ibanender

Assuming they were similar technologies, the 4 ohm would probably draw less current. However, in the mobile market, you aren't going to find a wide selection of 4 ohm class D, so you'd probably be comparing a Class A/B vs D which isn't a valid comparison.

You've already done your research to find what I was going to tell you. The Sundown amps are rated at 12v, not 14v. Something you really need to ask yourself here is; if the DD is built better, and does more power, why does he want to trade for what he feels is an inferior amp? He seems very eager to get rid of it. Wasn't it the M1 that had nearly every one of them go back for repair, only they weren't getting replacements back out to people for over 6 months? Those things were dieing like it was their job. I wouldn't exactly call that "bulletproof".

What's that gonna prove? The box volume ported will be too big for sealed, the alignment would be WAY off. The concept behind using a sealed box to find vehicle resonance works, sorta. You have to have the optimal sealed box volume to give a flat response (in open air anyway), you also have to have the speaker in the same position, firing the same way. Another factor I've found is the louder you get, the more the frequency can change. For the OP, more than likely the vehicle peak is a very strong 50 hz. I did a single 15 in one tuned to 32 hz and I would agree it seemed loudest around 45-50 hz. Another possibility is you may have mistakenly actually made your tuning higher when you built the box.

DC didn't get that memo. We can go back and forth day after day, but the only thing that will get proven is you know how to search google instead of creating your own images. It would also do nothing but turn this forum into caraudio.com

If your wood doesn't suck, screws do just as good of job

That is all.

Reading comprehension. I said high displacement low distortion drivers on the mainstream market. Either way, you are sidetracking the conversation, as usual. Your first sentence proves my point. Consumers dictate appropriate pricing for the market. JL can offer the driver for sale at whatever price they want. If the W7 were overpriced, it wouldn't sell. That simple. You didn't actually argue against this point, you simply tried to make up reasons of why it is so. You can argue why it sells all day long, but that's irrelevant. It's another one of your "I can't support my argument so I'm going to take the conversation in the direction I want it to go" tactics. The fact is, it does sell. Consumers find value in the W7 at it's available pricing. That is what's relevant. If it were overpriced, it wouldn't have sold much less been on the market at it's current price point for almost a decade. I find it very hard to believe that the only people purchasing this driver for a decade are uninformed marketing driven mindless drones. Are there some? Sure. But is that the entire customer base? No. Are there valid reasons for paying extra "for a name"? Yes. Is the W7 going to be for everyone? No. Is it expensive? Yes. But that doesn't mean it's overpriced. If it were overpriced, if consumers didn't see the value in the product at it's pricing level, it wouldn't have sold much less been sustainable in the market for almost a decade. That simple. You can't argue this point. You can argue why it sells (as you tried to do), you can argue it's price vs performance compared to competitors......but those are side arguments. The simple point is, consumers wouldn't buy it if they felt it were overpriced. JL priced it appropriately for the market. If you are not a buyer at it's pricing level, that's fine. You can have valid personal reasons for not purchasing a W7. Not everyone is going to see the value in the W7 at that pricing. And that is fine. But that does not make it overpriced. Second; I never said the W7 was the best or only driver in the market. I simply said it's not hype. They have been verified for a decade now to be well performing drivers. That simple. You can't argue this point. They are objectively good drivers. I did say "one of the first", which they were. There were not many drivers in the mainstream market that offered both that level of displacement and low distortion/linear BL. But this is again a side argument to the main point, so I don't want to linger on it (though I'm sure this is what you will focus on, rather than the main point, in an effort to make yourself feel "right"). The main point is that the W7 is an objectively well performing driver. So, you can either respond with something relevant to the conversation (which doesn't seem to fit your M.O.), or don't bother responding at all. I read the first line and didn't bother reading the rest because I had a thought. You know everything, everybody else is wrong, you're right, why waste time trying to educate or at the very least make you think? In regards do the first sentence, how are you measuring distortion? 10% distortion from a sub is not only common, but accepted as "clean" by the human ear. Again, how are YOU measuring distortion? Not on paper, not a lab test, YOU in a car, measuring it.

I think you're in a very odd area, because I haven't talked to anybody that doesn't have dark MDF. It's been made out that screws WEAKEN a box, which simply isn't the case. What's better than glue? Glue and screws, which is what I do, except on some boxes I'll glue and staple. Not only is it the best bond, it's way faster than clamps... no waiting. I don't see a need for clamps when screwing it. The screws pull it together, that's what screws do.

It's not just my location, it's many. I also get mine from Lowe's, and Home Depot has the same crap. It takes a sledgehammer to break apart boxes I do in MDF too, but that doesn't mean its as strong as what I use now. All the MDF that sucks is a darker color and when you pick up 1 side of it, you can see it bend. It's very soft. Even a low grade pine plywood works better, and high grade pine plywood works better. You think your MDF is fine, but between the dark MDF and the light MDF I've proven 1.5 dB difference. Oak and birch are even better than that, to the tune of over TWICE as strong. I know you think the MDF is great, but when you start building identical boxes out of different wood, you'll see what I'm talking about. How does injecting metal make anything with an enclosure weaker?

I see you also have the same problem with reading comprehension. It happens, it's ok. They weren't ahead for 7 years, they worked on it for 7 years before they released it. At time of release, they were behind. Of course, you would have known that had you actually read what I typed, because that is exactly what I typed. There were other high displacement drivers out there for 3 years before the W7 came out, so they weren't even "one of the first".

This is a guy in Brooklyn NY (I'm in SC) I sold some subs to last July. He's had some other people build stuff for him and hasn't been happy with it, so he sent it to me to do it. This is aimed at retarded daily and parking lot demo. In the NYC area it's becoming a trend of setups like in South America with a ton of PA drivers with obnoxiously loud mids/highs and bass trying to keep up. I agree. I'd never dealt with one till this one got delivered, I like it. I haven't driven it yet but I will after I load up the trunk to make sure everything is good to go before I send it back.

It's not overpriced. Economically if it were overpriced, it wouldn't sell. That's basic. But they do sell, and have for almost 10 years at their current price level. They are expensive, yes. But expensive and overpriced are not the same thing. Just because something is expensive, does not mean it's overpriced. And it's not "hype". They are very well performing drivers, and have been verified to be such for almost a decade. We could argue price vs performance and alternative options, but that's a separate matter. However it would probably not be the best subwoofer for this particular application. Which is also not related to it being either overpriced or "hype" Consumers dictate cost based on perception of value. JL had excellent marketing back in the day which has left name recognition now. The uninformed consumer equates big with good. Big motor, good, big surround, good, deep sub, good. Combine that with name recognition and people will pay whatever you want for them. JL prided themselves with 7 years of design that was ahead of it's time, and when it was released it was behind everybody else. That hasn't changed AT ALL over the last 10 years they've been sold. So why will people continue to buy it? The same reason Apple will continue to sell a POS for twice as much as a comparable product that works better, marketing and perception of value. They are overpriced for those who see the real value in them, not the status symbol in them. When I worked for a JL dealer and somebody came in and refused to have anything but JL and wanted a W7, we'd try to sell them a W6v2 because they were just as loud and sounded better. We'd only sell a W7 if they told us they were walking out of there with a W7.

Most MDF you find now is crap, so I'd double it up where you can, on any size box.

As was mentioned in the original post, 4 Neo-pro 8's and 4 Neo-pro 10's (1 in each door) along with some tweeters he's already got will make up the mids/highs. HU will be factory. When I post a pic of it, you'll see why, and he wants to retain factory navigation. He sent an alternator and regulator for me to put on also, I haven't looked to see what it is yet. I miiiiiiight have to put a second alt on there. Doing some math, we're looking at adding about 800 lbs to the trunk so I will likely also be doing some suspension mods.

We are confirmed for 4 Zv2 10's, 2 SAZ-3500d's, 1 SAX-200.4, and 8 Stinger SP1000 batteries for first round. Building of the subs has to happen before I get to posting more pics though.

Just an FYI, there isn't a drastic performance difference for a home audio application. As a matter of fact, I'm willing to bet you wouldn't see any difference in that application.

The problem with that is it will sound huge in the back seat, and not so much in the front seat. How do I know? I have a truck the SAME body style with a 12 ported in the console! My first console had sub downfiring with the port forward under the dash. It will do much better collectively if you do sub and port back.

I think there is a thread with the same question+answer. I use TrueRTA. Live feed of frequency info. He uses it because I use it. It's wonderful.

It's nearly the same motor, new frame and small soft part change for the cone to accommodate. The spider is very different though. So v.1s cant be reconed with v.2 frame and soft parts I don't have the specific numbers on hand, but the gap is larger on the V2 to accommodate a wider coil. So, you could do do the V1 motor and V1 coil on a V2 basket, spider, and cone. But in all reality, that just doesn't make sense, not worth your time when you could just get a V2.

Yeah, BTL is definitely the winner there. W7's when attempted to be used in "loud" applications do this thing called "breaking". That is of course after it's done not being loud.

Of a stock car with the trunk interior pieces removed? I'm building this in my free time and still in the planning stages. This is ALOT of stuff to cram in this car, so I'm figuring it out before I get equipment for it. yes sir. I love seeing the "before and after" pics of builds. Well, there's gonna be some of that when I get started. The door panels aren't stock as somebody else did some work on them, and I'm completely starting over. I'd rather not post pics of their work so it's not mistaken for mine.

Just a fun fact, you can order from me, should you choose to do so

It's nearly the same motor, new frame and small soft part change for the cone to accommodate. The spider is very different though.

Of a stock car with the trunk interior pieces removed? I'm building this in my free time and still in the planning stages. This is ALOT of stuff to cram in this car, so I'm figuring it out before I get equipment for it.

Are you sure a 15 would fit, width wise? Personally I'd swap your JBL's for a pair of SA's and call it a day. 1200 watts is pushing it for a single SA, thats the point it would be worth going to a Zv2. If you're wanting to go with a smaller box you could do a pair of SA8's for sure.