JimJ

I'd figure out why the Type R blew before buying another sub, myself

Depends on your budget, electrical system to support it, and how attached you are to the volume knob Comparing apples to kiwis. Your vehicle, competition class (if any), and the stuff I mentioned previously will determine what's the better choice.

It's listed on the site, go look at the product pages.

If it blew because of user error...good luck with that one.

Mine's up here... http://bigbassman.realmofexcursion.com

Doesn't get any easier than direct ordering...

I'd look into an alternator in the 220-250A range and the largest deep cycle battery you can fit/afford...

You have enough room to have side-by-side 18's and enough port area, horizontally?

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?pre...&1185312757 I used to have a NAD 3020 (the integrated amp version of that)...really cool unit. Two pairs of preouts for a sub connection, you'd just need a suitable crossover on whatever amp you went with for the sub. Decent phono stage if you ever want to get into vinyl, too.

Check Audiogon. There's a couple others that I saw on there; NAD, Bryston, and others.

Without any other changes, I'd be hesistant about a 145...

I don't know of many amps that would have line level outputs...

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?pre...&1184871114 That's one heck of a deal. I have an ARC preamp, and I love the thing. Blows the Rogue Audio 66 that I had out of the water.

Just re-read. $300 is a doable budget. Give me a few minutes and I'll have some links.

Provide a way to control volume, channel balance, switch different sources, overcome signal loss in the interconnects, and match impedances from the source to the amp(s). Anything cheaply built, or something that introduces noise into your system If you're talking about running multiple amps for stereo, you can use Y-adapters if your amps have left/right inputs. Mine were dedicated monoblocks, so I just have a single RCA lead from each to the outputs of the pre. For multichannel, there are ready-made 5.1 pre/processors that have individual outputs for left/right mains, rears, and center.For an active/bi-amped setup, you'd run a cable to the input of the crossover and plug the amps into their appropriate passbands. What's your budget?

Makes me wish Mr. Cook was still posting

Given enough cone area, anything's possible I just have a hard time believing you can send a couple kW to a BTL and not have major problems with localization.

Sounds like you're going about things the wrong way, if you're looking for midbass...

Now that looks good Any pictures of how you made those? Gave me an idea for mine...

Engaged in a "discussion" with a guy over on Audioasylum who claims he can hear differences in speaker wire lengths down to 1/32'th of an inch. I swear, I don't know what's worse...n00bx arguing about what bangs louder or people who should know better arguing about what molecular formation of copper sounds the best. :shrugs:

A $40k Jeep is disgusting. From the looks of those options, and the large wheels, they're obviously not expecting the owner to ever see rougher roads than maybe some broken pavement during their commute. Or maybe a gravel driveway.

Compared to what?

I don't see a problem with it.

It's on the site, no games there I've yet to hear anything from DD sound remotely good...if it's out there, it's hiding from me

Listen to some audiophiles talk about how loud 100dB is and tell me it's not "weak bass" If the song doesn't have it...no point in adding it