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ANeonRider

SSA Regular
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ANeonRider

  1. Im out to get smashed, later!
  2. I'm going to sand them as smooth as possible, then finish them with a very light stain. Might use a much darker stain on the baffle & footing though for contrast. 6 feet of tower for a 4.5" driver
  3. Pictures up on the Home Audio Project.
  4. Pictures!!! Still have to attach the one side, forgot my spray glue for attaching the polyfill inside the horn. The baffle I made Should have the fabrication complete on this one tomorrow, then have the finishing to do. Then get started on the other one.
  5. Started on the BIBs tonight. Modified the plans slightly. External Dimensions: 6.25"W x 7.25" D x 72" high Internal Dimensions: 4.75"W x 7.25" D x 60" high I have a foot of empty space to use as ballast on the bottom. Did this also to raise the driver to ear level (~4ft). L = 121.559" Sm = 34.4375 in^2 Vd = 2.423 ft^3 Zdriver = 24" A=B=C= 3.625" Unfortunately, I did not receive the drivers this week, have to wait until Monday now. I'll have pictures of the enclosures tomorrow when I glue them all together.
  6. I'd go with a single 12 Q, and tune to 30-32Hz. Well, really, I'd go tuned to 28Hz, but most people don't have the same preferences. What is this customer using for his front end?
  7. 1) Buy a quality amp 2) Budget for a quality enclosure & the appropriate wiring 3) Find a subwoofer that fits in the space you have. Sounds like he doesn't care how it sounds, just wants it to jiggle his balls. This means either extended throw or large amount of cone area I suggest spend the majority of the budget on something like the SAE-1000d, then pick up a pair of MAW-15s.
  8. Active = Only using electronic crossovers. Im not familiar with that "signal processor" link me if you want my opinion.
  9. Going to go play in the woodshop after work. Get my cuts done & ready for assembly.
  10. Toptastic
  11. I actually joined here the day I left I think, so that means 2.5 years.
  12. 3 years then, worth it.
  13. Acitve = using electronic crossovers. Front stage = an oxymoron referring to the drivers located to the front of the listener.
  14. Haven't posted in that hell hole for years now.
  15. 2 ways are too unless you use a prepackaged component set. Don't have enough channels of amplification to use some raw drivers.
  16. You want to add a midbass to the Alpine 3way? Might be best to just toss the midbass from that set then, go active & use a different midbass if that is your concern. But, you only have 2 channels of amplification, so that won't work. Frankly, unless you go active, you cannot just add parts to the Alpine set & use its passive. Passive crossovers are designed to match the components that come with them.
  17. Solid MDF baffle, since it will be pretty damn flat.
  18. Yes, 5ft^3 is big...
  19. ANeonRider replied to TreyE's topic in Newbie Sign IN
    If you are only here to use the classifieds, you won't be very welcome.
  20. Here are some horns http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=10834
  21. Unless of course you are throwing a block party, open the rear doors & let horns blow.
  22. Horns that could do midbass would be much too large to fit in a car.
  23. Just picked up two 4x8 sheets of 19mm maple. $120 later
  24. ANeonRider replied to the727kid's topic in General Fi
    A subwoofer will not blow a hole in the surround unless it was "helped" along.
  25. See project log link in my sig.

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