ShaneSauce

I'm taking it your looking for a better 12? What all are you going to upgrade?

wow 2nd time I have actually lol'd tonight. I must me in the loling mood. First it was 3db grills and now engraving Fi into your hair and telling people their chit don't slap.

I'm really glad I looked at this thread. I really need a efficient amp that puts out rated power, sundown seems like the way to go. And wow running a 1500d on stock electrical and only dropping to like 13.4 compared to the RF dropping to 12.2

Looking really clean. I'm not sure if you noticed but the license plate number is in clear view. Idk if you care but just letting you know.

I wonder if the single magnet motor is cheaper for production than the triple stacked one?

That's honestly the first time I have lol'd reading anything on this forum. About the grills adding 3db, wow idk why that was so funny.

I'm positive I could fit a 6 1/2" in the front door it would just take a little grinding, I'm pretty sure there is enough clearance for the window also. And the amp is probably going to be a kicker zx750.1 or a USAMP MD-1D. Heck maybe even a refurb SAE-1000 if I get lucky. I got $85 from my aunt, I am probably going to go ahead and get the amp wiring, and I was gonna put the rest into some deadening for the trunk at least until I can deaden the doors and everything.

I play MLG, our team went to MLG Dallas for Halo 3 and placed 57th out of 200 something. That makes us semi-pro halo players. We had a partial sponsor who paid for our team pass and hotel. Anyways I'm really good at Halo 3 add me. Shaneeeee Train Here are my stats on my old live account. bam

The big 3 is when you upgrade 3 main cables dealing with your electrical up to 0GA. You would be changing these cables from 4 to 0 gauge. 1) Alternator positive to battery positive 2) Battery negative to chassis 3) Engine ground to chassis Obviously you need 0 gauge wire, about 20 feet or so. And you need (6) 0 gauge wire terminals to bolt down to all of these connections.

Oops I didn't even realize this was in the SSA section..

No gain does not affect the amp like that. If that was the case then you could turn the gain all the way down and the amp would be putting out 0 watts, but that's not how gain works. It mostly depends on how far you have your volume turned up, part of it gains, how many volts your electrical is sustaining etc.

Oh so each speaker doesn't get a channel? Each crossover does? Well that's convenient, thanks for the help.

I need a little help everybody. I'm not going to run coax on the front doors. But my door is only 4" and I don't know of any good component sets for 4". I'm thinking 4" mid bass in the door and some nice dome tweeters in the pillars. But I'm gonna leave my 6 1/2" coax's in the rear deck just because of money, and they sound really nice and clear on 50 watts. Last question, how would I go about powering all of this? I would have 6 channels.

Are you going to be making the box yourself? How much room do you have? What music do you listen to? How many watts are you looking at running? Upgrading electrical? Budget?

Ah I remember hearing about you. Doing 180's with a single sub all I can say is damn.. :clap: Have you ever actually taken the 180db to the dome? I am foreshadowing some hearing loss in the future.

Not trying to thread jack but I have a sticker question. When you order a Fi sub you get a sticker with the order right? And I was wondering if I could get a Fi shirt along with my sub for the extra $10.

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet I just ordered my 15. SSD, Dual1, CopperCoil. I'm going to be running it @ 2ohm obviously. Couldn't be happier. edit: I forgot to mention my dad was really hesitant, he didn't want me to buy a sub from a brand name he has never heard of. I tried to explain to him its all hand crafted quality stuff, but I figured I'll just let him hear it in person and see if that changes his view.

With those exact dimensions you can get about 4.2 cuft after port displacement. But the after sub displacement you will be looking at 4 cuft. I'm using the RE box calculator for this btw, I used it with my box and it turned out perfect. It gives you the box cutouts and everything. click Because of the shape of the box the port width would be 3.5", the box is 18" deep so the actual port piece would go back 15.5". The 2nd piece of port will be 8 inches long and it should run parallel with the back piece of the box.

Well I actually built the box so I could use either 1 15 or 2 12's just whatever I decided to get. Its almost 4 cubes after port displacement, I haven't cut the holes for the subs either.

Could I get a little reassurance on the 2 12" RE SE? The sub+amp package seems too good to pass up.

I understand. What do you guys think about this deal? Its pretty tempting, plus the great thing about the box I built is that I can use 2 12's or 1 15 whichever I decide on. click

I'm looking forward to a brand new fresh woofer on my doorstep. Also I have bought/traded things on a forum before and I got gyped.

Good stuff right there, I just had a XXL can of it.

No thanks

I saw the optidrives a while back at db-r for $199 refurbished. Is it worth it? The guts look promising, but I don't see any fuses anywhere..