JimJ

To answer your question, the Sundown site has two dealers listed for Statesville

Didn't expect to see anyone from Durham here When I'm down there, I'm about 10 minutes from there...folks' place is in Hillsborough.

I speak ze truf

What do you guys use for DME antennas? Just collinear verticals?

Was Lord Baccus there?

I preferred it sealed, but you're looking for something very different...

Of course, JL doesn't have chit on Fi Taking price out of the picture, I don't think I'd make that statement... If you could swing the price without having to sacrifice anything else, I'd probably go with the W6v2s. But the SSDs would be a good option if you didn't want to spend that much, either. I don't see how 400-450W is a problem, personally

Can you post a picture of your door mounting?

The two biggest things that stick out to me is a lack of sound deadening mentioned and a two-channel amp - get the 4-channel instead, I'm not sure if that head unit supports active bi-amping but I'd get one that could if it doesn't. Other than that, looks fine. How things are installed is far more important than what is installed, anyway

When what we're covering in class isn't even on the PMP exam, and I can't even get a Google hit for what he's talking about... Something is wrong. Fuck it. I have a 90 something average on the previous two quizzes, going to wing this one though.

I have another way of avoiding that problem...not playing T-pain

Makes me miss my bull terriers

#1 - The RMS rating of the sub is a thermal rating of the coil - that's it. In no way does it mean that you need to send it that much power, that's installation dependent... #2 - No, the efficiency going down at lower impedance loads has to do with the amount of current being drawn to make that power - an efficiency of 60% means that 60% of the current drawn is converted into usable power, with 40% lost to heat.

Ugh.

They'll break in under normal usage...

I'd probably go with the Q, and yes, you can invert the sub...

http://www.parts-express.com/webpage.cfm?&WebPage_ID=3 B&C makes compression drivers that actually have the potential to sound decent...I'd avoid using a PA horn in a vehicle, though, the dispersion pattern is wrong for how you'd have to mount it. Going active is really the only practical solution for these, you could go passive but you'd have to pad the hell out of the horn to keep it from overpowering the midbass. These are finicky enough that you really want the ability to attenuate and change crossover points on the fly.

In that case I'd go with horns made for under-dash mounting, such as ID ones, or Illusion Audio, or USD...and compression drivers with more linearity. Horns can be incredibly detailed and realistic, but like anything if you let it overpower everything else, you can toss "good sounding" out the window

If all he wants is volume, they're a good idea. Very high efficiency, extremely bright...

If you're melting typical 60/40 rosin core, something is fundamentally wrong with the circuit (to put it mildly). The only reason I could see not to "trust" solder would be structurally, strain reliefs may help on wires that have a potential of stressing the joint, but the thermal limits are something I wouldn't think about. Welding cable, IIRC, is rated to 90 or 100C...well under a typical working temperature for a soldered joint. Ever hear the expression "A closed mouth gathers no feet?"

We pulled all those in in less than an hour wtf? how come I'm never around fishing like that? probably because I live in kansas. Where I'm used to fishing for stripers, none of those would have been legal to keep

I'd rather have an H701 instead of the Imprint stuff, but that's just me...

You guys really are nuts, I wouldn't have wanted any of that in my dorm room Heck, we didn't even have a TV...used to go to our neighbor's room to watch it.

We're a horrible influence

His way will result in a box that will peak much higher, and sound very exaggerated with a significant loss in the low end.