antonmiller

yea we didnt get much done this weekend due to temperature conditions and power outages. but i do have some progress. i will post pics when i get home after work tonight. basically all we did was get one box all the interior boards in and fiberglass it again. but due to lack of hardener and poor temperature conditions in the room it didnt harden up fast enough to be able to get good progress on it. it was like under 50 degrees in the room. i know horrible.

i dont think im ready to go through all the work to seal off the trunk from the cab just yet. i want to try this out. but yes eventually over some time i will do that. just not right now. thanks for the input! I'm curious on how the testing went esp since I am running a single 12" BTL in the trunk but am on the verge of sealing the trunk off with sub and port facing the cabin but if either of these turn out well I would def consider them no testing has been done yet since none of the boxes are finished yet. when they are done ill post up some testing results by ear since i dont have a MIC, and i will also be using my BL for the initial tests. once i find a shop that doesnt charge 70$ to do some testing ill get some results up.

Home depot does tool rentals. im not sure about the rest... you could fiberglass then paint it. stain would look wierd IMO.

you could put some poly down where you are going to be spray in foaming that way when you go to spray it in it will protect the carpet and such from the foam. and when you go to take it out of the car it should be easy enough to just pull it out with out TOO much trouble.

so its about 8.660" for the new and about 7.48" for the old style. just grab a tape measure and find out.... if its around 8 1/2" around then its the 09 or newer and if its about 7 1/2" around then its the old style.

ill build two boxes just like you had stated above and let it dry for one week and do the test. i guarentee you that the wood will break before the liquid nails. the joints will not come apart at all. ive dropped a box i built back in high school from about 15 feet and it just dented a corner. never broke. hell ill even build 2 L shaped Bracket like things and see which one works better. and ill build it this week end. not just to prove a point. but to see for my self. oh and with liquid nails stay away from the small projects type. that would be considered the pl200 version. you need pl400 or better. thats the heavy duty liquid nails. pl800 is the best, thats what you glue concrete to concrete with! lol which type of wood glue should i use for the tests? what about gorilla wood glue has any one used that stuff?

liquid nails is amazing stuff. why do you think contractors use it on your subfloor sheething? and to hold boards to concrete? weve used it on my buddies house and screwed up on one and it pulled like 1/4" of concrete up with the board. the problem is that most people dont allow ample time for it to dry. it takes at least 48 hours to FULLY dry. then its indestructable.

the build will continue this friday or saturday. and be finished by sunday (hopefully) and i should have videos up then. but for now i have a week of working and then the weekend is dedicated to this project. thanks for all the comments!

yea we poured resin down the slits of the kerf. after it dried we tried to push on it and see if we could move it. and it didnt budge. its not like it needs to be strong or anything. there is a corner piece that protects it from all the pressure anyways.

yea me too!!! lol that is my friends grandpa's table saw. very nice piece of equiptment! you and me both!! if you guys down there in winona have another comp this summer you can see it in person

looks like they spent more money on the cosmetics then the performance to me. get one and see how they do. its only 70$

flaring the top would get too tall. i will be rounding the top and bottom with a router though. you know with the j's there isnt much room in the trunk for doing much. and one box is maxed out to just fit through the back seat hole and get in the trunk. and the other i wanted as short as i could get it to test my theory's.

forgot a couple pics. just found them. mainly assembly shots. i will be cleaning up the edges of the box. dont worry about that. lol

Hi All, A while back I had come up 2 designs to build for my 12" BTL. Click Here for Topic on Box Designs This next thing is quoted from the topic on the box designing. so this past week we started the build. pics below. so we started by trial and error on the kerfing. failures are below. then we finally got it right. we did .25" spacing for 4 inches, it should be a total of 17 cuts. and we also left about 1/32" of wood left. very thin. so after we got that right we finally started cutting the kerf for the other boards. we then ran into a snag with the paint can. when we opened it up it was broken. so since its easier to paint the pieces when they are not assembled on the box. we had to make do. here are some quick mock ups of what it will look like. now some assembly shots. more to come. this is as far as we got. next week end like not this up coming, but the one after they should be done.

Getting an Fi subwoofer is like going to a sit down restaurant compared to mcdonalds. sure you have to wait for your food to come out. but in the end its a much better result for a comparable price. Plus your food isnt sitting on a shelf for who knows how long... lol took my bl about 2 weeks to get here. you have to plan for that in your build. in the time you have to wait you can build a box and get your amp all set up and then when it comes you just put the sub in. thats what i did. its alot better than having a subwoofer sitting around waiting for a box to be built. id rather have a box built waiting for the sub to arrive.

i did this right up for a guy on youtube one time. by no means is it perfect. but this is how i design an enclosure for some one. i should also add that this was a sub up port back enclosure. "if your doing a box that is 5 cubes you take 16 x 5 which equals your port area. then you figure out how tall you want it to be. then you figure out the port height. i would say your going to want the box to be 17" tall then you minus the double baffle and the bottom plate. so 17-2.25 which equals 14.75 then you divide that by your port area. so (16 x 5)/14.75= 5.423728 so lets say your port will be 5.5 by 14.75. (this is for a sub up port back driver side box) then you type that into this calculator http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 (bottom half) so you type in 5 cubes square port, what you want your tuning to be say like 35 hz, make sure to check the slot port yes thing. then it gives you the number. so your port will be 14.75 tall by 5.5" wide by 25.5 long. ok you have your tuning done. now you just add your total port displacment with your sub displacment and then add the interior volume you want. so... 5+.15(sub displacement)+ [(14.75x6.25x25.5)/1728)]=6.50 cubes total interior. (rounded) you do the 6.25 wide because you need to incorperate the piece of wood that runs along side of it. so you then take your 6.5 x 1728 (1ft^3=1728^3in) and you get 11232 then divide by 14.75 because thats how tall your box will be on the inside, so you get 761.5 ish then you just decide how wide you want it or how deep you want it. dont forget this is internal volume. you need to accommodat the .75 wall thickness on each side of the box to fit where you want it to fit. so if you want the box to be 42 total outside then you minus 1.5 from that and then divide by that number. so say thats what you want the box to be width wise, divide 761.49/40.5=18.8 so your total interior dims are 14.75 tall by 40.5 wide by 18.8 deep. check all your math and times them numbers together and see how you came out. so 14.75x40.5x18.8=11230.65 then divide by 1728 and you get 6.4992187 very close to what you wanted! this is a good thing! now if you think you need bracing just go and get some 1"dia round wooden dowels and put one or two in there. also put corner pieces in the corners. dont need it but it helps. yes these do remove some volume. but not enough to change the tuning too much. now you build and enjoy the sweet sweet sound and poundage!" also i posted it here first.

I disagree with this statement. yes a little low but not low low. my BL take 1800 wrms daily and no issues at all so far. been at this for about 2-3 months now. before that it was getting 1500 wrms daily and only the full 1800 wrms for comps. i think it could handle a CLEAN signal 2000wrms. especially with how much imp rise you would have with a 15" sub. if you set the subsonic correctly the bl will take the 2000 wrms just fine i think.

have them cut it in half at the store then haul it. my little 2 door cavalier can hold alot of half sheets of mdf in the back seat (since there is no room in the trunk).

i would stick with the 2 10"s but get some better ones. like the Fi BL's or equivelent, and keep with the 35a fuse. if hes not afraid to pop a few for testing it out then just figure out the most you can draw with that fuse and get a very efficient amplifier. possibly run it at 4 ohms for efficiency to get more power. just have to figure out how to get more power with less amperage. the fuse thing is the one thing i dont like about meca, i mean you could have a 15" sub on about the same power as a 12" sub and be in the same class.... its extremely power biased and i dont like that.

like i said ive never used the program. so i dont know a damn thing about it. its just what ive come to think when people talk about the program. i wouldnt use it because i have a far superior program to tell me things that matter like how good the port flow will be, and true interior volume and so on. (Solidworks and Cosmos FTW) it does take a long time to do it tho, so i only do that kind of stuff for my self. also it just as easy to design a box by hand then to use a program. programs should only be used to find out how well the box will work, not to design it. all of this was my opinion and not fact.

ive heard some bad things about winisd. never used it personally so i dont know first hand just hear say. like the tuning and it telling how it will react in a vehical are off a bit. but like i said im not sure. basically to do a box design by hand you really only need SOME algebra skills. not much tho. its all basic math.

this and a piece of paper. the only real way to do it is by hand.

its weird there isnt a beta! thats whats weird! and i got it pre ordered yo!!!!! xbox 360 im phatone07

your tuned to almost 35 hz. like 34.75 hz. lol. port area is good. i would try to replace the "crappy" ply wood if possible. maybe brace it?

how much port area and you do know you have to take away for sub disp as well. so that brings your after disp to 1.3ish cubic feet. also effects tuning. probly tuned higher now like 35-36.