JimJ

How does it actually work, though? Voltage does not equal SPL...in no way, shape, or form. Doesn't matter how accurate the DMM is. If I take Woofer A with Amplifier A out of whatever install it's in and put it in another, I'm likely to get an entirely different reading, even if I've got the same level of power down to however many digits of precision you want. Measuring pressure is the key here...how is this meter doing that?

Ah, James Taylor in his heroin days...

There are higher-powered Zenon boards...however the market for anything larger than 3kW, hell, even 3kW is so small that it may be a long time before you'll see one in a Sundown.

I think you mean SPL, because nothing in your post really has anything to do with sound quality...

I'd still rather have a 'Mog

Too easy... Or a Unimog and a Prius

Since the biggest variable in determining SPL is the environment, I don't see how voltage has any shred of anything to do with it...it doesn't even make sense on a theoretical level.

Depends on the class. I've gotten profs that range from wanting to give everyone B+'s to a guy who taught an intro environmental law class where the class average on the final was in the low 60s and he didn't curve at all. Usually it falls somewhere in the mid to high C range, though...

Got a 73 on my VBA midterm...class average was 70. I'm expecting a curve.

Three years is a long time even for hospitals. I've had an erroneous charge like that before, only took them six months though.

Well, for the demographic they're marketed towards, you're either going to get SPL numbers or reviews like that, what else are you looking for?

Maybe I should change my location...

Next week when I get back to Tech, sure. I'm not near reliable broadband now...

A small speaker box would benefit far more from perpendicular bracing in it than a layer of eDead, whether it sticks or not.

Are we comparing companies or products here? Summary, it's totally install dependent and given the right install any one of those could be made to sound like ass easily. Honestly, I think the Fi Q stands up very well to the W6v2 in terms of accuracy, for all the engineering that went into the W7 I'm not really a fan of it.

I've had the Perception DVD-A box set playing a lot lately. 7GB and worth every friggin' one. Yeah, c'mon, I tripled 3/4" on my 6.5" enclosures, time to step those shelves up...

Unless you have an SUV or cargo van, I'd hold off on making a TL. Even a folded line takes up a fair amount of space...5 cubic feet for a 12" TL really is tiny. I would look here for info on them: http://www.quarter-wave.com http://www.t-linespeakers.org

Whoever changed my location, nice I got a laugh out of that...

Honestly, either the SE's or Soundsplinters sealed.

By the time you're likely to cause significant structural damage to your vehicle...you won't be asking whether or not you could.

3/4" material, either MDF if you're carpeting or painting or perhaps birch ply if you're staining...

Post some pictures of it so we can get an idea. If they're standard Molex or Cinch-Jones type plugs you might be able to find direct replacements from Digi-Key, Mouser, Jameco or one of the other big electronics mail order places.

Audiocontrol, Arc Audio, many of the major manufacturers also make pretty decent outboard EQ's. Ideally, you should be able to EQ the left and right channels seperately.

Just out of curiosity, did you compare equally-tested installs in a very similar acoustic environment? Just because something "knocks harder" (whatever that means) in one install does not hold true universally.

1) They can help shape the frequency response if you have some conditions that mess around with FR, they can improve the overall soundstage. Used with a real time analyzer, you can make the FR of your system to be whatever you want it to be, from flat to gradually sloping to whatever works in your particular install. 2) Usually right after the preamp and before the crossovers & power amplifiers...