Beandip

So that shorted coil disturbed the magnetic field and limited movement which cooked the sub right? Just curious, I've done a ton of stupid things to old subs in the pursuit of learning but never shorted out a coil the way the OP did.

Should be fine man. I have a sundown 1500 on my old Q. 1500 watts is the max continous power that it can handle, there is no minimum. On a side note, why is the 18" "limited" to 1kw?

That's what I thought of when I saw it, but I'm sure Jacob has done a few more than I have. yeah i would say quite a bit more LOL The coil isn't supposed to move at this point. It's kinda easier if the coil has little movement and can (lightly) hold it's own downwards tension while the spider is glued. Maybe that's just me though... ^ i agree, mine wasnt super tight on the fitting but wasnt loose either. it would hold itself down while the epoxy set. i was just saying its like having 1 lug nut missing on a rim...sure the wheel wont fall off with the other 4 holding it, but it wouldnt hurt to have all 5. in my case i needed 3 layers, so i cut each piece to where it wraps around the coil about what Jacobs did but rotated each layer 120º so it would be one continuous piece and the gaps would be evenly spaced apart from each other. then cut a notch in the paper so i could easily align it once it was set in the coil gap. also a roll of masking tape was perfect holding the shim in its form. but like i said i doubt the coil will go anywhere with it being wrapped around over 90%...just something i did since it seemed logical and it was my first time and didnt want anything to be messed up.

Great list going to try these out tomorrow!

sweet. when i made shims for my re-cone i offset the paper openings from one another, i didnt want to leave a gap like the one shown above. not saying you did it wrong, but i was being "better safe than sorry" at the time. doubt the coil will move when over 90% is wrapped with paper.

nothing crazy like most of the videos here but i decided to make a short video with a song that you would least expect to bump. at first your like , but then your like . if you have a low tuned ported box this song may be for you. Sorry for all the rattles (hard to tell because of the paper) but the garage florescent lights didnt like all the bass lol. also why the vocals have a bit of an echo being in a garage...

Probably be just fine at 2 ohms, not much of a difference between 600 - 1000 watts for daily use.

Here is one that is pretty good. not sure what it peaks at but it gets LOW, maybe 25 hz at some parts. all i know its really unexpected for a song like this to have a bassline. maybe even lower than 20 hz because usually with one window down @ 20 hz shakes everything in my truck but in this song its silent almost (i mean you cant feel it). you'll see once you play it.

Gain position means nothing if an amp can put out max power or not. It can put full power on the minimum gain or the max, just depends on the input voltage from the RCA. The voltage the amp is putting out doesn't mean anything either unless you measured current as well. Then you'd have a ballpark measurement.

Sure am been on that forum forever, since 06. when it comes to audio i read/learn here.

Sure its not a loose dust cap? check around the glue joint for any separation. does it always do it at any volume or only when its turned up?

X2 on this. I was confused what the N1 will actually be. I do suppose it goes along with the N series but at the same time it doesn't belong in that category by heart. A true to it's roots SQ driver sounds awesome, at the same time I think my Q covers both spl and sq nicely. Makes it tempting to pick one up though.

Great to see what goes on behind the scenes.That bar stock for the poles look HEAVY! Considering the amount of labor involved it's amazing that you guys make them in the timeframe that you do.

Joking aside, I am kinda curious on seeing a video.

He could get the 2000 just for upgrade room, but who says he has to wire it at 1 ohm? He could wire it at 2 ohm and be easier on the electrical and not kill the subs from accidental too much power.

Ah. Glad to see that won't happen here. Misinformation doesn't get far with you guys around. I was unaware of the users "background".

I noticed something similar when my ground cable on my welder turned into a magnet when welding. i was wondering how the metal dust arranged itself in such an odd pattern, then it hit me lol. first time ever seeing the wires on a subwoofer do that though. reason why is really simple but just something you dont see every day. probably never see it because whenever you do free air a sub you are probably playing a 20+ hz tone so i think the wire wont react as quick, if anything will vibrate at the frequency you are playing and you just think its from the sub. one question though...why is that guy even bothering "breaking in" those subs? once i checked my coil for any rubbing after i reconed it i just installed then cranked it....life went on as usual.

^x2 on that! This type of stuff needs to be stickied! I had a feeling sealed and IB would output the same (theoretically) but never stopped and thought about the shape of the frequency response.

So is everything working now? And it wouldn't hurt to do the big 3, its cheap insurance. Oh and now you know what that crackling noise was for future reference

The factory volt meter may not update as quickly so it looks like you have good voltage yet it dips and recovers faster than the gauge can show. :edit: and no big 3 upgrade either? What size alt do you have?

Sounds like the dust cap man. really there isnt anything else that will "stop" rattling when its pushed down other than the dust cap. check around the glue joint better, look closely.

^ possible, especially if wired parallel. any way you can get a video of this noise?

You will see to the left is the normal round wire coil, the right, flatwound. as far as i know it can be upgraded no problem. well at least it worked on my Q.

Well, finally got around to posting that video....i know its a bit half ass put together but it should do. i may seem like the "BL or BTL" type person but most of the time i keep it blended with the front stage. i do have some urges to crank it up though iphone mic acts weird with bass...

I dont believe that much as changed between the old Qs and the new one to make that big of a difference....not 100% sure though but i do have that little card Fi gave me showing sub specs and such back when i bought mine in 2009. i can snap a pic of it if you want.