Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

SSA® Car Audio Forum

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

crosspug

Members
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by crosspug

  1. Mate of mine is running a pair of Polk 8" subs as midbass (and before you say it I know what your thinking!!!!!!) 160hz down to roll off and they are very impressive. Especially for the price. He did a bucket load of research before buying them and like you is saving for a set of L8's or similar. Cheapish over on Amazon.com (for example) Not a traditional driver but a left field one that might be of interest. He is using them semi-IB in the kicks vented behind the guards. Polk Audio db840 Its the db840 above..... Jono
  2. Quite good midbass, quite easy to get them to sound good, not the most detailed set in the world but seriously for the price they are a steal. Amazon had them for dirt cheap a while ago but seems they are back to $75-80 a set new. Just something to consider which would be value for money and a little nicer than 90% of the stuff in that price range. Jono
  3. Phoenix Gold RSD65 components have had a pretty good rep for a while now. VERY good value for money........ Wooferetc - PG RSD65 Jono PS. Don't get the Mach 5 MLi's without having a tweeter, they are fantastic but NEED a tweeter for highs.
  4. Interesting, I've only now found the *real* midbass benefits of these lovely little drivers as they are now only playing 50-500hz compared to 63/80-2.5khz before. Only the pair in some well deadened doors and 200wrms per driver BAM I can't say complete bass up front (obviously not subbass stuff) but certainly helped a lot. With the less "range" of freq's to play and a notch or two up from minimum on the gains and I'm VERY impressed. Jono
  5. Very Nice........
  6. Dude seriously three bumps of a thread in like an hour???........ Wait for an answer.
  7. I'm of the belief that the Zuki 2 x 15w is in the order of 2 x 150-175w at those THD's. Jono
  8. Urrrgghhh????? Please tell me you actually made a box for those W7's and they aren't just playing free air in a parcel shelf?! ??
  9. From what I've been told anything up to 2/3 amps should be fine daisy chaining. I've used a simple 12v relay for my 3 amps now but didn't really notice a difference. Jono
  10. Remote wire....... the headunit should have a remote wire (usually blue) And you could just have a manual switch somewhere on the dash to turn them on? they only require a 12v source to "wake up" EDIT* Oh LOL Godsmack*
  11. FYI Do not do that at full volume............. Headunits will clip the signal to the RCA's before full volume is reached. Try setting the gains with the headunit at 3/4 volume. For example my Eclipse CD7200mk2 will clip the preouts at volume 69/80. Also bass boost will make the signal clip earlier. Jono
  12. Inverted subs can have mechanical noise from the motor (as its not muffled by the box), well thats one reason.......... Does depend on the sub though.
  13. Ah..... but the OP is asking about speakers not subs...............
  14. Your thread Any reason for the multiple threads?
  15. It can do 2ohm fine...... Read this..... BPX500.1 review Jono
  16. Can't complain about mine tuned to 31hz, goes quite low....... certainly much better than when it was tuned to 36-38hz. Between 30-32hz would be nice IMHO. Jono
  17. Yep, a great value for money mid. I've used it for midbass (63hz-500hz) and midrange (80hz-2500hz wouldn't go higher though) and have been really happy with its performance. Easily keeps up with more expensive equipment even off axis mounted in a door. Certainly came alive when I threw 200wrms at it compared to the 50wrms I had before. Jono
  18. Mine sounded good in 0.75cft excluding the sub displacement but Mach5 recommend sealed 0.85cft (not much different). Jono
  19. Lucky Boy Luke (Darn those F2/500's sold quick)............. Can't wait to see this with the DR's in your car. Jono
  20. Exactly, clean power and not over done more power is not bad to have. I have 200wrms going to each mid and 200wrms to each tweeter (both rated at 75wrms) without an issue FWIW...... but then again I'm not trying to keep up with a large sub install.
  21. Also remember that it won't be getting a full 150wrms unless your playing it full tilt......... Amps aren't light switches........
  22. Just measure it with string, guessing won't help especially if its too short. I use an 80w soldering iron for 0gauge terminals and it works fine. Certainly doesn't "melt the wire" but does make a decent length (20inches) quite warm. You could also crimp the terminals on (using a true crimping tool). Whatever the hell makes decent unclipped power. Some/Most believe that running RCA's near power wire can cause noise...... Should be fine IMHO. Jono
  23. I would always recommend round subs over square. Please clarify exactly why. Derrr..... Sine waves are curved not square...... its obvious a square woofer wouldn't work....... Couldn't resist

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.