes, and still be safely in the recommended range. But their playing sign waves not 100 different kinds of music. I never ever wire below impedence your basically shorting the amp out at certain frequency's.

Ow, and have you never heard a cheap amp actually put out sound directly from the board without a sub, or speaker even hooked to it. lol I have, it was one of those old surf board rockwoods, you could actually hear music coming from the amp its self lmao but of course that's not what I meant but it did come to mind.

Well it was a entire B2 system in a Lexus. The highs, mids, where crisp, accurate, and loud as hell, but didn't fatigue your ears, The noise floor was nearly inaudible. The bass was extremely loud, and very accurate for 15 inch subs. They where hitting just as hard as my subs, but sounded so much better, and played a wider frequency then mine, but that could just be the box, but I don't think so, and they blended very nice with the mids. The amps looked really well built, had nice connections, and just looked very solid, compared to some of the Korean stuff. They looked nice with the plexi glass tops showing there guts. Now I'm no expert, but I know enough to be able to tell a cheap amp, from a decent amp. And I'm not saying, ow there the greatest, or anything like that, just figured I would give one a try, since I was looking to upgrade my 4 channel anyways. I already know I will hear a difference just from the fact I'm going from 45 watts a channel, to over a 100watts. I need to build a amp rack, and mount them properly, but it's hard to get time to do anything but work. I'm actually more interested in the amps power, and reliability, more then anything. I know I would never be able to tell one amp for another, if everything was the same but there not, I'm more then doubling my power which will lead to less distortion, and hopefully better overall sound. I was more speaking of the entire B2 system, then any one component.

I don't know Chance, does he work for GP or something. And I wished you guys (SSA) carried B2, I seen and heard, one of there amps recently, and I was highly impressed with the build quality, and sound it made. I been looking to upgrade my alpine power pack, with a real full size 4 channel, so I'm gonna give B2 a try.

So there no BS Merica wire is really welding wire with GP stuck on it. Maybe they should leave off the "no" and just call it BS wire.

Has anyone had any dealings with GP audio store online. Interested in their customer service, and if their a reputable company you can trust. Thinking about buying a 4 Channel for my highs mids, and they got the best price I have found on B2 audio, and also American Bass but the B2 is what I'm interested in.

How old is the NS1 I could really use it to power my two team Sundown 12's but I gotta sell this crescendo Bc3500 first or would you be interested in a trade with some boot.

I would run it for a temporary setup just check the coils and see if it's any good and get a idea of it impedence.

Yep wrong topic sorry.

Yea unless you have the sub inverted, you will never even know the surround is dry rotted, until it actually gives up the ghosts. I wouldn't waste my money until it goes.

I'm not positive, but it kind of reminds me of the old hifonics square Brutus x subs, but not sure. Either way just measure the impedence of the coil, and wire accordingly.

Are you asking how to get Incriminator to sponsor you? If so, I would imagine they would have to see you at comps, or shows, and see you as a up and comer, and approach you. Highly doubt you could just call up and get free stuff. Had a friend years ago that was sponsored by US amps, and he had been in competitions for years, and was ranked. I think the only thing they did was supply him with amps. The rest of his system, he either paid for, or the shop he worked at gave it to him at cost.

Cool I like the box. And that port is cool looking to definetly different I have only seen those on factory boxes.

If they can survive MN weather North Carolina should be no problem.

Well I don't pay any taxes and hardly ever does it take 4 hours. That's just the worst ones. 75% of the cars I do usually take 2-3 hours plus I get a lot of tips to. Did a brand new SUV the other day that a kid threw up in the back seat and it took maybe hour and a half and the lady handed me a $100. But I do have 5 stars on yelp, and my webpage, app, and Facebook page is nothing but 5 star reviews, so apparently people love my work. And I have no control over the reviews, all I can do is block someone, which I never needed to yet. Now if I had to earn a living doing it, or had any over head, it wouldn't be worth it, but it works out great for me. I usually suck up enough change to pay for the cleaners and the rest usually cost me about $8-$10 a car without buffing. The only ones who ever want buffing, is the car lots, they have a lot of freshly painted cars or old neglected cars that need paint correction. If I lived back in detriot, I couldn't get away with doing business this way, but the law is pretty relaxed in eastern Kentucky. There are a few restaurants in town that pay cash, and I know a bunch of contractors that work for cash.

Ow I'm sticking with the Greot's no doubt, just thought somebody might have some tips or tricks to save money, or get even better results. Like the magic eraser thing, I added that one a while back, and it works really well on the plastic, plus there cheap. I get them for, 2 for a $1 where I get my degreaser, and windex. I honestly don't think I could get a car any cleaner, or shinier, but it never Hurts to ask. I'm honestly putting all the shops around me to shame, they use dollar store tire wet, and turtle wax, and spray the carpets full of water and suck it up, and call it a detail. Had a guy bring me a Jeep like mine, that the local shop had sprayed so much water in it that it blew a fuse, and wouldn't start, and when we took a plug out of the floor, water ran out for 5 minutes. And this is a local business with a shop in our local town. Pretty sorry thing to do to someone's $10k dollar vehicle. I'm really surprised they don't have a steam cleaner, or a extractor. I'm just a small based home business, and I got both.

Did you actually blow the sub, and if so, how much power and time did it take? Or was it just needing a refresh, just curious how long one would last at max RMS.

I offer a special that starts at $50, but that's not any buffing. I just shampoo all the seats, and carpets, if they need it and I take off any stains on the plastic with magic erasers, then I use Greot's black shine trim spray, to bring the dash, and all plastic and trim, back to a bright shine, then I wash and quick wax the car, and do all the windows, and door jams. I use a lot of super degreaser, and carpet cleaners, I get for a $1 a bottle at a wholesale place. My buddy's give me giant rolls of shop towels so I don't even pay for those, and the only thing that I'm really out is the tire shine, and detailing spray, it's $10.99 a can, but I can do 1-3 cars with one can. Plus I'm retired and working out of my home for cash, so I can afford to do it a lot cheaper then someone who has to earn a living at it. The 2 shops in town by me charge double, and don't do half the job I do. Now there are a few show cars I do that I charge a $100, but that's for everything, cleaning and polishing it 360'. I have also used olive oil on some leather seats. Basically when I get done with a car it's spotless, stain free, with a deap shine that looks like it's wet. Try you some of that Greot's black shine tire and trim shine, it's amazing. You can litterelly spray it on something plastic, or rubber with mud on it, and it will leave it looking wet, and brand new. Only bad thing about it, is it will pick up a lot of lint, and dust over time, but it's well worth it.

lol I do them for $50 all day, every day, but I live in a poor place so no way is anybody gonna pay those prices. Now when I lived in detriot, I charged $100 and up and couldn't keep up. But that hundred didn't go as far, as that $50 does now. But that is a special I got that doesn't include buffing. It takes me about 2-4 hours, depending on the vehicle. But I am a retired Rodbuster, so I'm not doing it to earn a living, if I was obviously I would have to charge more. Plus it's all cash so that helps to. Plus I work out of a garage at my home, so I got no over head, except supply's which are a $1 a bottle, except tire wet, I use the greot's and it's $10 a can, and the wax's and polishes. Probably why I keep a waiting list. You just gotta remember this is appalachia, not a big city, so we got one of the lowest cost of living economy's.