RaTtLz

what a great write up! Thanks for that. I know a lot of people on the ssa forums dislike bass knobs and such, but as I have a factory head unit with no sub control, I think they might be a good alternative. More specifically the Soundstream bx-20z. It's a little cheaper than the epicenter and it will look sick with my tarantula amp. As it has a remote knob I can easily adjust from my dash.

Hi guys, had this question in my head for a few days now so I thought I would just ask. I was wondering what the difference is(if any) between a standard bass knob or a bass processor such as an epicenter from Audio control. More specifically, a potentiometer vs. a parametric eq. How do they work? Do they increase voltage? What exactly is going on when you crank on that knob? Thanks

SoundStream Tarantula, what model?? As far as I know, there is no model number just Tarantula monoblock. I believe they were produced in either 2003 or 2006. Im not getting mine till tomorrow from fed-ex. I downloaded the user manual and there is no model number on there either. Edit to add: there are pics in my "patiently waiting" post in the amp section along with the specs on the unit Oh and thanks Impious for the explanation

Alright impious, thats kind of what I was thinking. So for example, take eclipse, they claim an 8 volt preout. what they are saying is that is the max voltage the h/u can attain so set an amp to that?

O.k. I will be hooking up my amp (soundstream 2000w monoblock) to my factory h/u via a PAC audio plug-n-play (c2a-chy) harness. The rca voltage isn't fixed and will be adjusted as the radio vol. is increased up to 5 volts. My question is, in order to set the gains on my amp, do I just set by ear with a test tone or get a line driver and have that fixed voltage to set my gain with a dmm. My amp has a range of 300mV-5V max. Thanks guys !

Thank you! what do i need to do in order for it to work the first time?

dam how do i get the pics to show up? lets try this. much better

Ordered my amp! It's an old school Soundstream Tarantula monoblock. Specs are as follows: Continuously Variable Low-Pass Crossover Three Stage Level Input Indicators Output Clipping Indicators Phase Inversion Switch (0 - 180ﾺ) Selectable Differentially Balanced Line Inputs Fully Balanced PS-2 Input Line Output Gold-Plated 1/ ? Power Connectors Discrete Balanced Class A Drive Boards maximize linearity on low impedance loads Drive Delay 2? eliminates "turn-on" and "turn-off" pops and noises Chassisink? Semiconductors are situated between the circuit board and heat sink for optimal thermal transfer Power Grid? design optimizes current delivery to and from the power supply Tone Sweep Calibration optimizes the power supply to the connected speaker load. All chrome plated NUMBER OF CHANNELS 1 OUTPUT POWER (WATTS): RMS @ 4 Ohms 2000 @ 12.6v RMS @ 2 Ohms 2000 @ 14.4V T.H.D.: <0.02% FREQUENCY RESPONSE (Hz): 20 - 500 SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: >86dB CHANNEL SEPERATION: >60dB DAMPING FACTOR: >500 INPUT SENSITIVITY: 300mV - 5.0V CROSOVER SLOPES: High-pass/Band-Pass 24dB CROSSOVER FREQUENCIES (HZ): Low-Pass 35 - 500 HAWKINS BASS CONTROL (SUBSONIC POSITION): Variable High Pass (no boost) 13 - 30Hz HAWKINS BASS CONTROL: (On position) Variable Bass Boost 30 - 70Hz Variable Bass Boost 0 - 9dB DIMENSIONS (INCHES) : 19 x 14 x 5.5

Congratulations OP for finding what has eluded many of us single people. That is true Love. I have a gf of 6 years that has 3 children from a previous relationship and they will always have a special place in my heart! To: The Assclown (you know who you are), Just remember that all these children grow up. The next time you go into a fast food joint, think of what you said as they serve you. The next time you post something on this great forum, think of what you said as they offer an answer (if they even want to). And heaven forbid you have an accident and end up in the hospital, think about what you said as they are saving your life. I think you get my point. Children are gifts from God.

Nicccccce!

I'll probably get flack for it but here is my recommendation Coldplay - Rush of blood to the head - whole album

looks like a glorified cap to me. makes me think of those batcaps that have been around a while. I'm not too familiar with electricals, but if your amp only pulls 273 arbitrary amps, what is the purpose of having up to 3600 burst amps? Can someone enlighten me?

what's up Bangin'? I'm liking your build! What's the deal with a Kenwood deck? Thought you were an ////Alpine man all the way? I looked at this receiver on Crutchfield and it says only the rear output is switchable from rear to sub. When it's switched over for sub that output becomes non-fading? this is directly from the site "The rear preamp outputs can be set in the menu to output a full range signal to the rear channels, or a filtered signal to a subwoofer. When set to subwoofer, the output typically has a selectable low-pass filter and is non-fading."

I gotta add BIG STAN from Robb Schnider. I like his older movies and his SNL days but that movie was utter

Duck tape??? Huh! That must be to keep the weight down, instead of using screws. I better stock up! Sorry, had to say it Awesome score by the way!!

I picked that wood for a couple of reasons. Because I am a first time builder, I want to make a box the most basic way I know how. That way is thick wood so I don't have to use bracing. I decided that a 1 inch 4x8 sheet of mdf is gonna be hard to come by. I started looking around and found some 1 inch hardwood boards that go up to 20 inches wide and up to 12 feet long. The widest part of my box is 18 inches. So..... adding up the linear inches, I can get all my wood for around $65. There was one other choice other than oak which was aspen (a little cheaper). Upon further googling, I found that oak was the more dense and more rigid. Edit to add: There is still time to change things as I haven't bought the wood yet. I just thought around $65 was a good deal when people say they spend hundreds on boxes. You'll probably be buying new subs soon...... Why you tell me this? Can you elaborate please?

Ya thanks Shizzzon, I will be giving them about 1000 watts rms each which is also what PG recommends as a minimum. It's been 3 years since I've had boom in my ride. getting real close now woohoo!

hi everyone, I'm posting yet another topic to see if I can get any more excellent advice. In a previous post I stated that I was gonna build my own box. I know I want a sealed box. My goal is a real flat response. In my literature for my subs (Phoenix Gold titanium elite) they list 2 different recommendations for sealed boxes they are as follows: {Musical: Vb 1.6, F3 33 Hz} {SPL: Vb 1.0, F3 36Hz} My question to you guys is, Since I have 2 subs, What would be the outcome of making 1 box to musical specs and the other to the SPL spec. The speaker placement will be under the rear deck lid with subs facing the rear of the car. Car being my Chrysler 300. The box will be made of red oak. Hope this enough info. Let me know if i need to add any more. Thanks

from the looks of it, driver 3 on the left side is off 1/8th inch. so much for your symmetry! hahaha just foolin with ya

BLACK TOOTH GRIN anyone???

O.K. thanks for all the help guys

there is only 1 set of speaker terminals on the amp.

yes 1 single sealed box with divider in the middle

You're making it way more complicated than it is. Just wire the drivers in parallel-parallel as in the image above. No need to wire the drivers to the amplifier separately. I wasn't sure how to word it but on my box each speaker will have it's own terminal cup. so coming from the box there will be 2 +'s and 2 -'s going to the amp. Sorry for the confusion! I know what I'm trying to say

yes they are