JimJ

I have never heard of cone related failures with the titanium cones, and the issue with the aluminum cones from TC sounds has been dealt with and fixed. Seen it with my own eyes...they're not immune to the problem. More resistant than the aluminum cones? Sure. And that Pierce Audio driver is nice looking, but the WMD we tested before was a turd. Really didn't do anything notable, subjectively or objectively...

If you're buying based on SQ, how loud it gets is a side effect...

Which is exactly one of the reasons why I'm out to prove that wrong If this was for stereo...those JBL's mated to a 300Hz tractrix horn would be devastating. 113'ish dB/W on the top end, midbass efficiency in the mid to upper 90s...

Head unit power...first problem right there. What you're hearing is a lack of dynamic range, you simply don't have enough undistorted power to get as loud as you want. Get an external amp capable of 50-100W per channel and you'll noticed a night and day difference.

Are you running them off head unit power? Maybe a moderator could move this to the correct section, too

They'll fail under stress in the same way aluminum will

I'd use the Orion or used JBL BP1200.1 before a lower-end Hifonics any day... Wire the coils in series.

Yeah I have no idea what did it. I have a complete alpine system. I have Alpine Type R component speakers, Type R 6x9's the Alpine 4 channel MRV-F345 amp the Alpine MRD-M1005 amp, the alpine CDA-9857 headunit and the 12" type R. I figured they would all work well together. Obviously not. The only thing I could think of that would have blown the sub would be overpowering it with the gain up to high. But the gain is set to .7 out of a possible 8. So i'm not sure and I don't know to much about this stuff anyways to diagnos the problem. When it blew, I was listening to my Ipod at volume 25 out of a possible 35 and the bass was working fine. I pushed the next button and I'm Shinin' (a bass song) came on, but not one note a bass came from the sub. I dunno what happened.. It sucks... So you've pulled out the sub and checked to see that the coil was fried, or spider damaged, etc... A sub blowing, like a fuse blowing, is indicative of problems elsewhere, and that's what I meant by my comment to find out what took out the R before buying another driver that might do the same thing.

If someone were to run 5kW daily, they wouldn't be hearing...much of anything

The rattles that I have aren't in the dash I need to do some more research though, as of now I'm not exactly sure where the motor is in the first place...

Heat blower in the van apparently went out, still have heat but the fan isn't happening... Not really looking forward to taking the dash apart.

Heck, I'd buy a few for that price

Maybe you should read more before trying to give "advice" again. I knew there was a reason I banned you from CA.com.

Define "pretty cheap".

I'm thinking CSS/Adire FR125's in either transmission lines or one of Planet10's excellent designs for them. Maybe it's the crossoverless-single driver weenie in me speaking, but they're cheap and extend pretty low in the right enclosures.

2kW is the manufacturer's recommended level.

I hate to say it Aaron, but U2 is about as good of an example as you can get for that theory

Listen to WYWH or Meddle and then listen to Momentary Lapse of Reason... Piper's an amazing album, but it's like early Moody Blues - it has to grow on you, and since it's such a period piece you can't seperate it from the time it was recorded.

Wish I could make it

i kno peeka de engleesh

Simply adding more power to the same driver is about one of the worst ways to get your score up.

Can't forget http://www.linkwitzlab.com/

Looks like fleckstone. Covers imperfections really well...and isn't exactly cheap. Works and looks good though

$300 for all four?

If you haven't already read it, Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook is worth the read...