jellyfish420

did you go up there? i took first!!!!!

i cut most of the rear deck and rear seat support out of my old beretta, and nothing bad ever happened to my car. i'm not saying its the right thing to do.....

nope...not on mine? do the rl-p's maybe have a little thicker cone then the rl-i's? or will they just do that over time? i heard somewhere that eventually cones made out of aluminum will bend from the heat and stress. is this what happened to the cone, or is that even true?

why does it look like there's circles in the middle of them? and did you already ding one of em? i think i see a ding on the right one

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee <{POST_SNAPBACK}> like you haven't seen an rl-i before other than that lets see some pics..... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

x2....but i say put the subs in the bed and do a blow thru

kcuf sa kcis !!!lleh sa tsaf dna !erofeb siht nees evah dluow i hsiw

if your only having one port make it bigger. something like 25hx7wxlenght. 175in^2 port for 2 18's....pretty sweet

it would be perfect if it peaked @ 40Hz. i'm getting metered this weekend at a local comp

my brother has almost the same setup..2 L7 12's w/ 500 watt a piece. my 2 RL-p 15's w/ 700 a piece absolutly murder his in SPL and SQ

thank you, thank you today i got to drive around and listen. oh my god! there is such a diferance! i don't know whether the gain is from my higher response peak, or my lower impedance curve. it's probably equally both of them.......doesn't go quite as low, but who really drives around and listens to 15Hz test tones? well.... i did a couple of times, cause i could.

here are some pics of the db's i got beside my re 6.5. they look tiny here are my cdt cl-6x's...they're even bigger than the polks! sad, i never got to here the polks in the car:( they're 6.5's that measure not quite 6.25".

here's a better graph .........

x2 bbp6 wasn't even close on mine

the 6-6.5 sounds nice...but 50 in port? but if you got the room i'd do about 120in a piece. i usually try to do 20-25in^2 port per cube of the box. its just always worked really well for me

i butchered up my box today. i cut off a bunch of port, then put in 2 boxes i made that take up 1ft^3. so now i have a 6ft net box @ 31Hz instead of 6ft @ 23Hz. i ploted the impedance again. here it is. i have a side by side to. it looks like this one is gonna be better as far as making better use of the amp this makes me happy i did them in diff colors but for some reason my scanner is only doing b&w

older tl I believe <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yup..older tl, none the less still a good score and kent ygpm

i LOVE the sound of mine. subs and port firing forward. here is a link to some pics. construction pics, page 1. finished pics page 2 & 3. http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.p...&highlight=rl-p

in a tl the line gradually gets smaller as it gets to the mouth, right?

i also believe(i'm not for sure) that the way the subs are wired makes a difference. ie. dvc 4 ohm wired series has diff t/s parameters then the same dvc 4 ohm wired parallel.

passive, passive, passive!!! naw you better go active!

i am trying my hand at some horn's for the mids from my re6.5 comp set, the tweeters blew so i got new comps coming, and desided to put these in the living room. so how does this look? anything you see wrong or horn tips would be greatly appreciated

looks good...now i want more pics

i like you and all mike...but i would have to disagree. the last box i had my 2 15's in was tuned to 37Hz and it did exceptionally well. it hit all the lows, and it would literally hit you it the back of the head! but either way definatly stay away from the prefab boxes!!! my box tuned @23 IMO is a little overkill for in car. i'm sure for HT where i could get some more port out of it, it would kick some ass! i think i'm gonna cut some of the port out of it and add some 2x4's, to manipulate the box to around 6ft^3 net @ ~34Hz. hopefully next weekend i'll get this box metered and see how it does against the smaller, higer tuned box.