ibanender

VERY well put!! Now, for this particular question we have done a lot of testing so we have a good bit of experience.. That said, a 180 amp alternator in this car is going to give him about 120 "usable" amps over what he normally has, and with a couple of "good" batteries he should have plenty of adequate power under normal circumstances. The main thing to consider with a big amp like the 3500, is how is it going to be used. Is it in a daily driver that just bumps alot driving around, or is a comp vehicle. Kyles 3500 never pulled more than about ~100 amps at .5 on music at say 3/4 volume. On tones at .5 at high volumes, it may touch 180 BRIEFLY. In hours of testing, we NEVER saw over 200 AFTER we put a 270XP with a 15.1v regulator in it no matter how hard we pounded on it. Remember, music is dynamic and even though you may have a 3500W "RMS" amp, your dynamic load of the amp will almost NEVER exceed 70% of its rated power. If you calculate it to the letter for power consumption, 3500/15 15= 233 amps. 233/.8 (effiency) = 290 amp max power input required to make an actual 3500w of output power. Now, take 290*.6 (dynamic avg MAX current requirement on music) 174 Amps, which is the absolute MAX necessary for 3500 actual produced watts, which you will only see MAYBE 25% of the time. Will a bigger alt power it better, absolutely, no question about it. Will a 180 amp alt power it ok 90% of the time, no question... I sorta agree with this, but not completely. Here's why: An SAZ-3500d is rated for 3500 watts. Does that mean it does 3500 watts? No. In actuality, you can get as much as 5400 clamped watts out of one under some conditions. There are conditions in a daily situation you can even get over 4000, and that DOES change your current draw by quite a bit. The same can go the other way. In the case of a Brutus 1600 watt RMS rated amp, the most we could actually get out of it was 954 watts. Above all that, you have to consider individual amp efficiency. Even if you're clamping 4000 watts between 3 different amps, current draw can vary quite a bit. Moral of the story, you're back to put equipment in and deal with it as needed.

You get partial credit. While your drop may have been 12.5 before, adding a battery may only drop to 13.0. Likely it won't be higher than float voltage on the batteries, whatever that number may be. However, where adding batteries DOES help is if you're dropping much lower. Say you were dropping to 11v, adding a battery may make your drop 12.6v. If you're doing something like Bass Race or Bass Boxing, you need storage to help maintain voltage. In my case, better batteries offer a more consistent testing session for burps. I dont have to charge as frequently and I can test burp after burp with little change.

They can be made to sound wonderful Just like with any sub, it just takes more effort and know-how.

From the thermal and assembly comparison to an SA, I'd definitely do an SA, outside of output or sound quality differences even.

I don't know that L7's ever held the crown outside of Bonerville.

Both ports will need to be 31" long for 1.6 cu. ft, that doesn't include displacement of the port. However, that's on the big side for that sub so I definitely wouldn't want more power than what's there, maybe even a little smaller box.

I hope the copyright nazi's don't get ahold of that.

I agree, SSD for sure. I'd never try to use an SDC2.5 outside of recommended power or anything without expecting it to die a quick death. SSD's are just better built and designed. I haven't done A/B testing between the two but I'd suspect the SSD will outperform in every aspect. In that price range for other options, Sundown SA12.

You probably remember me from other forums, I used to be more active on other forums. Now, not so much.

I forgot I was registered here, but was encouraged to post by someone who shall remain nameless, who I recently hung out with tipping (monetarily, not change of momentum and altitude) a midget Mr. T impersonator.

So I can have a pair of the 8's in my doors next week, right?

I agree that MDF is not layerd like plywood, but the resin created a top layer that seperated VERY easy. IN my case, When I routered my sub opening , drilled holes for my t-nuts, or added any screws through the MDF, the to top 1/8-1/16 of MDF was VERY brittle and DID INFACT seperate. The resin did soak in to the MDF 1/8-1/16 inch in my case. I DON"T compete SO I can't vouch for the DB gain but, I CAN agree that the fiberglass made the box peakier sounding SO i believe that would make higher DBs. I am no expert, and can only assume that alot of different factors go into each exsample. for exsample I store the MDF and resin near a heat source up to the minute I use it, maybe opening the MDF pores up some, plus the resin is VERY runny when warm. I will dis-agree that resin can be poped back off, The resin will take the top layer it created with it. If you are rating perforance by a meter, than maybe i could agree that nothing is lost. In everyday use I think nothing is gained from fiberglassing the inside of the enclosure, only money lost from using it. I think if the resin is whats sealing a box you should make better cuts or use wood glue. Like I said before if you are not competing than don't waste your time. IF YOU ARE COMPETING that all reasoning is out the window because you guys are INSANE with the things you will do to gain a little on the meter. SO I will admit that I have only done the one enclosure with resin, and am no expert on the subject, but will give my thoughts and ALSO want to hear about other peoples experiences on the matter. Please don't think I am arguing with you or acting like a know-it-all, As I am here to learn like everybody else. If resin absorbed in your MDF, you're using the crappy MDF. Yes, there are 2 grades of MDF, which is why I dont use it anymore. Every store stocks the MDF that sucks, is very flexible, and is typically 1-2 dB quieter. It breaks apart very easily too. I highly doubt resin is like Noxema, I don't see it opening pores. I didn't say you wouldn't take wood off with the fiberglass, but you also missed the part about it being super smooth. With any adhesion, a roughed up surface will adhere better. Wood glue does not fill gaps, so using glue will not fix a rough cut problem. Not everybody has a table saw (including myself) and they may not be able to make perfect cuts with a circular saw. Even so, people often use silicone or caulk to fill gaps. If you think fiberglass sounds more "peaky", you should judge SQ, because your psycho acoustics are taking over and everybody with expensive equipment will win. You would have to gain at least 1 dB at a given frequency to hear it AND what if your linearity isn't perfect and you gain that dB where you needed it. Wouldn't that make it sound better? Does it have its place in a daily application? Maybe, depends on the application and the builder. Does it have its place in SPL? It sure does.

I didn' t bother reading any posts but 1, and I had a request from somebody to post, so: FIberglass resin can't weaken layers of MDF. Why? MDF isn't layered, it's compressed saw dust. If it was layered, it would be called PLYWOOD, because the WOOD has PLYS. If you've ever actually fiberglassed MDF, you'd know that it doesn't absorb into it, certainly not 1/8". It sticks to the surface and that's it. If the MDF was sanded with 400 grit or higher sand paper, its possible you can actually pop off resin from the wood. If it "weakens" wood, wouldn't you ALWAYS lose performance? I've never lost from fiberglass. I've either stayed the same or gained as much as 2 dB, after doing it in probably 50 boxes. The only adverse effect is often a slightly higher impedance rise as a result of the box being sealed better, however, your efficiency also increases so it levels out. In terms of audibility, if somebody says they can hear it, you should punch them in the balls and then have them get their ears checked. That's as bad as saying they can hear <1% distortion in their sub amp.

I've got one BNIB for $500, with warranty that starts when you buy it. It's my last one.

Take 3 ft of wire on a direct connect sub, measure resistance. Take the same 3 ft of wire and put it on a sub with terminals, measure resistance. Get back to us and post the data. (That's my subtle way of saying go try something for yourself rather than spewing out things people tell you that sounds good.)

Don't worry, he'll soon go bipolar on you. Ya know, have a pleasant PM and try to drag you through the dirt where everybody can see it. Isn't it good to know that a simple reality check of who's who can really change a persons outlook?

haha...what up foooooo Call me sometime fool

I've never been one for introductions, but since it was never formally done.... LB, Marshall Marshall, LB

Yup. I just don't see the infatuation with wanting to modify production drivers. Some ideas may sound great in your head. I think the design engineer knows best though. . nG Yeah, you're right. I'm glad Fi doesn't offer any "options". dick. Do you also go by ibanender on splbassx? You guys would probably LOVE to get together and circle jerk. (he's ALMOST as big an ass as you.) Do you use the same username on ragingasshat.com? I'd hate for somebody with a clue to tell you your wrong, it might make you look like you didn't know it all. There is a reason you aren't designing subs, and we are.

So, when is that gonna end up being tested at my house? I have the power, I have the facility, you have directions.

You can go through one of my closets and build 2 or 3 computers, I'm sure I've got whats left.

Before finals as in I'll pay a little extra to get them earlier, call my honkey ass and we'll talk about it. I should be having a Mojo becoming available to me very soon, its just a matter of if it likes 0.5 DCR and my fusing.

Psssst.... I need a pair BEFORE finals so I can make changes as needed and have test time. I may be changing amps shortly too. The sooner I get them, the louder I get!

Might want to try and replace your monitor. It looks just fine on my monitor and a lot of other people's monitors. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> He could also try having the right video codec