JimJ

Either will be more than enough for what you're doing. Just concentrate on fitting the largest you can.

I have 1000. oops. I'm sure I'll test its limits. Be very careful. This Mag is not an ""SQL"" driver that'll take 2kW if you decide to get froggy with it...I managed to tap backplate with it, and if I could do that, that says something

They're both types of valve regulated lead acids, the difference lies in how the electrolyte is constructed. What exactly are you getting at with "car audio" purposes? Competition where you're chasing every last dB?

Well, their Status drivers are Scans, nothing wrong with those The Type X's were always overpriced compared to the OEM Vifa drivers...anything lower isn't worth a mention.

Are we talking F1 Status or otherwise?

Let me guess, you listen to mostly rap/hip hop? They'll sound fine for that...

It loves sealed enclosures, put about 500W on it and smile I liked that sub a lot.

You're asking for two polar opposites...which is it?

Do you have an Ipod or something similar? Pull the LOC out, and try another source...

Power isn't everything. You also have to consider the efficiency of the sub, and the enclosure...having a lot of power doesn't guarantee you'll have lots of SPL, and having a low-powered amp isn't automatically inferior. If more people knew this, I doubt we'd see anywhere near the amount of "I need a recone" threads that we do.

I wouldn't mind incorporating some of this stuff into cooling my music server, I don't care at all about making it faster but I would like to get rid of the annoying CPU fan noise. I can get quiet case fans but it's difficult finding a CPU cooler that will fit a non-standard Dell server socket.

I've pounded on an SAZ-1500d for over an hour in the texas heat (105 degrees)..didn't shut down. Unless you are going with RF's Type RF stuff, you'll find that Sundown is a much beefier product. The 1500d is pretty heavy. In fact, it weighed and little more than my US Amps USA-2000x. RF = radio frequency, not Rockford Fosgate

I'll leave head unit integration to someone that knows that better. For tweeters/midbasses, start reading here: http://www.zaphaudio.com. You should be able to find a pair of tweets and midbasses under $200 new, potentially a lot less if you shop around for used ones. For amplifiers, I wouldn't bother with anything new. For your front stage, you'll be likely looking for a small 4-channel, and a small monoblock or 2-channel for the subwoofer. Subs are the least important item of the whole install. While garbage is garbage, don't spend a lot here. $150 maximum. Also, don't forget to budget for sound deadening. Two rolls would not be a bad start.

No, and just because you have that extra power, doesn't mean you need to use it If you can afford it, I'd probably go with the 1500D, little bit beefier, and would give you some options if you ever want to upgrade.

One of my favorite cars that I've heard uses Nobeliums...I don't think there's too much of a drawback for either when it comes to the tweets. When it comes to the midbass, I'd rather have the L6's or L8's I haven't heard the Leg. Pros yet, that could likely change my opinions towards the Hybrid. And I've heard enough JMLabs stuff to know what a bright tweeter sounds like

Beer can Gatling gun...I imagine those larger Coors cans would fly pretty well, maybe more stable in flight

Not that I'm complaining.

Going by really fast.

I like them a lot. The rest of JL's sub line is forgettable to me.

Next up...beer can launcher??

omg, like, JL sux, so overpriced, my friend's buddy's boy's cousin has deez twelves that out-bump anything yo Just including that in there.

Where do de feets go?

Tonight's going to be a late night

lawl

Audio amps are usually rated for continuous operation - you hear about duty cycle all day long for rating RF amplifiers, because the transmitter isn't actually modulating the input 100% of the time in some modes, but it isn't a commonly used term for audio amps.