holley2346

Looking at the conditions I would expect something like this to be covered by Fi, considering that this is far from the only product I have purchased from you. But if for some reason it is not, there is not a place to order in the Recones section and I'd appreciate it if someone would contact me via phone / email. t - o - d - d dot h o l l e y at gmail dot com pm me for phone number. Any help is greatly appreciated

I've been a FI guy ever since my first Fi sub...... I've been in love and never have doubted Fi. That is until I got these gen 3 neo btl's.... the bass is far different compared to my gen 2 even in a very similar enclosure.... I don't feel like typing a long drawn out review at the moment but in general I am disappointed.... Secondly I beat on my gen 2 btl with a 3000D at 1 ohm for almost two years and was happy... I recently sold this setup so I could try out the neo's... Well tonight one of my subs started scraping.... took it out of the box and it ohmed out perfect. I then free aired it and it was apparent I had a problem... so after taking the moving assembly out of the basket this is what I found. These subs are brand new with less than 6 hours of playing time.... this sub was paired with another one, and both of them were getting their power from a 3000D... therefore their 2000 watt rms was not even likely met... Every time I try calling I get no answer, which is why I'm posting here.... Any help is appreciated.

Please pm me your direct number so I can call you around lunch. Its far from a simple single alternator setup. Thank you

This thread is inspirational.

VERY well put!! Now, for this particular question we have done a lot of testing so we have a good bit of experience.. That said, a 180 amp alternator in this car is going to give him about 120 "usable" amps over what he normally has, and with a couple of "good" batteries he should have plenty of adequate power under normal circumstances. The main thing to consider with a big amp like the 3500, is how is it going to be used. Is it in a daily driver that just bumps alot driving around, or is a comp vehicle. Kyles 3500 never pulled more than about ~100 amps at .5 on music at say 3/4 volume. On tones at .5 at high volumes, it may touch 180 BRIEFLY. In hours of testing, we NEVER saw over 200 AFTER we put a 270XP with a 15.1v regulator in it no matter how hard we pounded on it. Remember, music is dynamic and even though you may have a 3500W "RMS" amp, your dynamic load of the amp will almost NEVER exceed 70% of its rated power. If you calculate it to the letter for power consumption, 3500/15 15= 233 amps. 233/.8 (effiency) = 290 amp max power input required to make an actual 3500w of output power. Now, take 290*.6 (dynamic avg MAX current requirement on music) 174 Amps, which is the absolute MAX necessary for 3500 actual produced watts, which you will only see MAYBE 25% of the time. Will a bigger alt power it better, absolutely, no question about it. Will a 180 amp alt power it ok 90% of the time, no question... I'm trying to make sense of these numbers... I blew a 350 amp fuse with a 3000D at .5, at full tilt with 4 yellow tops the power wire from my alt was clamped putting out 170 amps of current and I still had voltage drop into the 11's on the amp inputs.... not doubting, just seeking information

I don't have room anywhere to add the to my front stage.... and they are deafening even playing from where they are currently located... I'm not worried about staging or sq, just to have plenty of fill... and they do this well. And tejcurrent - I will provide a full review upon further listening since I've only had around 2 hours of limited play time due to voltage issues.... I will say however I am disappointed for daily listening, I'd be more than happy to have the gen 2 motors... will explain in more detail in my full review.

I tried calling you today about it but no response. I finally got my VCM today after a couple of months and hooked it right up. My problem is that it tries to charge at 19 volts.... it won't let me adjust the voltage at all. I have quadrouple checked the dip switches and they are on the correct setting. My alternator uses an exciter I got from DC power to run... when I put the vcm harness in between it tries to charge at 19 volts and won't do anything else. The only thing it will do is go dim and bright and tell me voltage... it will go into voltage adjust mode (blinking decimal) but the voltage won't adjust up or down.... I've hit both up and down hundreds of time. So as of now I'm stuck with a 150 dollar voltmeter. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

My damaged 3000D comes back today, My VCM comes in today, another 250 SP is coming in Friday, and my tejcurrent triple bracket is supposed to be here Friday but he is waiting on a pulley for it.... I also have some knu 0 gauge that will come in friday or monday

Just as an update... I had some problems with my amp. This was due to a combination of low voltage and vibration. So to solve the voltage issue I am going triple alts, as well as doing the following; Before; After; And before anyone starts going on about mixing batteries.... they are all agm batteries with the same float voltage. The grey batts are 700 cca and over 100 AH. More updates to come.

Never got any stickers.... everyone thinks I have some off brand since my dust caps are blank. haha

Any update since its about the middle of january now?

I love my knukonceptz wire and rcas! But welding cable from weldingsupply.com is the real deal as well!

Im really leaning towards trick performance for my piping and turbo. Then nelson performance for the tune. Ill only run about 7 lbs until I build a forged motor.

2/3 drop would get the top of the front and rear tires about .5 inches from the fender well... I was really wanting to do it, but the amount of cutting I would have to do makes me think twice..... I appreciate all the compliments everyone. And whoever said something about not adding the chrome mirrors and trim and all that.... that's not my style.. I try to keep a good balance and not overdo any particular part.

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Forgot to add that I currently have the following audio components inside; Dual alt kit from DC power, soon to be triple alt kit Knu 0 Gauge 4 Optima Yellow Tops 2 Sundown Audio 3000D's (only using 1 at .5 ohm currently) 2 FI BTL N2 18'S Sundown 50.4 Q Logic Kick Panel Enclosures 2 Polk Audio Component Sets 4 Eminence APT horns 4 Selenium 6.5's AVH P4100DVD It sounds pretty good, I'm just ready for

I've been slowly changing things on my truck inside and out.... well here is the product after 2 years. Next I'm starting on the interior, after that will be forced induction. I'm uploading pics that were taken off of my phone just because it is easier to do.

I drive on 08 hoe.... you can install the alt yourself. It's 2 bolts and 2 electrical connections.. It won't void your warranty in any way but if your worried about it you can swap the oem back in whenever you go to the dealership. The real way to go is dual/triple alts. And FYI I had a 3000D at 1ohm on stock electrical with 2 yellow tops in the back for well over a year and never had any issues. Stock you have a ~140 amp alt I believe (I may be wrong... I never clamped mine).

I'm about 99% sure that they will have one.... but your not going to be able to maintain a certain voltage with the new technology that chevrolet uses to regulate their alternators...... I was forced to go dual... and soon triple alternators while keeping the stock alt connected to the stock electrical system, and wiring the dc power alts to my rear battery bank.

whats the email adress sir?

I recently received another 3000D for my setup... but it was damaged by ups. I am definitely not going to run this amp period until it is fixed, but I was wondering what the parts listed do and what the effects are if the amps are ran without these parts. Db-r said that the amp can play at low to moderate levels without side effects.... Just wondering what would happen. One of the main rail caps are missing along with one of the blue rectangular ones being half broken off.

I added this Then the UPS man came with two of this The motors looks like this The vibrations causes this Along with blowing the fi logo off I can't begin to tell you how ridiculous this setup is.... and it's only running with 1 3000D right now at .5 ohm(the other was damaged in shipping). I have ridiculous flex over my whole truck.... I even have grill flex and brake booster flex... It is beyond words. I should have it metered pretty soon... that will explain what words can not.

I dont know if anyone else is having this problem but the dustcap stickers fell off of my n2s after playing for a few minutes. I love the subs but id like to have my sexy fi logos on the subs too!

Could I possibly get an eta or update on this order? Thanks and merry christmas