holley2346

I have a triple alt setup. I have 8 runs of 0 front to back and I have about .1-.2 voltage drop at full tilt when the note hits then it's right back to 14.4 as long as the note plays. I know where your coming from though, because I was worried about it too. We were planning a rack under the truck for other batteries, until we found in not necessary. And yes it is birch, I like working with birch MUCH better. It is also a lot lighter than mdf.

Finally got where I wanted to be audio wise after a few years. I have had lots of setups but like this one the most. It is the most musical substage (at low volume) I have had yet. I'd like to thank everyone for their help and knowledge along the way. Official TL score on the dash with all windows down 152.6 @ ~44 The subs are Fi BTLs

Mine didn't come with one either, but mine perform perfectly! I've seen some issues with customer service from DC but that is it. There products are outstanding and their customer service isn't bad MOST of the time. I have had 0 issues out of my alts and am glad I went with DC power. Just wanted to put in a good word. I'm running their 250 sp's in a triple configuration btw.

What were the circumstances? I get a lot of requests and can't remember which was yours. I'm not sure, I put in a request on your site about 4 weeks ago and never heard anything back.

Well I hate you couldn't help me out with a design I requested a few weeks ago! I got my design for my first box ever (for 2 bl 18's) from you a couple of years ago on the caraudio forum.

Recones aren't hard to do, and the n2's use the exact same soft parts as the previous BTL's. Good luck!

There are two things it could be here.... both have happened to me and just sound like a little rattling on high notes. That is *IF IT IS THE SUB 1.) Dust cap is coming loose and is vibrating, causing the sound you are hearing 2.) You have gassed the voice coil (by powering it incorrectly) and some windings are sliding off the bottom of the former (mine played for a few weeks like this). Case 1 you can get you some epoxy and get the dustcap back where it should be..... Case 2 you get to learn how to recone a subwoofer (super easy) If it's the dustcap it will eventually come completely off, in which case you'll just have to epoxy the entire thing back on.

I can completely see Chris saying that, but that's just Chris. I have delt with him a LOT.... many many phone calls and that's just the way he talks. He wasn't trying to offend you or actually piss you off. Love it or hate it, that's just Chris. He is GREAT at what he does and I will continue to do business with him regardless of how he talks. Just throwing in my opinion... I think he was just talking like usual.

I know we have different vehicles and such, but was just going to give you an example of what you could possibly do with other equipment (and probably do better since your cab is so square).... I had a single gen 2 BTL 18 in about a 6 ft^3 after all displacement box powered by a single sundown 3000D at 1 ohm and got a 147 playing music until there was a pause in the bass. No electrical upgrades except for 2 extra yellow tops, stock alt, one run of knu front to back.

I considered doing this but just don't want a crooked wall... I'm trying to draw up a clamshell since everyone I've asked doesn't do clamshells or walls. So I'm trying to figure this out myself. I even contacted a couple of paid box builders to no avail.

If you do designs I will gladly send a few bucks your way for throwing something together for me... if there is absolutely no possible way I will have to do a clamshell I guess. I would GREATLY appreciate it...

I hadn't even thought of this.... that's a great idea. I've just never designed a clamshell before.

48 wide 36.5 inches tall.... btl n2's. ill arrange em however I need too as long as I can get it set up right for a daily ground pounder setup that will be metered.

Shorten the port. That is the opposite problem everyone else has, although once you compute the area you actually need that will take care of it as well. Drivers, power, box size are all required to calculate port size. Then just pick a size that keeps the air velocity reasonable. Everyone misunderstood my question.... im limited on the width and heigth of my port. Using the maximum dimensions my port would have to be 1 inch deep to have reasonable tuning but that makes my sq in of port close to nothing..... But when I get my sq in of port correct the tuning is in the teens. square inches only applies to the width x height. Not the depth or this would be cubed inches. A general rule is 12-16 inches per cubic foot. My port is 6"h x 40"w = 240". Ohhhh okay I understand now... well looking at the picture what can I do? That's what I have to work with.

Shorten the port. That is the opposite problem everyone else has, although once you compute the area you actually need that will take care of it as well. Drivers, power, box size are all required to calculate port size. Then just pick a size that keeps the air velocity reasonable. Everyone misunderstood my question.... im limited on the width and heigth of my port. Using the maximum dimensions my port would have to be 1 inch deep to have reasonable tuning but that makes my sq in of port close to nothing..... But when I get my sq in of port correct the tuning is in the teens.

I am going the wall route and am in the designing stages to make sure everything is going to fit. The issue I am having is with my ports... I can get my tuning around 35 which is where I want it when there is only 4 inches ^2 of port per square inch but I know that is WAYYY low. When I get my ratio of port in^3 to box volume right my tuning ends up in the teens.... what can I do? The dimensions I'm going with are 48 inches wide, 36.5 inches tall, 33 inches front to back. I just need some help with tuning... this is going to be a daily heavily demoed setup. edit** and the port in this picture is 17x8 which is about as big as I'm going to be able to go. And this setup is for 4 18's. Thanks for the help!

dc power all the way!

There is nothing wrong with playing an n3 daily... no mechanical damage will occur from this type of use. They only listed it as a spl driver because the sound quality isn't good ib their eyes... but sound qualoty for the gen 2 was bad in their eyes too and I loved it. You have experience with the N3 then? No didn't think so, the motor force is too great for smooth response, which suggests SPL oriented. I agree with you though, I'll be running an N3 daily, that's just the way Fi wants the lines broken down. Not trying to start anything with you at all. This is just information I've gathered from talking to nick over the course of the past month. If I knew then what I knew now I would surely have n3s instead of n2s as I personally loved the intense response of my geb 2 btl

There is nothing wrong with playing an n3 daily... no mechanical damage will occur from this type of use. They only listed it as a spl driver because the sound quality isn't good ib their eyes... but sound qualoty for the gen 2 was bad in their eyes too and I loved it.

I've had both and I totally prefer the btl in every aspect and beat my btl daily for over two and half yaers and its still playing in the persons truck that I sold it to.

sure glad they helped you out with one even you admitted it was the amplifiers fault..... must be nice The whole objective of the thread was to get a recone whether they "helped" me or not. Things happen, amplifiers fail. This issue has been long resolved so an attempt at trying to be an ass is quite pointless. Fi has been extremely helpful with the whole situation over the past couple of weeks and after several calls with nick I feel more confident than ever running fi audio. Also - there is some extremely valuable information on this thread, thanks for all the info guys.

I want those gen 2 18's...... BAD Would you want to strait up trade my 2 brand new btl n2 18's with new recones for your 2 btl 18 gen 2's?

Hmmm I may consider it. With a show that large my chances of being competitive are little to none.

Not quite sure how confident I am in AQ's amplifiers. edit: Didn't specify their main stream amps... the AQ20 would seem to be a much sturdier and overbuilt amp after doing a lot of reading... that would likely be the only amp I'd be willing to purchase from AQ.